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Old 12-06-2017, 06:45 PM   #1
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Default Bp4w Built motor: Track Build

So this is my 1999 Miata in its current state:
So now that you have seen what my car looks like here are the details

Engine: Bp4w Power goals: 275-350 whp on 93
  • Supertech 84mm 9:1 pistons w/wiesco rings
  • Manley rods
  • Arp head studs and main studs
  • Light double valve springs
  • Msm intake Cam
  • Toda Cam gears
  • Gasket match port head
  • Skunk2 manifold
  • Skunk2 Throttle body
  • Fm manifold
  • gt2560r or gtx2860r haven't decided yet
  • Fm downpipes
  • DW 700cc injectors
  • DW fuel pump
  • Radium fuel rail
  • Fm intercooler
  • Diyautotune Ms3

Cooling Setup
  • Supermiata Coolant reroute
  • Track speed or springfield dyno radiator
  • singular hood vents
  • ducted radiator and intercooler
  • no A/c no ps
Drivetrain
  • 5 speed or 6 speed undecided but if a 6 speed comes up on craigslist i will pick it up
  • 4.1 T1 Torsen
  • Fm stage 2 clutch
  • Fm flywheel
Suspension
  • Fm Vmaxx- Track springs
  • Fm sway bars
  • 949 endlinks
  • poly bushings
  • Garage Star fender braces
Brakes
  • Nb sport calipers
  • centric blank rotors
  • hawk dtc-30 pads
  • stainless lines
  • singular ducts
Wheels and Tires
  • 15x9 jongbloed with Nt01 225/45 (street)
  • 15x9 Jongbloed with Sm7 (track)
Aero
  • Oem Hardtop
  • Rtherory v3 diffuser
  • Blackbird fabworx spoiler
  • Fender Cut
  • Side skirts
  • GV canards
  • Diy front splitter/ undertray
  • Bumper cut
​​​​​​​These are my plans as of now I will keep updating this as i put everything together
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:48 PM   #2
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Moar cats plz
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:54 PM   #3
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Moar cats plz
Sorry but i am a noob, please explain the cats part. i am very confused
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:09 AM   #4
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it's ok I got you covered photo208.jpg
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:58 AM   #5
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Beautiful car! Safe to assume this is the start of a build thread? Maybe have it moved to that sub forum by a mod?
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:01 AM   #6
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it's ok I got you covered
Surrogate kittens accepted
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:42 AM   #7
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All that turbo power sounds fun, but if this is a track car, then spend your money on suspension. I have tracked Vmaxx's and they are not that good on track. Go for XIDA's. I recently spent 4k on the newest and greatest XIDA ACE's. My car is mostly a street car, but I still went for the best. If you are building a track car that needs to go faster, you need real suspension before horsepower.
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:16 PM   #8
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Mods need to move this over to the build thread section.
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:24 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Chilicharger665 View Post
All that turbo power sounds fun, but if this is a track car, then spend your money on suspension. I have tracked Vmaxx's and they are not that good on track. Go for XIDA's. I recently spent 4k on the newest and greatest XIDA ACE's. My car is mostly a street car, but I still went for the best. If you are building a track car that needs to go faster, you need real suspension before horsepower.

^I disagree. If he already has somewhat stiff suspension with wide tires and a good alignment- money ($4k) spent on a turbo will make the car a lot faster.


In either case- nice car!
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:38 PM   #10
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^I disagree. If he already has somewhat stiff suspension with wide tires and a good alignment- money ($4k) spent on a turbo will make the car a lot faster.


In either case- nice car!
ah, no.

The VMAX track thing is 504/336 rates with 1" front, 5/8" rear bars. I assure you, real suspension would be worth 2s on a 2:00 road course. Not to mention more fun, easier to setup and learn driving technique.

I would start with 900/500 rates, 1.125 front, .562 rear bars. When he realized the error of his ways and installs 15x10 with 245's, I would up rates to 1100/500 and a 1.25" bar.

But that's just my opinion.
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Old 12-07-2017, 12:56 PM   #11
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ah, no.

