More questions time.

Because I can't get anything but an open end wrench on the three inside manifold nuts I can't torque it down to any specific value. Is it time to just use all the strength my girlish frame can muster?
Any specific torque values for turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe nuts?

On another note I bought a Dremel today to enlarge the bolt holes on my downpipe flange after two machine shops refused to work on stainless steel. Tungsten Carbide Cutting bit went through it like butter, and I have the microscopic steel splinters to prove it.

 

turbo onto manifold = torque it as much as you can.

Turbo to downpipe depends on what size bolts are used.

 

i wouldn't say as much as you can but tight, try to guess it to be as tight as the rest, retard strength only breaks things

 

It's not going to answer your root question but if you cut these three studs, you can get a full box on the nuts. iirc, I took off 3/16"+ and still have the entire nut threaded. Wrench has plenty of clearance. Measure everything, remove studs, cut, replace... open end ftl on these nuts.

 

Its exhaust, it doesnt need to be ultra super mega tight. Besides when you do bolt on the turbo to manifold or turbo to downpipe the bolts will just stop at a certain point.

 

I did mine by feel. All my might.....I would have snapped every stud. Only time I pull out a torque wrench (usually) is on wheels.

Vash-

 

I usally break out the torque wrench on any moving parts. Or really important like a roll bar.

 

IMO your roll bar should be welded in

 

cheater bar

 

if you're in a sittuation where your roll bar bolts won't get the job done, its already too late and you should have put in a cage.

 

I couldn't get the box end on the down pipe nuts. I rounded two of them. But it is tight.

I would be careful to watch for the nuts starting to round. Good luck.

 

And if you do put in a cage hopefully it is better than the one that we saw up at AA motorsports in VA today... wish i would've gotten some pictures but it was pretty sad. A toyota starlet with a full tube frame and 13B on alcohol...wrecked at 40MPH and cracked half the dam welds in the cage, crushed the cage and tore just about every suspension component in the car to hell. definetely should've gotten some pictures of that but im sure someone did, I know I saw Scott taking some of the motor/turbo.

 

i sugest the use of lockwashers if you are unsure good and tight should be fine so more than a spark pulg but less than a lug nut.

 

I torqued what could be reached to 30 lbs. and did the three middle studs by feel with an open end wrench. Then I spent five hours modifying the downpipe and my car to try to make it fit. Then I gave up for the day. I'm going to be super bummed if this **** doesn't fit. I think I might be able to get it fit but it might jack up the exhaust some.

 

Ease of assembly for me was heavily dependent upon clearance. The spot-welded seam on the side adjacent to the compressor and in the back by the DP got some serious massaging, even for my little turbo. Wrapped the sheetmetal in a couple rags and got out my monster channel locks and bent it out of the way. A little hammering to make a nice curve, then a die grinder to clean up the edge to make it look decent. It really surprised me how much easier it is to put it all together with just an additional 1/2-3/4" clearance.

Also, studs which are longer than necessary can make it quite a bit harder to assemble. I cut all the DP studs x5, all the turbo/mani studs x4, and the 3 middle studs in the head. Box wrench fits everything except 1 of the DP nuts, but that's OK cuz I do the turbo/DP nuts on the bench (turbo and DP come out as one unit). I'm pretty sure it's easier to jack the car up on driver's side, drop the cat and WB sensor and pull out the turbo/DP together than it is to back out all 5 DP nuts....

 

i've got the downpipe engaged on the turbine studs and the downpipe engaged on the cat. It's a matter of will both those flages line up properly. And they may but it might make the exhaust sit in a manner that rattles on the ppf. I gotta think this must be the reason they moved to larger studs on the turbine exit. With the fitment the way it is it looks like the downpipe is going to put a lot of stress on those studs.

 

What's a torque wrench?

All I know about is tight, tighter, and tightest.

 

So I got the downpipe on the turbo and the cat. My next question is how the **** do I tighten the lower turbine inlet nut closest to the firewall? Wrench will not turn on it because of the turbine housing on two sides. I know I'm going to have to buy a new wrench, but any suggestions as to which. Looks like I'll have to grind the open ends of the wrench down as well. Tips?

 

I had to turn the wrench pointed to the bottom, while reaching from the top.

 

that's how I'm attacking it as well and i have the room to swing the wrench. The problem is the head is stopped from turning by the turbine housing itself.