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Just ordered BEGI-S kit for my 1999
Hey guise.
Lurker turned member here, just ordered my kit from BEGI. 1999 Emerald green(PS\noABS\LSD) Shanghai-s Stainless downpipe Wideband 02 Begi's spaceship looking FMU. Waiting on delivery. This one's going to be a side of the road installation. I will be sure to take some pictures. Contemplating attempting running E85 in it as Prospero did with the same kit(he reported 10psi for a good bit of time noFMIC.) but I guess I will just see what 6 feels like. Did NGK wires\plugs today (went with a "colder" plug as suggested by a few) Timing belt and a new water pump are next on my list(I should have a decent bit of time to do these as they quoted me 4 weeks delivery time) Any other bits I should redo\replace in prep for the boost? John |
How did you lurk here and end up going with an FMU? Did you just not read what you were lurking for?
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Originally Posted by Nagase
(Post 719193)
How did you lurk here and end up going with an FMU? Did you just not read what you were lurking for?
But I'm sure I probably have some kind of brain issues going on too. I think the FMU is pretty cool. Its a cute little guy. Maybe I will add eyes and a face. Im sure you think I should have went with a MS2 or something crazy like that but I didnt want to get 600-700-800$'s in and need to buy software\harnesses to make my shit work. I considered building the DIYMS but actually appreciate the mechanical operation of BEGI's spaceship. Additionally, 5psi is my intention. tl;dr: Im poor and gay for the spaceship |
You have to lurk better.
Lurk 2: Lurk Harder. MS1 for 147: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-kit-p-28.html 10x better than a FMU. Cheap. It doesn't need to be 600$. You'll get much better MPG. Much better manners. It'll feel better and make more power. Even if you stick with the FMU, you need to control timing, and the FMU is already more expensive than an MS1. For under the price of just the FMU, you can even get the v3.0. The MS2 starts at 260$. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-kit-p-59.html The FMU is 230. You also need a timing unit. Your argument isn't very valid... |
In my wildest of dreams, I could not manage soldering the MS together, not with the best instruction manual nor with a day full of motivation. I understand you can purchase it built from Brain for ~500$.
Still have spaceship woody. The day will come when I will save up my pennies, strive for more boost, purchase a FMIC\larger injectors\o2 things\another unbroken chinacharger and then attempt to peddle my spaceship to somebody as a "table decoration" for 100$. At that point I will probably have the knowledge(or cash) to build(or buy) the MS2 and enjoy my car how you really think I should. How much should I look into timing if I am only running 5? |
This is sad. You could honestly wait save your pennies a little more, and have someone build you one for cheap... Your choice i guess.
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Take their advice, I started out with the same begi-s kit w/ fmu only to replace it with a brain built ms1 a month later.
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Yeah, I fully understand my decision, and I understand your rage, I just don't want that product right now.
Let me waste my money down the line. Let me learn the hard way, pops. I guess its good that this is MY mid tier shitbox and not your mid tier shitbox. Regardless, I am open to suggestions as to what I have left to do preparation wise. |
Originally Posted by angrytoaster
(Post 719291)
And my thread title to " I bought all the wrong pieces "
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Lol, welcome to the site. Nothing wrong with the pieces you bought, it'll get the job done. You'll almost certainly find yourself wanting more but at least you've got a nice basic setup and a pretty strait forward upgrade path.
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*
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Nagase, you're almost worst than the OP.
How do you expect the FMU to do anything on the returnless fuel system? post #4 is failboat city. #1. You don't address the fact that running an FMU on a returnless fuel system takes a lot of fandangling to even make it work... #2. You suggest the MS1 and state the price but fail to realize that not everyone can build a unit, and there is no MSI option for the 99 unless you run a 90-97 CAS which is stupid and you cannot plug the unit in without then building your own harness. The cost/time/effort/knowledge increases. #3. You suggest the MS2, but fail to realize that not everyone can build a unit, and you cannot plug the unit in without then building your own harness, and you need custom circuits to run a '99 on MS2...there is no msI option. The cost/time/effort/knowledge increases. #4 You come across like a complete asshole without good reasoning to why your suggestions would be better, other than cost. Becuase if he goes out and buys the v3.0 MS2 kit, he stills needs to do a lot more work and needs to spend a bit more cash for a harness solution all of which he is not capible of. You post should have simply focused on how the FMU won't really work and maybe suggesting the voodoo box and/or ecu reflash instead, if he really doens't have the budget for the cheapest robust ECU solution ever available... warning: im in a bad mood today, stop being assholes or I lay down my wraith. |
Brain, upon contacting a member over at miata.net I realized, as you said, a msii unit was not simply buy and solder together. With all of theadditional work/knowledge/cost involved I electedto attempt to "fandangle" the begi unit.
