Did a quick search and all I found was some talk of hammering the Greddy oil drain straight.

Are there any good drain fitting options out there that bolt up to the Greddy supplied turbo which straighten out the drain path?

I've considered to cutting it down, but the thought of running sans pipe bead frightens me.

Tapping for an AN fitting is option as well, but I'd prefer a bolt on option.


-Zach

 

Nothing to bolt on. The only *factory* return is the one on the opposite side of the motor, which is way too far. Removing the oil pan is a major hassle as well, so really tapping is your only option. I had a -10AN line welded onto my pan, but the motor was out of the car.

 

I put a really nice oil drain kit from TunerToys on my greddy car. That will remove the hard pipe and bring the oil straight down to the pan instead of all the way around the motor. I'm sure you can find some pictures if you search for it. It was about $40.

 

I think the guy is referring to the drain fitting on the turbo and not the oil pan tap.

 

Ahh sorry, I see what you're looking for. You can get something like this and just drill out the mounting holes so that they fit:
Vibrant Performance ::.

 

This correct. I avoided drilling the pan when I first turbo'd the car simply out of laziness, however, now that the PS and AC are out I have no excuse.

I am just looking to ditch the 45 off the turbo. I just wanted to see what options people were using before I started drilling.

How 'off' is the Vibrant T3 fitting? I'd just soon machine a fitting that fits correctly than dick around making something fit which isn't designed to.

-Zach

 

I ran the stock oil drain return on the other side of the motor for over 10,000 miles, that said, it was starting to get a little worn in some places. I went ahead and tapped the pan with a hose barb the same size as the stock drain line. The pan had to be pulled due it being such a large fitting and that activated the curse of an unstoppable oil leak.

When I tapped the pan, I used a hacksaw and cut the drain fitting so that there were only maybe 1 inch of the drain fitting remaining. This allowed the drain hose to make a more gradual turn towards the oil pan without kinking to avoid the frame rail. I wrapped some heat-reflecting blanket around the rubber hose and used a worm clamp over that to secure the hose onto the fitting, no bead added. With that, it lasted another 5,000 miles up until I pulled the motor to upgrade to the 2.0L motor.

 

A GT25 drain flange fits, 38mm bolt spacing IIRC. I can sell you the kit if interested.

 

The solution I was referring to addresses both, and solves all the inadequacies of the stock set up. It also will allow you to clock the compressor down.

 

I was referring to the post above yours

 

I used something like this off of ebay, replaced the OE barb altogether. Then attached various brass unions/adapters till it was far from the turbo and ended with it with a hose barb.

 

^ +1 I did the same thing, I use an -8AN

 

thanks for the input guys.

I already had the pan fitting and the silicon hose. All I needed was a fitting off the turbo and thanks to Abe's input, I found myself a nice machined 5deg nipple for a GT25 which will work perfectly.

-zach

 

Pictures of this setup?

 

What fitting and oil line do you using on the oil pan to that oil drain flange(-8 AN male) ?
Thx

 

b532ba8c.jpg

-8an = 1/2 npt

Theres a conversion chart on wikipedia if you look up "AN Thread."

 

sweet
Thank you so much !