If I build around GT2560 will log mani be a hindrance comp. to a SSM -also DP design?
 

I've done some searching to see how much better the SSM style manifold over a log design is. Perhaps I didnt search enough but it looks to be better but the tests were on bigger turbo's and higher psi levels than I am going to start and maybe live (stay) with


Want to stay with stock motor '02 and less than 12psi so I dont know if it will be noticable having either one.

I would like good streetability with power starting early thats I why I think I may need the tubular design but I dont know enough right now.


Should I spend the extra money going to a SSM from a cast manifold?

Will the FM manifold and cast DP hinder the spool ? Should I at least go with the BEGI SGDP if I do go with any of the cast log mani's ?


Thanks

Spool: Absurdflow
Looks: Absurdflow/ARtech/DIY

18 psi & i think wanecurr both made there own manifolds, both very good looking and work fine im sure.

If you even plan to track the car, begi/fm mani's seem to have a pretty big issue with loosing/stretching studs.

Tubular kicks ass

What does SSM stand for?

By "cast log mani", I assume you mean either the FM or BEGI cast mani? I wouldn't consider them "log" manifolds.

I have no experience with the FM options (mani or downpipe) so between them or BEGI I don't know which I would go with.

My biased opinion is to run Absurdflow stuff as it's relatively cheap for me to do so. If you don't feel like waiting, paying, and/or dealing with that absurdflow jackass, go with ARTech.

:2cents:

^ lol, Tim you must be have an assload of work driving customers away like that :cool:

flow:ne:spool
smallest/shortest runners = faster spool
bigger downpipe = faster spool

Long runner manifolds spool slower than a log manifold, all else being equal, but make more power once spooled.

Actually I haven't done anything since thesnowboarder's stuff. I have one guy w/deposit wanting the same thing but I won't make it until there's many more hours on the 3 that are out there. Other than that (one), my plate is empty. I may build another BEGI/FM replacement tubular mani shortly as I already purchased the raw material a month ago (for a build that fell through).

I like pushing work your way because you do a great job, are inexpensive, and I like you. no homo. ;) And you do 1.6 stuff.

End hijack.

OP, what do you want to do with the car? For street and/or track, the spool you get with the FM cast with a 2560, esp with a good dp & exhaust will probably be sufficient. The caveat for track duty with this setup is that 1. you may have stud problems on track with this combo and 2. there is no vband housing avail for this turbo (someone correct me if I'm wrong, I only found a vband to flange adapter on atp).

I am sticking with my 2560R, since I have it, and am having a tubular mani built for it, hoping for awesome spool for autocross. Plus, tubular is just cooler.

The smallest housing that Tial makes thats v-band tastic is the 2860

I don't see the point of getting an expensive tubular manifold if you're targeting 250whp. As you boost more, those percentage points of improved efficiency make much more of a difference than at 15psi.

I do agree with the vband comment EXCEPT note that after I resbonded my 10mm studs, they stopped backing out. I'm not an ultra track commando but I have some faith in the resbond for street use and probably light track. There's track data in the epic thread.

It will just be a street car, so looking for torque to start building down low.

I think low end torque comes form unequal length runners but you will suffer your top end.

SSM is BEGI talk for Stainless Steel "Header Style" Exhaust Manifold

Ahh ok thanks.

If torque is your primary concern, why not go with the 2554?

or a stupidcharger! :bigtu:

um...he said torque. :confused:

im just thrownin it out there! :giggle: instant power in low rpm range, wasnt really ment to be serious!

My math:

GT2560R
BEGI log
IWG
MBC
94 low comp block, stock head
3" Enthuza
________ +

Spools 14psi before 3500rpm.

Very streetable, but for pure street/city driving I'd probably get a 2554. For track I might be tempted to get slightly larger, or get a 99+ head.

Dyno plot of the above w/BEGI SGDP vs absurdflow versions of same parts on same year block/head, same dyno. 14psi for BEGI vs 12 & 13psi for absurdflow. Worth the extra cost? :dunno:

http://www.inoneear.com/outtheother/...vs-BEGi_tq.jpg
http://www.inoneear.com/outtheother/...vs-BEGi_hp.jpg

MINIME WANT CHOCOLATE! :skid:

I read all the 2554 v '60 threads and since I'm only going to 12 psi max I might just have to do the 54. If I build the motor later I can upgrade to a bigger turbo.