As stated before, I understand my decisions, I did not just pop off and buy the unit hoping it would work. I had a few conversations with the guys at begi and they assured me that I would have no problem making the fmu unit work and I trust that if I encounter any issues they will be happy to guide me the rest of the way. Everybody says this "doesn't work", but I've spoken to a few now who have actually installed and operated the unit on a 99-00 with no issue. Maybe if I don't fuck it up some other searching noob can learn from this thread. In b4 "no it work but ms bettar!!" |
it will work but MS bettar!
damn, too late. youre going to still want to keep boost low until you can address ignition retard. If you can get the FMU running, great, keep boost low 5-6psi or so. Get it running, then save up for a better solution and run moar boost saftely. Or you can go die in a flaming pit of feces because you didn't buy a MS and do everthing like everyone else. |
Maybe you have just answered one of the other q's I asked amidst the "I'm a newfag" flame, the stock timing won't be mega fuckered @ 5psi? I don't see q problem, but then again who knows.
I will be sure to come to you when it's ms2 time for product/information. |
Dirve it until it breaks, then retard it a bit.
I think at 5psi, you'll be okay, but if you knock, you need to retard. |
Originally Posted by angrytoaster
(Post 719370)
Maybe you have just answered one of the other q's I asked amidst the "I'm a newfag" flame, the stock timing won't be mega fuckered @ 5psi? I don't see q problem, but then again who knows.
I will be sure to come to you when it's ms2 time for product/information. |
Where are you located and what octanes are available? A ton of people run 87 octane on stock cars with no issues. The car does have a built in knock sensor. I wouldn't expect that you'd have a problem on 93 and conservative boost, but I've never personally done it.
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Originally Posted by angrytoaster
(Post 719156)
Waiting on delivery. This one's going to be a side of the road installation. I will be sure to take some pictures. Contemplating attempting running E85 in it as Prospero did with the same kit(he reported 10psi for a good bit of time noFMIC.) but I guess I will just see what 6 feels like.
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87-93 are commonly available but there is a place that only distributes e85 that is mildly local to me. Close enough to warrant driving on over. I am in morgantown, Wv. The place isn't exactly a pay and pump so I would have to arrange my own setup but their e85 is actually cheaper than regular in the area. Cool.
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running e85 on a stock ECU
whatthefuckamireading.jpg |
Originally Posted by MartinezA92
(Post 719765)
running e85 on a stock ECU
whatthefuckamireading.jpg |
The s kit is a nice setup. I installed mine last spring and drove around non intercooled until a couple of months ago. I planned ahead and picked up a greddy emanage with injector and timing control for about $275 used and also added a wideband and installed them before my kit arrived. (trust me, you'll have lots of time.)
These two items are must have equipment for turboing your nb, or at least some sort of fuel/timing device. You think your saving money, but when you blow your engine, think how much that's gonna run you. |
I fully intend to run the kit "as it is" to validate BEGI's claims of it being a good solution. According to the phone calls that I had with their reps, they have ran the car as it was, no ic, with the begi FMU for an extended test duration with no issues. I do appreciate the suggestion of the Greddy management unit, but if I start throwing money at it in the future I will most likely look to brain for my MS solution and harnesses.
A little bit of research tells me the greddy unit is discontinued, do you still use it? In b4 "omg so dumb engine blow up u dumb u dumb" |
Mine only ran 140 at the wheels with a S kit however i dont believe the tunning was perfect as the intake was burning hot.
I first tried to run begis 1.5k piggy back (no injectors) but i was getting some shitty stuff. Like it would randomly go lean at idle... it would randomly go super rich at times.. etc so i gave up on that and went with a standalone...Been thinking of switching to MS my self... |
Hey Toaster, how did your S kit work out? Been thinking of doing the same.
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Couldnt tell you. It came in the mail but the chinacharger came without a wastegate actuator so I havent been too motivated to install it until I have the part.
I did get the FMU in the mail...its really strange though. Instead of being space ship shaped its a black box that says "Diy auto tune" on the side of it. Thats working pretty well. |
Wow, been a while since you bought it? So you installed the FMU? Does it improve performance even withput the turbo?
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Angrytoaster, see if you can switch to a real Garrett actuator rated around 7 psi.
