Jaw Wb
#1
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Jaw Wb
Anybody heard of or used these JAW widebands?
http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm
I like the price but haven't heard of how they compare or anything of the sort
http://www.14point7.com/JAW/JAW.htm
I like the price but haven't heard of how they compare or anything of the sort
#4
I'd still like one get one and put it all in an enclosure with a LCD panel meter. Use it like an LM1 with a cigarette lighter power source.
The price really can't be beat. Depending on wether or not Arkmage figured out his issues using it with megasquirt or not it might not be a good option to use it with megasquirt. As a standalone gauge just to monitor things that way is a different story.
The price really can't be beat. Depending on wether or not Arkmage figured out his issues using it with megasquirt or not it might not be a good option to use it with megasquirt. As a standalone gauge just to monitor things that way is a different story.
#7
I like mine a lot... it still spikes considerably, but I think it's due to an exhaust leak before the sensor. The unit itself is great and I will definately buy one for future projects. It's got some excellent features and with the new software it even has preset programs for common outputs (LC1, NB, AEM, ETC). The only thing I don't like is that the LCD is hard to see during the day with the top down, but you are going to have that problem with just about any digital display like that.
#9
It takes about an hour to assemble and calibrate. The only think I don't like about it is the connection header on the board. It's a pain in the *** to get the wires in cause the manual says to use a certain gauge wire for the heater and the header won't hold a wire that large. So, you end up trimming down the end and forcing it in with a small pair of pliers. All in all, i'm pleased as hell with the unit though.
I drilled 4 holes in the knee plate under the dash, put a few piece of foam on it (electrical isolator) and ziptied the controller on the plate (under the dash). It seems happy there.
I drilled 4 holes in the knee plate under the dash, put a few piece of foam on it (electrical isolator) and ziptied the controller on the plate (under the dash). It seems happy there.
#12
You have to make your own cable so it can be whatever length that you want. It's not like the LC1 where the o2 sensor plugs directly into the brain box. The PCB of the JAW does not have the mating connector to the o2 sensor, so you can either buy one or just use female spade connectors to connect to the o2 sensor plug.
#13
You have to make your own cable so it can be whatever length that you want. It's not like the LC1 where the o2 sensor plugs directly into the brain box. The PCB of the JAW does not have the mating connector to the o2 sensor, so you can either buy one or just use female spade connectors to connect to the o2 sensor plug.
Easier to remove too.
#15
He seems to have raised the prices recently and with the cost of the proper sensor hovering in the $60-$70 your very close to the price of a uego or an lc1 without display. All said and done your around $170-$180. I just picked up a brand new LC1, with sensor, and G2 gauge for $215 and the uego goes for about the same. I love to buy things like that and thats why i went Megasquirt from Braineack. Sometimes you just need to spend to get a proven product.
#16
I don't know about that... we had problems with the gauge type AEM UEGOs at school, and loads of people have had problems with failure of the LC1 around here and the msefi forum. I went this path to save some bucks and to try a new product. So far it has proven to be very reliable (been in the car ~ 6 months DD).
#19
He seems to have raised the prices recently and with the cost of the proper sensor hovering in the $60-$70 your very close to the price of a uego or an lc1 without display. All said and done your around $170-$180. I just picked up a brand new LC1, with sensor, and G2 gauge for $215 and the uego goes for about the same. I love to buy things like that and thats why i went Megasquirt from Braineack. Sometimes you just need to spend to get a proven product.
Originally Posted by AlanTo_creator of JAW
*I see lots of posts in various forums with the sentiment that JAW is not much cheaper than an LC-1, usually they compare JAW Assembled($80) + Assembled Display ($35) + Cost of Sensor ($50) = $165 to the LC-1 which is about $200. That is not a fair comparison as the LC-1 does not include a display, a fairer comparison would be to compare JAW against LC-1 ($200) + Innovate DB gauge ($90) = $290. Or to compare JAW Assembled ($80) + sensor ($50) =$130 to LC-1 ($200). Another point to consider is that LC-1 does not have RPM input for datalogging where as JAW does.
To be honest I am not competing against the LC-1, JAW serves a market segment that no one else serves, sub $100 and sub $50, at those price points there is no competition. When I make a wideband reader that is in the $200 range it will be a wideband that will bury other $200 widebands.
Before you decide to purchase JAW, please read the information on the JAW FYI Page, it lists exactly what other parts you need to buy to have a complete wideband system.
To be honest I am not competing against the LC-1, JAW serves a market segment that no one else serves, sub $100 and sub $50, at those price points there is no competition. When I make a wideband reader that is in the $200 range it will be a wideband that will bury other $200 widebands.
Before you decide to purchase JAW, please read the information on the JAW FYI Page, it lists exactly what other parts you need to buy to have a complete wideband system.