older flying miata turbo kits
#3
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,027
Total Cats: 6,592
While I'm no expert on the subject, to the best of my knowledge there have only been two significant generations of FM turbo system.
The first was actually the old Bell turbo system, as FM was the sole-source reseller for Bell prior to somewhere around 2007 or so (my memory is hazy here). The first-gen Bell turbo systems were typically sold with the Link engine management.
After the Bell / FM split, FM designed their own system, which is essentially the same as what they sell today. There have been some revisions to the downpipe / elbow, but they've kept everything compatible and interchangeable.
Neither of these systems, so far as I know, have any serious history of chronic problems insofar as the hardware is concerned. I've heard of some problems with the Link system on the NBs (specifically related to the mechanical reliability of the rail and fuel supply for the secondary injectors) however this is a fairly minor point, and not relevant if you intend to use any EMS other than the Link piggyback (or if you have an NA.)
The first was actually the old Bell turbo system, as FM was the sole-source reseller for Bell prior to somewhere around 2007 or so (my memory is hazy here). The first-gen Bell turbo systems were typically sold with the Link engine management.
After the Bell / FM split, FM designed their own system, which is essentially the same as what they sell today. There have been some revisions to the downpipe / elbow, but they've kept everything compatible and interchangeable.
Neither of these systems, so far as I know, have any serious history of chronic problems insofar as the hardware is concerned. I've heard of some problems with the Link system on the NBs (specifically related to the mechanical reliability of the rail and fuel supply for the secondary injectors) however this is a fairly minor point, and not relevant if you intend to use any EMS other than the Link piggyback (or if you have an NA.)
#4
I'm mid-stroke on upgrading from the old FM system to the newer setup on an NB. Joe is right, the Link piggyback is a huge piece of crap. Steer clear of it. The second issue with the old system is the original bypass valve is notoriously unreliable (straight from FM). Other than some really funky IC routing, it's a pretty good kit.
I upgraded to the new IC and routing. The significant issue (which I think is the cause of my now blown motor) is the wastegate actuator bracket. When I mounted the new bracket to the turbo, I had to stretch the WGA rod to reach the wastegate. I *think* this caused an overboost (everything was set to 6psi) that the Link couldn't save.
I upgraded to the new IC and routing. The significant issue (which I think is the cause of my now blown motor) is the wastegate actuator bracket. When I mounted the new bracket to the turbo, I had to stretch the WGA rod to reach the wastegate. I *think* this caused an overboost (everything was set to 6psi) that the Link couldn't save.
#7
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,189
Total Cats: 1,135
99-00 voodoo kits, completely brand new from FM are $3k. I'd say a used unit should stay in the $1k range. Things to consider are that every part listed on FM's site is still included, is there any rust? What condition is the turbo in? Is the intercooler beat up?
If you can get any pictures it would really help us. Just saying you have a "used" kit doesn't tell us much.
If you can get any pictures it would really help us. Just saying you have a "used" kit doesn't tell us much.
#9
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
I upgraded to the new IC and routing. The significant issue (which I think is the cause of my now blown motor) is the wastegate actuator bracket. When I mounted the new bracket to the turbo, I had to stretch the WGA rod to reach the wastegate. I *think* this caused an overboost (everything was set to 6psi) that the Link couldn't save.
I had to port a channel to the wastegate hole. I think mine was set to 6psi and i was spiking past 15.
FM says to add restrictions to the exhaust, which is stupid.
#10
I will definitely address this before slapping it back together. I'm also moving to an MS2 w/ ID1000's, so I should be ok when it overboosts. Granted, that won't help when I revert to "emissions testing mode".
#11
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Once you port out the channel on the hot side, the wastegate opening half way will be plenty.
Make sure you take out the washers too. They don't need to be there, and once they are removed you'll see 10ish wastegate psi. Then you can control from there.
I can't find a picture of my port at work, i'm sure someone has one.
/threadjacked
Make sure you take out the washers too. They don't need to be there, and once they are removed you'll see 10ish wastegate psi. Then you can control from there.
I can't find a picture of my port at work, i'm sure someone has one.
/threadjacked
#13
Here's a few pics when I did mine last month:
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...stegate-69813/
Right now it has the stock amount of washers that FM puts on the bracket, and it holds 9-9.3 psi under all conditions I've thrown at it (all gears, ~35 degrees ambient is the coldest temps I've had it in) running a full 3" downpipe/exhaust.
I think I'm going to try taking out one layer of washers, as long as it's still holding some tension on the wastegate actuator I think it'll do fine, and hopefully will bring it down to ~7.5-8psi. From there I'll control boost via EBC.
https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...stegate-69813/
Right now it has the stock amount of washers that FM puts on the bracket, and it holds 9-9.3 psi under all conditions I've thrown at it (all gears, ~35 degrees ambient is the coldest temps I've had it in) running a full 3" downpipe/exhaust.
I think I'm going to try taking out one layer of washers, as long as it's still holding some tension on the wastegate actuator I think it'll do fine, and hopefully will bring it down to ~7.5-8psi. From there I'll control boost via EBC.
#14
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
I guess we're not getting off topic, this is all relevant.
Here's what mine looked like. I did a complete port / polish of my entire manifold, turbo, and cast turndown.
No one ever posts before shots, so i'll include that too.
I mean, you can only reach in so far, so that's all that got done.
Here's what mine looked like. I did a complete port / polish of my entire manifold, turbo, and cast turndown.
No one ever posts before shots, so i'll include that too.
I mean, you can only reach in so far, so that's all that got done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Andifer
Miata parts for sale/trade
8
09-23-2015 05:43 PM