I had issues with the chinese-made one that came with the kit when running low boost initially. |
Toaster,
I'm stepping in because this wasn't made abundantly clear previously. YOUR CAR CANNOT RUN E85 WITHOUT A STANDALONE ECU. And once you have a standalone ecu you can either run regular gas OR e85 but not switch back and forth without retuning. OEM Flexfuel cars you see running around that can handle both fuels have a special sensor that detects the concentration of ethanol and the special ecu compensates accordingly. None of this can be done with a stock ecu and fmu. Your car will not run if you try, and if it does it will be harmed. Cars running e85 require ~30% more fuel all of the time than regular gas cars. That means idling, cruising, accelerating, and boosting. You have no way to accomplish this with your current tools. I don't want you to be stuck somewhere on the side of a road right after you filled up. You are welcome. |
Originally Posted by angrytoaster
(Post 737313)
I did get the FMU in the mail...its really strange though. Instead of being space ship shaped its a black box that says "Diy auto tune" on the side of it. Thats working pretty well. |
After tunning to E85 i also say bs. Stock ecu will not run E85. The main difference is its not a flat 30% scale. In other words if you add smaller injectors for good cruise, it will lean at higher loads. If you add bigger injectors for correct high load afrs, it will be rich at low loads.
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Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 720660)
I first tried to run begis 1.5k piggy back (no injectors) but i was getting some shitty stuff. Like it would randomly go lean at idle... it would randomly go super rich at times.. etc so i gave up on that and went with a standalone...Been thinking of switching to MS my self...
It's actually been great with 440's, that and throwing away all of the Begi maps and starting from scratch. |
Originally Posted by saedrin
(Post 737967)
<- the guy who bought that 1.5k piggy back from ya. ;)
It's actually been great with 440's, that and throwing away all of the Begi maps and starting from scratch. |
Originally Posted by trakhoar
(Post 737534)
For those who didn't read the entire thread :giggle:
He he, haw haw. Sorry for switching bait guys. Megasquirt is awesome, and I have seen the light. Just received some parts in the mail today from begi. I had hoped to start installing this weekend but some things have gotten in the way. Damnit. In other news, sixshooter thanks for the disclaimer, I hadnt intended on running E85 as my connection fell through, and the gas station that I found on google maps no longer exists. Ive been trying to tune the car N\A for now. Can I ask a dumb question about the tune? How does my fuel table need to be altered when I am running the turbo? Should my AFR table and ignition table remain the same? Are there any other no-brainer options that I need to tick on or off in MS to not blow my shit apart? I do not want to be spoonfed, but are there any tips I could steal as to not wreck my shit? Again, sorry about being gay for the FMU before, and thank you kind gentlemen for showing me otherwise. |
You'll be tunning the upper load cells (+100kpa). You might need to tune the 0-100 a tiny bit and usually pull some timing for safety. For E85 there is a website that shows you all the stations that carry it via government documents instead of google that sometimes doesnt work. Throttle on and off transitions will need to be changed and possibly few other settings however i'm not running ms so i dont know all the exact details.
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Makes sense about the upper load cells. For throttle on\off transitions, what do you mean? like altering the TPS calibration? Searched that e85 shit, somebody else linked me to govt website. The station exists on there too. I was so mad when I drove there for nothing
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MS might not have it so if it doesnt please ignore it but its an enrichment thats added when you step on the gas.
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Its called tip-in adjustments, and yes MS has it
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sorry everyone have to change the subject. That profile pic of SixShooter is sooo awesome. really awesome. I think a high res picture is needed.
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How about an update, angrytoaster?
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He's probably still waiting for the actuator.
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Hey again guise. So much has happened since I started the install
So, It took me a good two days to get off all the rusted exhaust bolts, most of my time spent on that tri-bolted area of the headers. I had to cut every single fucking bolt off with a dremel. The install was not too bad, the downpipe has some fitment issues that can be cleared up by adjusting the exhaust hanger and pulling it up a little bit. The charge pipe rattles against the hood when shut completely, however I assume this will be eliminated when I build my FMIC in. Now, about the car when it was running. So, it kind of caught on fire. The way the new bracket they sent me is designed, the oil line can only be run one way. Unbeknownst to me, this one particular way rubbed the oil line raw, and the combination of that and exhaust manifold heat blew it open and burned my dipstick, megasquirt vaccum line, throttle cable, valve cover, another vaccum line coming from brake booster, and made everything stink like oil forever. To make it work I had to modify the bracket with a grinder so that the oil line can be run a proper way. I wish I knew enough about the way things should have been beforehand, and saw this obvious flaw. I feel partially retarded about this, but feel that a "starters kit" of turbo kits should have considered this. The car is running under 7lbs of boost, and I have worked out the warmup\idle with my megasquirt unit. It seems everytime I read more of the megamanual the car runs slightly better. I am currently scouting out a FMIC setup, if any of you are getting rid of an NB setup Id be interested, I am also going to buy some rx7 injectors and maybe bring the boost up to 8 or 9. I can post pictures if any of you are interested in my melty ass dipstick. |
2 Attachment(s)
I have an older FM2 intercooler setup (on my DD) that I'm planning on replacing soon, looks like this:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1311275673 Let me know if interested. |
necropost.
