I think i fucked up my motor PLease help
 

ok well yesterday i was cleaning and re mounting my intake and i forgot to reinstall my wastegate line and well i got on the freeway to head out to a car meet and i got on it and noticed my oil pressure started bouncing everywere so i glanced at my boost gauge and it was higher then my normal 7lbs so i let off the gas and stayed under boost till i could get off the freeway and when i stopped the car i kept it running for a bit to let it cool down but when i stopped my freinds said i started blowing smoke my turbo is fine no shaft play so im pretty certain its not the turbo but at idle it kinda seems rough it still idles at the set idle just seems rough. also there is oil in the engine bay. i did notice today looking at it in the light that when i removed my ac pump i didnt replace the bolt that i have heard holds the front part of the oil pump in place so im hoping the oil im seeing is just coming out there and when i replace that bolt it stops. so what all do you guys suggest i look for? im gunna do a compressioon test also im gunna replace my plugs and im hoping thatll fix the rough idle and im hoping the compression numbers are fine. so heres the help i need. please tell me anything else i can check without tearing down the motor also what is the bolt thread pitch and size i need to put back in. i think someone said 10x1.25 40mm is that correct?

if you saw your oil gauge freaking out, your were knocking.

if you were knocking, you probably damaged your rings/ring lands.

I'm assuming it was whitish blue smoke.

If there is smoke alot of smoke you could have fubarred a piston, wich would have presurized the crank case and, blown a bunch of oil into the intake. Do the compression test first becouse if that is bad then, there is no point in replacing the bolt just yet as the motor needs to be pulled and repaired.

The bolt you need is M8-1.25 x 45mm. I ran without it for almost a year, and the quantity of oil that came out was fairly small. Not nearly enough to coat the engine bay, just enough to make me pull my hair out trying to figure out where it was coming from. Thought it was from my oil turbo oil return fitting initially, since that's where it was running down towards.

Sadly however I think our comrades may be correct. If you were running with no WG signal, then who knows how much pressure and heat were being produced. 15 PSI? 25 PSI? Pretty likely that the pistons have suffered for it. A compression test will reveal all.

well that is true ok so the bouncing oil pressure was most likely it pinging ok. but the smoke out the pipe only happened during that pull after that it was smoke out from under the hood which smelled like burning oil.. which made me look more for the oil leak today. ok i will do the compressioon test what should my numbers be? also does anyone know exactly what size that bolt is ill need?

do you have your breather line attached to the intake pipe?

Look at the post immediately above your last one. #4.

Do a compression check and get back to us.

we posted at the same time i noticed that and yes i have my breather line hooked up to the intake.

one more reason to run MS... it has an over-boost function to prevent this sort of thing.

+1

For what it's worth, the factory spec for compression on a 1.6 is 135-192 PSI on all four, with no more than 28 PSI variance between highest and lowest. In reality, we like to see numbers towards the higher end of this range and much closer together.

When doing the compression test, remove all four spark plugs and disconnect the igniter module. Also disconnect the plug that drives the fuel injectors or pull the INJ fuse from the box under the hood. While cranking, either have someone hold the throttle plate fully open, or use some zipties to achieve the same thing.

when you pulled the intake did you notice oil?

what's your vacuum at idle look like now?

vacuum at idle looks normal

+1

It posts an update?

Or else it get's the hose again!

Greenskeepers rock

sorry been super busy havent had the chance to check anything yet. shes still sitting in her parking spot. tommorrow i will have an update.

well i just tried to do my compression check on my own and found out the stupid check valve to release the pressure leaks on my tester so im gunna have a freind check it while i turn over the motor. and its not oil that was leaking its all my powering steering fluid. so now i have to find out if its from the pump or from the rack. but i bought a 40mm bolt and its to short they have no 45 the next closest was 50 but they were all out so maybe someone could buy a bolt for me and send it to me and ill send payment. but ill report back in a bit with compression numbers.

What di I say sixteen posts ago?Go to an ACE Hardware store. There is one in every town, and they have the best selection of metric hardware of any local shop I've seen.

Good news on the power steering I suppose. Curious that it picked this exact time to go, but better P/S fluid coming out of the car than engine oil.

ok heres my numbers which i forgot to hold the throttle open wide which im certain wouldnt make a bit of a difference as far as the variation goes plus the motor was kinda cold. but from closest to the firewall to furthest the numbers are 105;148;150;140. so now my question is this how can i find out if its my valves leaking or if its my piston rings leaking or head gasket?

leakdown test.

how do i do that and exactly how will that tell me what it is? my other freind with a 240 told me to do that also.

looks like something is wrong with trusty #4

Go to a shop and ask them to do it for you or get a leakdown tester from harbor freight and do it yourself with an air compressor. The tester is like $40 from HF.

Since you have a compression tester, repeat the compression test but add a little oil to cylinder #4 and see if the numbers come up. If they increase significantly, most likely the rings.

how much oil should i add?

a teaspoon.

ok i added a cap full of oil to cylinder # 4 and did the compression test again still no open throttle but the motor was warm and my first number was 150 then 135 then 120 then last was 115. every time i did it the numbers kept getting lower. so basically i need to do a leak down test then? i dont wanna start having things replaced or replacing myself and find out that wasnt the problem.