The VMAX track thing is 504/336 rates with 1" front, 5/8" rear bars. I assure you, real suspension would be worth 2s on a 2:00 road course. Not to mention more fun, easier to setup and learn driving technique.

I would start with 900/500 rates, 1.125 front, .562 rear bars. When he realized the error of his ways and installs 15x10 with 245's, I would up rates to 1100/500 and a 1.25" bar.

But that's just my opinion.

wouldn't doubling or tripling the horsepower be worth more than 2s? Remember I went from vmaxx to xidas- and picked up time. I also went from NA to Rotrex and picked up wayyyyy more time.

I should have been more clear- going from $1000 dampers to $4000 dampers will not gain as much time per lap as going from NA to turbo.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:59 PM   #12
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wouldn't doubling or tripling the horsepower be worth more than 2s? Remember I went from vmaxx to xidas- and picked up time. I also went from NA to Rotrex and picked up wayyyyy more time.

I should have been more clear- going from $1000 dampers to $4000 dampers will not gain as much time per lap as going from NA to turbo.
I bought the vmaxx since i was on a budget, i know there are much better options out there but as for now I'm not looking to spend big money on just coilers, down the road i plan to do Xidas or maybe Penskes
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Old 12-07-2017, 05:04 PM   #13
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Yeah- I get that for sure. Vmaxx served me well in the past. Most people around here dislike them, but I had a very good overall experience for budget coilovers.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:12 PM   #14
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No one's going to point out the error of using the MSM intake cam on a FI build?
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:24 PM   #15
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No one's going to point out the error of using the MSM intake cam on a FI build?
What error do you perceive there to be, or have direct personal experience with?
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:35 PM   #16
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No one's going to point out the error of using the MSM intake cam on a FI build?
I mean... it'll help. The reason folks don't really do it is because it costs money while turning up the boost another psi is usually 'free'. I think it might have improvements that scale with boost, but there really haven't been any A/B tests that I've seen in an FI motor.
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:28 PM   #17
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Have you bought all the turbo stuff already?

why go with mediocre FM manifold/downpipe and a semi laggy 2860, when TSE EFR 6258 will meet your 275-350hp goals, be reliable on the track, and spool MUCH better than a 2860...

and the 2560 is great, but will top out an the lower end of your power goals.
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:34 PM   #18
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Have you bought all the turbo stuff already?

why go with mediocre FM manifold/downpipe and a semi laggy 2860, when TSE EFR 6258 will meet your 275-350hp goals, be reliable on the track, and spool MUCH better than a 2860...

and the 2560 is great, but will top out an the lower end of your power goals.
I have not yet bought any of the turbo parts, the Fm custom kit seemed to have almost everything i needed, but upon looking at price the TSE kit would cost about the same amount. I know the 2560 will top out somewhere around 275whp and i am full aware. Back to the TSE kit, is it basically: manifold, EFR, oil and water lines, downpipe? or is there more included with it
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:40 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bs_nb1 View Post
I have not yet bought any of the turbo parts, the Fm custom kit seemed to have almost everything i needed, but upon looking at price the TSE kit would cost about the same amount. I know the 2560 will top out somewhere around 275whp and i am full aware. Back to the TSE kit, is it basically: manifold, EFR, oil and water lines, downpipe? or is there more included with it
EFR kit is:

Turbo
cast manifold, much nicer than FM oid school design.
3" Vband downpipe vs 2.5" fm 5 bolt + 4 bolt
oil + water lines
Inconel manifold studs. <-- a must for track miatas. a $100 item from FM.

its pretty complete. just add your own intercooler, piping and BOV.
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Old 12-07-2017, 11:42 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by borka View Post
EFR kit is:

Turbo
cast manifold, much nicer than FM oid school design.
3" Vband downpipe vs 2.5" fm 5 bolt + 4 bolt
oil + water lines
Inconel manifold studs. <-- a must for track miatas. a $100 item from FM.

its pretty complete. just add your own intercooler, piping and BOV.
Wow never really considered that, The TSE kit seems like a pretty good deal, i was planning on using a no FM intercooler anyways so i will look more into the TSE kit as it seems like a better design and more bang for my buck
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