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Old 09-07-2008, 12:38 PM   #21
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one question -- why not keep linux, and just use wine for megatune? or try megatunix, which is megatune built for linux.

i guess im just a linux guy, cant understand why i would move back to windows...ever.
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:03 PM   #22
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I tried both Megatune and Megatunix(if you look at the photos you can see Megatunix running)before deciding but since I have zero Linux experience the Windows was the...obvious choice. The NLited version of XP SP2 works very well(boot times are very good)and both Megatune and Megatunix work great!
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:42 PM   #23
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My turbo install started and everything went well(pics will follow) until a problem appeared. The kit is a Begi-S kit and the turbo is a Garret GT2554 and the water and oil lines are the simple rubber ones and not the SS braided lines.

From what I understand the turbo came clocked from Begi since with the turbo mounted on the manifold the oil drain flange points as it should and the compressor points straight up but...the only possible way to get the oil feed/inlet fitting to the center section is by removing one screw that holds the wastegate bracket(and the center section to the turbine housing)and if the feed is in place there is no possible way to get the screw back in.



Also on top a hose barb fitting(90 degrees bend)should be placed and that is impossible to get with the wastegate bracket there...

What should I do? Should i 'clock' my center section(that still doesn't look like a solution to my problem)?

Any quick answer will be greatly appreciated since the car should be in a working state as soon as possible...Thanks a lot in advance.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:42 PM   #24
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Although on my car, by FM, I just messed with it till I learned a series of tricks for getting everything apart.... I would say your BEST bet is to email stephanie/corky - they are very helpful, and should know the kit intimately!
-Abe.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:37 PM   #25
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The amount of space with the downpipe-manifold-turbo in place was almost non existant(and that is with a relatively small 2554 and following the order that the manual suggests).

Clocking the turbo was the solution for the fitting and after spending hours with the the manifold-turbo bolts everything is fitted...



BUT

I've run to an even bigger problem. The car doesn't start. The starter works but the engine doesn't fire up. The only change in the car was removing the AFM and it's place took the IAT sensor supplied by diyautotune. Also the car doesn't have a o2 sensor(at the time)but this shouldn't be a problem for just starting it up...

I'm really confused...
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:05 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythos View Post
The amount of space with the downpipe-manifold-turbo in place was almost non existant(and that is with a relatively small 2554 and following the order that the manual suggests).

Clocking the turbo was the solution for the fitting and after spending hours with the the manifold-turbo bolts everything is fitted...



BUT

I've run to an even bigger problem. The car doesn't start. The starter works but the engine doesn't fire up. The only change in the car was removing the AFM and it's place took the IAT sensor supplied by diyautotune. Also the car doesn't have a o2 sensor(at the time)but this shouldn't be a problem for just starting it up...

I'm really confused...

Oh man. Did you take out the ST fuse? If you don't, it blows a resistor for the fuel pump in the ms. They fixed mine for $50.00.

Also make sure you are in the correct pins on the afm connector. I almost made that mistake.

Also make sure you chose the 90-93 without afm, and the if the fuel injector settings are right.

If you did forget to take the fuse out. just hook up the afm it will run then. You can feel the boost before you send it off or fix it.
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:32 PM   #27
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My car is running with Megasquirt for some months without a problem...The only change(except mechanical)was wiring the IAT sensor and removing the o2 sensor(the place of the stock narrowband will take an lc1).
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddcod View Post
Also make sure you are in the correct pins on the afm connector.

Also make sure you chose the 90-93 without afm, and check if the fuel injector settings are right.
Have you already installed the Lc1? If so, did you go into settings and change it to wideband and also select the Lc1 sensor?

Look up Matt from DIYA in a search, and e-mail him. He will hook you up.
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Old 10-29-2008, 09:10 PM   #29
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The wideband(and narrowband)aren't in the car right now since I just wanted to start it and found out that it doesn't fires up.