Why aren't you opening the throttel that is how it is done? My nissan would read around 130-140 psi with the throttle close and 180-190 with it opened. Also with a closed throttle the cylinders with a more direct path from the intake stream, will cause variantions.

yeah but im certain that ....oh shit i just got it ill try it with full throttle but lets say my numbers dont change much then were to go next? plus if there were no compression problem in that cylinder wouldnt the numbers not change from adding oil?

adding oil takes up more space in the CC so it will raise compression unless you have totally bypassed your rings. MY blown motor with #2 showing 90 psi compression and the piston basically shattered. Adding oil put me to 130 psi. the rest where around 180 or so.

adding oil also seals the rings better and therefore the compression should go up....

i understand that what im saying though is even with the throttle closed im still probably correct by saying my number 4 cylinder is bad? but today i noticed either im actually leaking oil. i drove it today and when i went to leave i saw some oil under the car and just to check i checked my oil level and i had lost a quart of oil so im wundering could that oil be from a blown headgasket and therefore the bad compression also from the gasket?

A blown ring will push oil past the ring into the compression chamber, producing white smoke in the exhaust and oil consumption. Basically, you fucked up your #4 cylinder by running the car lean due to too much boost, and you need a new engine.

yes, #4 is toast. oil just helps pinpoint the problem.

leakdown test is best for this.

fuck fuck fuck.

welcome to the club, i know it seems like its the end of the world. but its really not, you'll learn more about your car doing this yourself than you ever wanted to know. i blew a motor when my wg actuator line came off and i boosted 23psi. just roll with the punches, hang in there. and you'll get it done. its really an easy engine to remove/reinstall.

doing the work and having the know how isnt my problem my problem is noplace to do the work and no money to do the work. so i guess my car shall sit now.

just curious. could i get away with just replacing the rings for all my cylinders? i know i know im down there and have it all apart i might as well upgrade shit but i realy have no money do to no job so yeah.

If you are lucky and the piston is not fucked up. Yeah you can

ok well ive priced it and i think im just gunna rebuild my whole motor as sooon as i get a job and if i can hold out long enough ill keep the miata and just use my wifes car for a daily and build up the motor to handle the 9lbs of boost.

Well, I see two avenues here...

One- at this point the head has gotta come off anyway. Why not just pull it now (a couple hours' work) and survey the situation. Maybe a piston has melted, but then again maybe not.

Two- if the motor is in fact blown, perhaps simply replacing it with a junkyard engine rather than rebuilding it would be a more viable option? Taking the engine down to the block and rebuilding it with "built" parts is sexy and attractive, but unnecessary. A completely stock engine is more than adequate for 9psi. Hell, most of us are running a lot more than that without ever having pulled the oil pan.

see the thing is if i dont pull anything yet ill still have the ability to drive it somewere in case i actually need to go somewere.

ok well im curious guys. ive looked around online and found some products that are suppossed to restore the rings and there seal. do you guys knoow if something like that might work as a temp fix?

I would bet that you cracked a ring land, rings generally don't just go bad in a couple of days. Rings go bad over time and get progressively worse.

so that ring restore stuff prolly doesnt work?

Sounds like a strong case for option two, then. Start shopping. Find an engine that runs, and drop it in. Maybe replace the seals and timing belt first, but otherwise just pop that baby in.

well i think im just gunna replace the bottom end with a junk yard bottom end because itll only cost me 57 bucks now how can i do a compression test on it with out the starter? will the numbers be still norm by me cranking it by hand? also i was wundering which would you suggest using the flyinmiata head gasket for boost? or buying a stock one from like checkers?

Buy a stock one.
You can get them locally or from here,
http://www.finishlineperformance.com/

so i wont see any performance gane from running that head gasket from flyin miata? or would i lose power?

You would see neither.

ok i just noticed its for bored over pistons. well so what all would you suggest i replace while its open? im gunna put on my new water pump from my botton end. i also have a new timing belt. im gunna put on my oil pan so its gunna get a new oil pan gasket. what else would be really easy to do and cheap also again i ask will the compression numbers for it be able to be reached with it being turned over by hand?

Just replace maintenance items, otherwise it will get expensive very quickly. Also, there is not oil pan gasket on the miata, you just need to get some of the grey permatex that is made for oil pans, etc...

Compression number likely will not be reached by hand. I've never tried it though.

No.

All engines have some leakdown. Rings have gaps, valves aren't 100% perfect. The engine needs to be turning fast enough to overcome these losses.

If you look closely, you'll see that the FSM actually specifies that the engine must be turning at 300 RPM during the test.

so what should i look for during the tear down to make sure im not gunna do the swap for so,mething that already has fucked up cylinders?

once you pull the head look at the cylinder walls. you'll most liekly see veritcal scoring and oil on the piston. examine the head gasket.

this sounds like a typical case of too much boost. I've seen it happen before and the same thing happens, you lose #4.

swapping the block with a known good one as you suggested is the easiest solution (or a full on engine swap). in the meantime get a new water pump, timing belt, head gasket, and mill the head. that's the bare minimum you'd want to do.

Well you could just jerry rig the starter or your very best bet would be to find a running motor. All and all taking of the head and looking at the cylinders and walls for scoring is easy and effective. Most motors might only need a rering unless the where exploded with detonation. The head would not need to be milled if it is true though so give it a once over and confer with the machine shop on wether it is nice and flat.

so then couldnt i just replace my rings?