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Old 11-09-2006, 06:06 PM   #1
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Default Help BOV Install... Seen 2 diff ways what one is right.

one we have go-tard Jim with his way where the diaphram is going back to the Turbo Inlet. *First two photos attached show it that way*

Then you have people who are VTA with the Diaphram faced to Charge pipe/intake pipe/cold side *other photo*

so yeah umm wtf what way is the right way to do it for non-VTA?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BOV-hose-fitting.jpg (107.1 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg BOV-install1.jpg (100.9 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg DSC02832 (Large).JPG (67.1 KB, 90 views)
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Old 11-09-2006, 06:36 PM   #2
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I believe that the third pic is the correct way (with the other two being incorrect). When speaking to Corky - he told me (from memory) "sit the bov on the desk - the bit touching the table is the inlet - plumb that into your i/c piping".

I'm new so others please agree / disagree
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:03 PM   #3
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Yeah, the first two are wrong.

Take it to full boost then shift, he'll find out real quick it's backwards.
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:26 PM   #4
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What the hell is that huge ugly white thing?
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:49 PM   #5
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Yeah, mine is in the first way right now, and I haven't gotten around to fixing it. Hmm, maybe I'll do that now..
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wideopentuning View Post
What the hell is that huge ugly white thing?
It's a check valve made from a PVC plumbing fitting. Similar in concept to the JGS Precision VTA valve.
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/oav.html

Most BOV valves leak when the engine is under vacuum. My FM piston-type for example is nearly wide-open when the engine is idling. The diaphram types probably do the same thing. This is a problem for AFM-equipped engines, since there's air entering the engine which wasn't metered, so the fuel mixture is wrong. Usually the engine will just plain stall under these conditions.

The valve is a one-way mechanism. Air can escape (under pressure) but it can't flow in under vacuum.
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:05 PM   #7
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My greddy RS doesnt leak at idle. I discovered this after running recirculating for a few months and just switching it to atmo just for fun to hear what it sounds like. I was expecting it to stall out with the AFM but to my surprise it sucks in no air at all @ idle.
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:24 PM   #8
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RS designed to run VTA. Greddy-S designed to bypass.
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Old 11-09-2006, 09:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
It's a check valve made from a PVC plumbing fitting. Similar in concept to the JGS Precision VTA valve.
http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/oav.html

Most BOV valves leak when the engine is under vacuum. My FM piston-type for example is nearly wide-open when the engine is idling. The diaphram types probably do the same thing. This is a problem for AFM-equipped engines, since there's air entering the engine which wasn't metered, so the fuel mixture is wrong. Usually the engine will just plain stall under these conditions.

The valve is a one-way mechanism. Air can escape (under pressure) but it can't flow in under vacuum.
Why not just run the proper valve that won't leak but will still adequately vent like a Tial or Greddy Type S or R? Most valves are not open when equipped with the proper spring.
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wideopentuning View Post
Why not just run the proper valve that won't leak but will still adequately vent like a Tial or Greddy Type S or R?
Because I already have the FM, and with the JGS valve it doesn't leak.
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Old 11-09-2006, 10:59 PM   #11
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The Bosch valve will actually work either way, but it'll last longer and work better if configured the way in the third pic.
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Old 11-09-2006, 11:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Because I already have the FM, and with the JGS valve it doesn't leak.
Thats fine. The huge white thing though is ugh.
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Old 11-10-2006, 12:01 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by bripab007 View Post
The Bosch valve will actually work either way, but it'll last longer and work better if configured the way in the third pic.
Well, I'm
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Old 11-10-2006, 07:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wideopentuning View Post
Thats fine. The huge white thing though is ugh.
Yah, but it's only $8... and you can get a brass one that will last forever for $9. DIY at it's best man! If you're on a budget, it's the way to go... PS, that third pic is mine. Final install will be completed this weekend and I'll let y'all know how it works.
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Old 11-10-2006, 12:07 PM   #15
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At least place the BOV where its out of site then. You know that knock off Greddy BOV's are under $40 on Ebay?
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Old 11-10-2006, 05:24 PM   #16
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Some of those I've heard are not bad, but idk. The ones I was looking at were from "dynasty auto".
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Old 11-13-2006, 12:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UofACATS View Post
Well, I'm
It'd be easier to explain if you were looking at one, but there's basically a rubber diaphgragm attached to a valve seat that's spring-loaded. Kinda like a wastegate actuator.

If you connect it the wrong way, air flows into the side of the valve seat, but it'll still work because vacuum on the diaphgragm is pulling the valve up off the seat. Used this way, though, and the diaphgragm will wear out more quickly because the valve is being pushed sideways and may not seal well over time.
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Old 11-13-2006, 01:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
Some of those I've heard are not bad, but idk. The ones I was looking at were from "dynasty auto".
This is who I bought my "greddy type s" from. I should be getting it this week and will be doing my install next week. I can report back then how well the knock off is working for me. I'll be making a 300 mile trip to visit relatives and a 600 mile trip from there back to school. So I think I'll know well enough how its working after the trip.
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