Also where do I want my wideband to the bung closer to the turbo or the one closer to the cat???
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:39 AM   #30
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Default Closer to the cat for the wideband..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mythos View Post
The wideband(and narrowband)aren't in the car right now since I just wanted to start it and found out that it doesn't fires up.

Also where do I want my wideband to the bung closer to the turbo or the one closer to the cat???
Hey Mythos,
I'm no expert, but what I've read is that the heat closer to the turbo will eat the wide band sensors. The narrow band should be close to the turbo, and the wideband close to the cat.

Jim
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Old 10-30-2008, 10:25 PM   #31
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It's possible the IAT being way wrong signal can mess things up - dumping way too much or way too little fuel, I've seen this on other cars, though not specifically on MS.

Does the MS show the RPM? Do you get fuel, spark?
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Old 10-31-2008, 04:59 AM   #32
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The MS show rpm(200-300) and there is no spark. Also I can clearly hear that the fuel pump isn't working...

More about that specific problem here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t27600/
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Old 10-31-2008, 06:56 AM   #33
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You 're so tempting me to just go and leave the car to Rotary Beat and then blow your head off...
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:12 AM   #34
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He said blow you. huh.

Er, well, I guess you should check and see if the relay is being fed a signal

Do you have a jimstim? You could try turning on the fuel pump on your own


OH! Doesn't the OEM use the AFM to turn on the fuel pump? It does. Joe remembers how to do this. Otherwise, I can figure it out later, but yeah, you have to jumper something to make the MS turn on the fuel pump, I'd forgotten. Weird MS-I people.
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Old 11-02-2008, 12:56 AM   #35
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Fuel Pump:

FUEL PUMP 1.6L only:
Here is where I jumpered my fuel pump

Tap it into the light green wire off this harness under the dash:



It’s just under the driver side to the left of the clutch pedal.
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Old 11-16-2008, 09:34 AM   #36
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Big update!

The electrical problem related to the fuel pump might be related to my MSPnP but I will know more when my ECU is at DIYAutotune hands. Regardless of that the car is working fine for the last two weeks without a single hitch or any leaks. Here are the some photos from the installation...























While installing the Begi kit can be a very simple job one single bolt/nut can take hours in order to find the space(and the tool) to get it tightened. The quality is really great and the instructions very good and most problems has to do with the limited space between the engine and the frame.

My only complaint would be the wideband sensor downpipe bung that positions the sensor in a way that contacts the transmission tunel.

With the car finally working just the night before the event I made a quick MS map(based on the useful info here and paul's map...thanks!)and managed to turn some laps with my finally...turbo miata!






The last weeks was my introduction at tuning my MS. I worked the part throttle areas of the map since the full throttle was pretty good. Both road and dyno tuned it and driveability is much better than what the car was NA with base MSPnP map.

I also got a LM-1 wideband to validate my LC-1 and unfortunately there is a big difference in what each sensor reads. The problem was that their difference wasn't a fixed value and the LC-1 reading seamed to have a lot of noise/spikes.

The car runs without intercooler and the best fuel I can get(BP Ultimate-100 octane)and until now no audible knock has appeared. The car at 0,3-0,35 bar(5 psi) pulled 168 hp and 19,8 kgm that translate to approx. ~140-145 at the wheels with a very nice curve.







I know the numbers aren't impressive I was working with the map on the dyno for almost an hour when the run was made(car was warm)and also seamed to have more power but the operator lifted. Also my tuning skills are less than basic so I guess the map is far from the best/optimum.

More photos and in bigger resolution can be found here:

My Miata :: Turbo trackday NA - a set on Flickr

A big thanks for all the help! I will keep the thread updated(much more to follow)...
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Old 11-23-2008, 10:22 PM   #37
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Nice job on the car! congrats and keep up the good work
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Old 11-24-2008, 11:22 AM   #38
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i love what ur doing, great job, anyone who can build and run their own car is cool in my book
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