I've got an older FM kit that I'm installing. Going over the old instructions supplied (revision 1.0) and it never mentions slotting the frame rail, just that some cars may require loosening a motor mount and lifting the engine for clearance.

I get on FM's website and it looks like they recommend it now.

So I'm just wondering if it's because of a change in the new kits or if I can actually get by without slotting the rail with my old turbo/manifold?

I tried installing it and am thinking slotting is the way to go. Thanks!

 

You can also clock the turbo inboard, slip the manifold and turbo on and then reclock the turbo.

 

I slotted mine and didn't really need to with a GT2554. With a larger turbo it is probably good insurance, last thing I'd want to deal with is contact because the engine rocks.

BEGI also suggests massaging that same spot with hammer.

 

It wouldn't matter which way I clocked my T25. The body of the compressor housing will touch the frame-rail unless I jack the motor up about 1.5". I can't take the turbo off the manifold or remove the manifold w/turbo attached unless I raise the engine.

When I do need to take things off, I like to take the mani/turbo/DP off as a unit. Removing/installing the manifold nuts is a helluva lot easier than reinstalling all 9 nuts on the housings. Plus with all that **** out of the way, it makes cleaning a snap.

 

I messed around with it some more this morning and suprisingly I was able to coax it all in there by loosening the EGR tube from the intake manifold. When it sits flush against the head there appears to be an adequate amount of space to allow the motor to torque without hitting the frame rail.

Thanks guys.

 

Good luck reattaching the EGR tube now. The most stubborn POS ever.

I had to attach the EGR to the exhaust manifold and then wrestle the manifold onto the engine. It was the only way I could get it to work. With all my strength I could not bend the EGR tube to do what I wanted so I just let the manifold do the work for me.

 

Yes the EGR tube is a motherfreak... I had to do the same thing, leave it attached to the exhaust manifold coming out and going in.

 

Greeeeat.

Well I'm thinking about taking the turbo/manifold out again. Realized what a PITA it was I'm going to get some hard lines so I won't have to replace the silicone lines from heat damage ever again.

That and the heater hose is touching the downpipe. :-\

 

The slot in the frame rail was required when we reclocked the turbo on the new kits. The old ones shouldn't need it unless you're running a turbo bigger than the typical GT2560R.

 

Thanks Keith, that's comforting info to know.

As far as the heater hose touching, I installed and removed the turbo/manifold about 6 times trying to trim so I could trim and bend and do whatever it takes to prevent it. I ended up trimming a tad too much and will have to get another hose.

Probably should've gotten one from the dealer instead of the generic trim to fit autozone ones. Hopefully it'll work.