Sounds like the Absurdflow + 3" all the way back can turn the 54 into a 60 for spool.

The issue with the Absurdflow is that its hard to find used ones - ok there is no used ones for sale. Whereas a used cast manifold is dirt cheap. I'm trying to keep costs down as I will be getting a Adaptronic in the mix and that also isnt a very discounted item.
I sure like the performance and looks of them though - very nice - love those welds.

You could send me an Absurdflow quote anyways by PM. I would need it to work with my PS and AC and throw in a good working used GT2554 to the quote if you have one. Make it a package deal. I suppose it would not be worth it without 3" piping all the way back as well. I wasnt sure if you did that too.

you're only leaving a little on the table with the cast manifold, while tim's manifolds are pretty much ideal, in your situation, you're probably best to snag a cast manifold and DP and just make it happen.

If you wanna pinch pennies, source a good SR20 T25 turbo, will perform like a GT2554.

'99 with one:
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...serialNumber=2

Yes, just need to get things going on my budget build- I havn't even had a ride in a non-normally aspirated Miata yet !!! (I have in a Viper ACR so i'm ok for now)

I really just need to get some boost!

This week we got a foot of snow and had mornings of -27C so even stock I am having wheel spin and it makes me not want to add any power or work on a car. I still keep watching the parts for sale forum so we'll see.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd go Absurdflow and v-bands everywhere. But I'm kind of serious about it. I track my car, I've broken studs before, etc.

For a street car and stock block, i would not bother myself.

Im pondering on the same thing. But I don't track the car like spooky and others on the forums, mostly autox. I'll probly end up with the original absurd manifold and bellmouth downpipe

How do people feel about the FM manifold and cast DP outlet ? I found a set of those for under $400 - worth it?

it works.

Yeap

I just want more flow.

That doesn't "boost" my confidence....

As in it'll get by or wowee thats great and soooo worth it

For that price, its worth it

don't get me wrong its a solid unit, it's just not designed to be the most efficient setup out there, nevertheless, it's not close to the worst either.

You have that backwards - you will get quicker spool on the 2560 w/ the tubular manifold and a 3" downpipe/exhaust

I am the guy that is awaiting Tim's next absurdflow Vband setup and I can hardly wait to dry hump that thing. I also bought one of Abe's(Artech) 1.6L manifolds and donwpipes for MiniMe(my previous DD street/track car) as I decided to turbo it again after the engine is rebuilt. That said, I would not hesitate to get a log style manifold for street use. I would only go V band and tubular on a car that sees track use, or if I had too much munny;)

I did have that backwards - thanks

Munny is the key....

You're wasting your money. Just get a log, floor the fucker and wait the .1 second longer for your shit to spool. There's no point to a tubular without megapower.

I hear you.

I think $400 is a good price for a manifold and the hardest part of the downpipe to make. There's no used absurdflow stuff because I haven't build many. it's just me in my garage in my spare time. I only sell stuff cheap when I build it w/o a buyer in mind then need the cash quick. I have a twin turbo setup for $1800 shipped in the classifieds ;) It's not what you want in terms of quick spool unfortunately.

Your stuff sounds so good that I doubt it would be resold unless someone went to a V8

Yeah, Tim builds that. Here's what he built for me. Click the pictures in here for bigger versions:
Shore Motorsports: Fabrication & Installation

And here is one he built for Paul:
Part 1: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...aulBEGIdp5.JPG
Part 2: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...aulBEGIdp7.JPG

very nice - thats an option to consider as well - thanks

The tubular manifolds are fine. They work great, and help to provide lower end spool. But, they are not as reliable as the cast manifold.

The SSM is the BEGI-S kit with "S"tainless "M"anifold. Basically, a BEGI-S turbo kit with the S4 Manifold and downpipe. Parts from the cast manifold and stainless manifold are not interchangeable. If you are not tracking the car, do not worry about the studs stretching.
Stephanie

I love that you're here!

http://boostedmiata.com/Lars/lars_dyno_9psi.jpg

That is a 2554 from an SR20 on my 94 at 9psi. At 12psi I am right around 225hp at the wheels. I recommend checking out the different 240 forums to find a cheap turbo. Mine was 100$ and worth every penny.