I bought the car from angrytoaster. We're college friends. I figured you'd get a kick out of the outcome of the car. it's running "stable" at 7 psi. no knocking, no dangers. its still got fire extinguisher crap on one side of the engine bay and I've been meaning to just tear the turbo, manifold, intake, and other parts off and clean everything up. I picked up an FM intercooler kit, and I plan on finding some bigger injectors, but for now im quite happy. however... its down on power and stumbles when you get on it. As I stated in my welcome post I'm going to shelve the car for now until I get some reading done and get everything organized in my head. |
Alright you bunch of turkeys, here is the way it is. Listen up, 'cause I'm only going to scratch this out 99 more time, so your opportunity for a little wisdom is limited. Severely limited, maybe, but not likely here or now..... never mind. Anyway.......
The rising rate regulator can provide a very good control over the A/F in the zero to 6 psi range. It is fully adjustable with regard to onset of gain, and gain itself. It even stays on trac nicely. When used with a returnless system, the potential fuel delivery comes down to about five psi. Reasons are the higher stock fuel pressure and the fixed output of a pump. Thus the "span" of fuel pressures available is less. A handicap with the non-return style EFI, is the requirement to add a secondary high pressure pump. The return style EFI can operate at 6 psi without the secondary pump. Up to 9 psi with a 130 psi secondary pump . There is no way to retard the ignition with the regulator. Try as I might. Some retard is needed at 5 psi boost unless an intercooler is present. The vedooo does that all the time so one has some safety when at max boost. Still not a good part. Two/three degrees of retard is about right, but does not do any favors when off boost. Same retard needed for the regulator. Same result. E85 will require a bunch of additional fuel flow. Cooling will approach a medium quality intercooler. Octane will work small wonders. The regulator can be tuned by the onset screw to account for a great part of the additional fuel flow required by E85. An on/off switch could be installed in a parallel circuit to control the use from the driver seat. That could be done to a normally aspirated car even. Still, the rr regulator is not as good as the MeagerSquirt. I like the MS, even on a '99+. Ask Beaniac to make one for you. He has more experience with the MS than all the rest of us combined. Besides, he is a humorous, gregarious fellow and much smarter than one thinks at first introduction. That's what his wife told me. Thanks for the order, by all means, but consider some other possibilities. Maybe even the IC...... But first, talk to beaniousiac. corky |
Wow, that was timely.............
corky |
That post made me want a Margarita, too. :)
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It's a perfect example of how long it takes BEGi to respond to an email/thread :laugh:
jk jk I'm only (partially) joking :giggle: |
What the actual fuck.
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Originally Posted by Corky Bell
(Post 1155984)
But first, talk to beaniousiac.
I was told he is one of these guys. Can any one confirm? http://s14.postimg.org/rhqq7x8fl/beaniousiac.jpg |
:laugh:
I think the margaritas really snuck up on him |
I knew necroing this would have lead to disaster. lol
There is an MS2 in the car, toaster actually had a change of heart and ordered one all those years ago. I've been working on tuning the car, but first i've been spending my time reading the megamanual and learning what does what. So far I have determined that at 7PSI im going to need larger injectors, they are at full duty and im still leaning out in the higher RPMs. that and im fabbing up an exhaust, as this one is crap. |
Isn't bearnaisiac the twins?
Syty, if your injectors are at 100% duty you needed new injectors a long time ago. However, Bijouterisiac has written an excellent guide on plug and play injectors a long time ago, the rx8 yellows are nice and cheap if you don't fancy splurging on som ev14's. That said, the latter is considered to get you the most bragging rights and fueling niceness. |
Originally Posted by Sentic
(Post 1156955)
Isn't bearnaisiac the twins?
Syty, if your injectors are at 100% duty you needed new injectors a long time ago. However, Bijouterisiac has written an excellent guide on plug and play injectors a long time ago, the rx8 yellows are nice and cheap if you don't fancy splurging on som ev14's. That said, the latter is considered to get you the most bragging rights and fueling niceness. I just bought the car so most stuff is new to me. The car is parked right now until I sort it out, but I did already order a set of rx7 injectors based on some information I read on this forum. |
Do you go to WVU? I don't live that far away if you need help with anything.
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Originally Posted by Davezorz
(Post 1157190)
Do you go to WVU? I don't live that far away if you need help with anything.
I'm now down at the north central airport. I'm always looking for car folk to wrench with, im actually near I43 in cheat lake. Right now im going to tear the turbo and manifold off and do a little house keeping while I wait for the injectors to come in. as well as cut out areas where I can slide boost piping into an intercooler. |
I'm glad they finally finished 43, makes my drive down there easier, but 857 is probably one of the best Miata roads around. Just don't get stuck behind a dump truck.
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Originally Posted by Davezorz
(Post 1157297)
I'm glad they finally finished 43, makes my drive down there easier, but 857 is probably one of the best Miata roads around. Just don't get stuck behind a dump truck.
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