I need bolts to replace manifold>turbo bolts on greddy - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Prefabbed Turbo Kits A place to discuss prefabricated turbo kits on the market
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-26-2009, 04:12 PM   #1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 227
Total Cats: -14
Default I need bolts to replace manifold>turbo bolts on greddy

I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but the bolts keep coming loose and one snapped on my greddy kit. They're the ones that bolt the turbo to the manifold. Anyone know the thread/length/ and any other info I need to go to the hardware store and buy these before I start taking it apart? Thanks!
linuxbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 04:39 PM   #2
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
kotomile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 7,578
Total Cats: 40
Default

Fasteners (Nuts/Bolts/Studs): atpturbo.com

The 8mm studs and copper nuts are what I use. Order extras just in case.
kotomile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 04:52 PM   #3
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Delicious and Moist.
Posts: 26,328
Total Cats: 1,926
Default

It is a common problem with the stock hardware.

If you'd have asked this question a day ago I could have answered it as I had easy access to the turbo. Today, the best I can say is to take the bolts to ACE Hadrware and use their thread gauge to determine what they are. Not Home Depot, not Lowes, not Builder's Square. ACE Hardware.

I think they are 8x1.25, but I won't swear to it.

At any rate, once you know the size, find the bin containing the shouldered class 10.9 equivalent. Every ACE has 'em, and these are the ones you want to be using.

For the turbo-manifold junction, I use a set of these (in addition to class 10.9 bolts) and in the three years my Greddy turbo has been in place, I've never had a bolt loosen.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 02:12 PM   #4
Hear me Meow
iTrader: (3)
 
skidude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Outside Portland Maine
Posts: 1,994
Total Cats: 13
Default

Joe, how do you get those bolts off again? Those lock washers look amazing and as soon as I can find out if they fit a 14b I will order a set.

edit: looks like I can get a set from mcmaster in any size I need.
skidude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 02:25 PM   #5
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Delicious and Moist.
Posts: 26,328
Total Cats: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skidude108 View Post
Joe, how do you get those bolts off again?
I don't know- I've never needed to remove mine.

I would imagine that it involves the use of a wrench and the application of torque in a counter-clockwise direction.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 03:10 PM   #6
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 123
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I don't know- I've never needed to remove mine.

I would imagine that it involves the use of a wrench and the application of torque in a counter-clockwise direction.
Priceless!!
1redcanuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 04:52 PM   #7
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,865
Total Cats: 493
Default

Joe, you use the 10.9 shouldered bolts or studs?

I'm going to change the hardware holding the turbo to mani very soon. Tired of the bolts loosening. Should I switch to stud/nut from ATP in conjunction with those nord-locks from FM or stick to bolts (10.9) with the nord-locks? I don't want to have to re-do the fasteners again after this.
-Ryan
ThePass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 05:23 PM   #8
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Delicious and Moist.
Posts: 26,328
Total Cats: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePass View Post
Joe, you use the 10.9 shouldered bolts or studs?
I used 10.9 shouldered bolts for both the turbo-manifold and downpipe-turbo connections. On the manifold connection I used the fancy washers, and at the downpipe I simply used flat washers and split lockwashers. On both sets of bolts I liberally applied copper anti-seize compound prior to insertion. I've no idea how it's holding up after several years of being in an exhaust manifold, but perhaps someday we'll find out.

I did remove the bolts joining the downpipe to the turbo about eight months ago, and the anti-seize compound seemed to have done its job there. None of the bolts were difficult to remove, and their threads (after cleaning with a toothbrush and brake cleaner) appeared pristine. I re-used the same bolts when I re-installed the downpipe.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 09:23 PM   #9
Newb
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 4
Total Cats: 0
Default

I saw that no one really answered part of your question; "I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but the bolts keep coming loose and one snapped on my greddy kit. "Yes! Everyone I know wha has the Greddy kit has busted off at least the back right bolt/stud. I guess one ofthe fundamental flaws is that there is no flex in the downpipe. As a result, the torque of the motor puts a lot of stress on the studs and they loosen or snap. I was at an autocross 3 weeks ago. One snapped and the other three were barely finger tight! If you have access to a welder, cut a section of the lower half of the down pipe (about 6" before the cat) and replace it with a piece of flex pipe. My friends who have done this have never had the issue again.
miatarob112 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 09:31 PM   #10
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
kotomile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 7,578
Total Cats: 40
Default

