Originally Posted by crono36
(Post 819692)
Thanks guys... he's actually already on it for me :)
What size dp did you go for? Does it make any sense to get a 3" dp if you have a 2.5" exhaust? What type of CAT do you run to fit up to a 3" dp? |
Originally Posted by Cxracer
(Post 837856)
What size dp did you go for? Does it make any sense to get a 3" dp if you have a 2.5" exhaust?
If you're not planning on upgrading any time soon, I wouldn't. I believe to see any performance, exhaust has to be opened from the tip back. Opening it up and then restricting it doesn't help. I could be wrong though. |
So what cat or test pipe are you running to match your 3" down pipe to your 2.5" exhaust?
Also, what did Abe quote you for turnaround time? |
I'm getting a 2.5 setup to go with my ebay tsudo exhaust. I'm having an exhaust shop weld in a 2.5 pipe where the first resonator is so that it's 2.5 the whole way through.
I sent him a 2.5 cat which he's going to weld in place to meet up with the rest of the exhaust. I think he quoted a 7 week turnaround, he just notified me that my parts should be ready soon. -Stan |
I'm bolting my old 2.5" exhaust to my 3" dp since I plan on upgrading eventually. I'm not sure I'd want to run that abrupt transition long term.
The same flange will work for a 2.5" and 3", it's just a bigger hole. He quoted me 6 weeks, and he says that's what he tells everyone just to be safe. |
4 Attachment(s)
A preview of the goodness:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1330029409 The cat will be held onto the dp using a lap joint. I'll post pics once installed as well. |
Crono, when you get it on, can you post a spool comparison for us?
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I don't have numbers for the stock greddy part, since I ran it with bandaids and never tuned it. I'll post up an RPM/boost graph once I have the MS dialed in on the new setup though.
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Have Artech GReddy manifold and Turbo Tony DP. Would have gone Artech underslung mani and straight out 2.5" DP had I known about Abe at the time. Absolute gent to deal.
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Originally Posted by crono36
(Post 840809)
I don't have numbers for the stock greddy part, since I ran it with bandaids and never tuned it. I'll post up an RPM/boost graph once I have the MS dialed in on the new setup though.
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Well after going back and forth on how to make a 3" DP work with my 2.5" cat and exhaust, I decided to bite the bullet and go all the way to getting a full 3" DP, cat, and exhaust from ARTech.
He has a lot of work on his hands so in the mean time I'm having him modify my 1.6 FM cat to a 2.5" inlet so I can use my 2.5" system for now. If I get a chance to dyno that before I switch to the 3" set up, I'll post some numbers. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 840953)
We can compare. I'm coming from a greddy manifold+2.5" dp to a bottom mount artech unit, similar sized sr20, and a 3" DP with 2.5" exhaust.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 809300)
Beg to differ. Fire sleeve is meant to impart fire resistance to lines carrying combustibles. It offers resistance to conductive heat transfer. In addition, the silicone rubber coating dissipates the heat of a fire by ablating. That said, it offers almost no resistance to radiative heat transfer.
If you want to make parts that are near the turbo and downpipe live a while, you've got to fight off the radiation (look at your turbo in the dark after a hard run and you'll see what I mean). The "macrame silver foil cloth stuff" is the right tool for that job. |
Originally Posted by Cxracer
(Post 842729)
I'm curious, why did you end up changing to an SR20 turbo from your GReddy?
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My dp and cat should be here in about 6 weeks :)
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got mine in last week- hopefully i'll be able to install tomorrow.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 809300)
Beg to differ. Fire sleeve is meant to impart fire resistance to lines carrying combustibles. It offers resistance to conductive heat transfer. In addition, the silicone rubber coating dissipates the heat of a fire by ablating. That said, it offers almost no resistance to radiative heat transfer.
If you want to make parts that are near the turbo and downpipe live a while, you've got to fight off the radiation (look at your turbo in the dark after a hard run and you'll see what I mean). The "macrame silver foil cloth stuff" is the right tool for that job. |
It's very helpful, just not if you're looking to lower radiant heat. That's where vents and heat shields come into play.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 842817)
So I can more easily upgrade down the line to a larger turbo, it also makes the mani/dp setup have a higher resale. Hopefully. They are nearly identical in size/power capabilities.
California sucks for doing fun things to your car! If they truly just want clean air then everything should be based on what comes out of the tailpipe and don't worry about what I have under the hood. (I'm sure a million people have said this.) Done ranting. |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by tasty danish
(Post 843497)
Just to clarify this, so the wrinkley looking fire-sleeve does nothing to help part longevity and it's sole purpose is to stave off fire? Which makes it pretty important in an aviation application, but somewhat less so for automotive?
It doesn't actually look like the wrap they show on the website. It is basically a tube with orange silicone around a braded soft fiberglass sock. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1331058960 In the end my braded hose is no where near the manifold so I didn't use the Firesleeve. However, I was thinking it would be good to put over the heater hoses that run so close to the DP. I could see why the thin foil could be good to protect them by reflecting back the heat but it seams like this Firesleeve could act like a silicon oven mitt and insolate the hoses from the extra heat? It's pretty expensive so I'll return it if it isn't going to help protect the hoses from external heat. |
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