target autotune doesn't require the WBO2 to have a gauge though. my hydra's got WB02 but I have no gauge. couldn't get one if I wanted to anyway, friggin hydra.

 

Can you not get one of your 2 thousand extra outputs to produce voltage based on lamda, then hook it up to a nb gauge?

 

Assuming an Innovate LC-1, the G2 / G3 gauges can be had for $99.

One could also rescale the output of any sensor controller (in software for an LC-1, or with an op-amp and divider for anything else) to produce a linear 0-1 volt output that would permit the use of a cheap NB gauge as a "reasonably accurate" wideband display.

 

that's what I'm going to do actually. I have a splitsecond 0-1V narrowband gauge that I'm going to use and create an AFR output map in the hydra.

some day.

it's just a 2D map of voltage but 2d maps in the nemesis software don't have actual units of anything in the ordinate and abscissa. I have to *guess* what they are. or measure them. or something. i have no way to correlate the values to real AFR though since I can't get a) steady state AFR or b) logged data on the 2D outputs.

I'll figger it out.

 

Not necessarily. I've blown an oil filter seal and the gauge saved my engine.


If it's really 1600. I've never found a thermocouple that was actually accurate. If you have a digital gauge you can calibrate them. But most people don't even know how to install them correctly and use too many- or too few- cold juntions for the particular thermocouple. With EGTs you're looking more for behavior of the needle, not a maximum value. In my case, I'll never waste my money on one again.

 

I run both... and a more accurate water temp gauge.

But hell, how do you know *any* gauge is accurate? My EGT is a complete unit... I didn't jury rig a thermocouple, I use the Defi sensor with its appropriate gauge. I honestly dont look at it much. I do occasionally on the track and definitely did on the dyno.

I bet Braineack would have been able to figure out his cat was clogged with one.