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Old 02-21-2012, 11:58 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by crono36 View Post
Thanks guys... he's actually already on it for me
I'm thinking to go the same way. I am actually just now installing my Greddy kit and I have a FM 2.5" turbo exhaust. Currently I'm stuck because the aftermarket dp I have is 2.5" but it won't fit up to the 1.8L FM cat I have.

What size dp did you go for? Does it make any sense to get a 3" dp if you have a 2.5" exhaust?

What type of CAT do you run to fit up to a 3" dp?
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:29 PM   #22
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What size dp did you go for? Does it make any sense to get a 3" dp if you have a 2.5" exhaust?
It doesn't hurt if you're buying a DP already. With the DP I'm having Abe make me I'm going 3" since it's the same price and I can eventually upgrade to one of the many 3" exhausts.

If you're not planning on upgrading any time soon, I wouldn't. I believe to see any performance, exhaust has to be opened from the tip back. Opening it up and then restricting it doesn't help. I could be wrong though.
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:14 AM   #23
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So what cat or test pipe are you running to match your 3" down pipe to your 2.5" exhaust?

Also, what did Abe quote you for turnaround time?
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:55 AM   #24
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I'm getting a 2.5 setup to go with my ebay tsudo exhaust. I'm having an exhaust shop weld in a 2.5 pipe where the first resonator is so that it's 2.5 the whole way through.

I sent him a 2.5 cat which he's going to weld in place to meet up with the rest of the exhaust. I think he quoted a 7 week turnaround, he just notified me that my parts should be ready soon.

-Stan
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:11 AM   #25
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I'm bolting my old 2.5" exhaust to my 3" dp since I plan on upgrading eventually. I'm not sure I'd want to run that abrupt transition long term.

The same flange will work for a 2.5" and 3", it's just a bigger hole.

He quoted me 6 weeks, and he says that's what he tells everyone just to be safe.
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:36 PM   #26
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A preview of the goodness:









The cat will be held onto the dp using a lap joint. I'll post pics once installed as well.
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Old 02-27-2012, 09:01 PM   #27
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Crono, when you get it on, can you post a spool comparison for us?
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:12 AM   #28
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I don't have numbers for the stock greddy part, since I ran it with bandaids and never tuned it. I'll post up an RPM/boost graph once I have the MS dialed in on the new setup though.
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:17 AM   #29
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Have Artech GReddy manifold and Turbo Tony DP. Would have gone Artech underslung mani and straight out 2.5" DP had I known about Abe at the time. Absolute gent to deal.
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crono36 View Post
I don't have numbers for the stock greddy part, since I ran it with bandaids and never tuned it. I'll post up an RPM/boost graph once I have the MS dialed in on the new setup though.
We can compare. I'm coming from a greddy manifold+2.5" dp to a bottom mount artech unit, similar sized sr20, and a 3" DP with 2.5" exhaust.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:09 PM   #31
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Well after going back and forth on how to make a 3" DP work with my 2.5" cat and exhaust, I decided to bite the bullet and go all the way to getting a full 3" DP, cat, and exhaust from ARTech.

He has a lot of work on his hands so in the mean time I'm having him modify my 1.6 FM cat to a 2.5" inlet so I can use my 2.5" system for now. If I get a chance to dyno that before I switch to the 3" set up, I'll post some numbers.
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Old 03-03-2012, 02:07 PM   #32
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We can compare. I'm coming from a greddy manifold+2.5" dp to a bottom mount artech unit, similar sized sr20, and a 3" DP with 2.5" exhaust.
I'm curious, why did you end up changing to an SR20 turbo from your GReddy?
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Old 03-03-2012, 04:20 PM   #33
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Beg to differ. Fire sleeve is meant to impart fire resistance to lines carrying combustibles. It offers resistance to conductive heat transfer. In addition, the silicone rubber coating dissipates the heat of a fire by ablating. That said, it offers almost no resistance to radiative heat transfer.

If you want to make parts that are near the turbo and downpipe live a while, you've got to fight off the radiation (look at your turbo in the dark after a hard run and you'll see what I mean). The "macrame silver foil cloth stuff" is the right tool for that job.
Owned...again. I guess I'm going to do the foil macrame on my car too. This forum rules.
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:09 PM   #34
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I'm curious, why did you end up changing to an SR20 turbo from your GReddy?
So I can more easily upgrade down the line to a larger turbo, it also makes the mani/dp setup have a higher resale. Hopefully. They are nearly identical in size/power capabilities.
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Old 03-03-2012, 11:13 PM   #35
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My dp and cat should be here in about 6 weeks
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:30 AM   #36
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got mine in last week- hopefully i'll be able to install tomorrow.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:12 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Beg to differ. Fire sleeve is meant to impart fire resistance to lines carrying combustibles. It offers resistance to conductive heat transfer. In addition, the silicone rubber coating dissipates the heat of a fire by ablating. That said, it offers almost no resistance to radiative heat transfer.

If you want to make parts that are near the turbo and downpipe live a while, you've got to fight off the radiation (look at your turbo in the dark after a hard run and you'll see what I mean). The "macrame silver foil cloth stuff" is the right tool for that job.
Just to clarify this, so the wrinkley looking fire-sleeve does nothing to help part longevity and it's sole purpose is to stave off fire? Which makes it pretty important in an aviation application, but somewhat less so for automotive?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:57 PM   #38
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It's very helpful, just not if you're looking to lower radiant heat. That's where vents and heat shields come into play.
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:50 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by curly View Post
So I can more easily upgrade down the line to a larger turbo, it also makes the mani/dp setup have a higher resale. Hopefully. They are nearly identical in size/power capabilities.
Ah, makes sense. Wish I could do the same but I'm try to keep my car CARB legal (well in the sense that I can remove a bunch of stuff and go down to the stock kit every 2 years when I have to do a smog check)

California sucks for doing fun things to your car! If they truly just want clean air then everything should be based on what comes out of the tailpipe and don't worry about what I have under the hood. (I'm sure a million people have said this.) Done ranting.
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:36 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by tasty danish View Post
Just to clarify this, so the wrinkley looking fire-sleeve does nothing to help part longevity and it's sole purpose is to stave off fire? Which makes it pretty important in an aviation application, but somewhat less so for automotive?
I'm also a bit confused about this as well. My friend used a standard oil hose to the hole he tapped in his pan and it split during a track day from being to close to the manifold and started leaking. When I went to the high end plumming supply place to get my braded stainless hose and AN fittings for my oil drain line I was worried about the same issue so I asked them what I could use for heat protection. They gave me hose cover called Firesleeve from Parker http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...=FS-F-14&Wtky=

It doesn't actually look like the wrap they show on the website. It is basically a tube with orange silicone around a braded soft fiberglass sock.

In the end my braded hose is no where near the manifold so I didn't use the Firesleeve. However, I was thinking it would be good to put over the heater hoses that run so close to the DP. I could see why the thin foil could be good to protect them by reflecting back the heat but it seams like this Firesleeve could act like a silicon oven mitt and insolate the hoses from the extra heat?

It's pretty expensive so I'll return it if it isn't going to help protect the hoses from external heat.
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