Or kill two birds with one stone and get a bigger downpipe, IIRC both types on the market for the Greddy use a flex section.
kotomile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2009, 03:31 AM   #11
Newb
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 44
Total Cats: 0
Default

Go to home depot or osh, they will have them there for about 65 cents apiece I believe. Bring the other fasteners and I swear there is always a guy who can eyeball whatever bolt you have and get it right the first time around.
Chris_Himself is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2009, 11:08 PM   #12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 227
Total Cats: -14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
Fasteners (Nuts/Bolts/Studs): atpturbo.com

The 8mm studs and copper nuts are what I use. Order extras just in case.
What did you torque them to?
linuxbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2009, 12:08 AM   #13
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Tmorgan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 79
Total Cats: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxbox View Post
What did you torque them to?
As tight as you can with a 1/4 ratchet.
Tmorgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2009, 12:20 AM   #14
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Delicious and Moist.
Posts: 26,328
Total Cats: 1,926
Default

Yeah, some fasteners you just can't get a torque wrench onto. I snugged mine down with an open-end wrench, and like Tmorgan, just tried to get 'em as tight as reasonably practical.
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2009, 02:25 PM   #15
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2009, 06:39 PM   #16
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
 
Joe Perez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Delicious and Moist.
Posts: 26,328
Total Cats: 1,926
Default

Why you persist in posting up these images of your turbo-shaped **** ring simply confounds me...
Joe Perez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2009, 06:54 PM   #17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 227
Total Cats: -14
Default

Jesus christ 3 out of 4 bolts are broken off in the manifold, and there is also a crack in the manifold now. I can't even drill them out, such a pain in the ***. I'm just going to weld the turbo to the manifold, lets see it come loose then! Then once that turbo blows I'll throw it and the manifold off a building and get better ****.
linuxbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2009, 12:34 PM   #18
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,114
Total Cats: 351
Default

If you don't track the car:
get the studs out
get BOLTS
dress the bolts with lots and lots of copper anti-seize
get .032" B122 safetywire and pliars
use 15lb/ft or so on the bolts
heat cycle and when cool, tighten again
win at life

This will probably work on the street.

To get the currently broken studs out, hit the broken area with a torch (beat red), then hold a candle on there, mig a nut to the stud area(the cast manifold won't weld, the broken stud will), twist off, win at life.
hustler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2009, 03:23 PM   #19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 227
Total Cats: -14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
If you don't track the car:
get the studs out
get BOLTS
dress the bolts with lots and lots of copper anti-seize
get .032" B122 safetywire and pliars
use 15lb/ft or so on the bolts
heat cycle and when cool, tighten again
win at life

This will probably work on the street.

To get the currently broken studs out, hit the broken area with a torch (beat red), then hold a candle on there, mig a nut to the stud area(the cast manifold won't weld, the broken stud will), twist off, win at life.

Thanks for the good advice, I went to a welding shop this morning before seeing your post, he torched most of the old bolt and then drill pressed and tapped new 5/16 thread holes, and gave me some anti-seize so hopefully I won't have any more broken bolts!
linuxbox is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2009, 03:32 PM   #20
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: McDonough Ga.
Posts: 356
Total Cats: -26
Default

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
5/16-18 or 5/16-24?
-G-
Reverend Greg is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB T25/T28 flanged turbo ASAP JesseTheNoob WTB 4 09-11-2015 02:25 PM
WTB parts for HPDE car Voltwings WTB 5 09-11-2015 09:23 AM
New here, saying hi, here's what I'm workin with. SuperSneakySecretSquirrel Meet and Greet 5 09-06-2015 09:30 PM
Overheating Turbo'd 96M Bruce MacKay General Miata Chat 8 09-05-2015 08:05 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:56 PM.