miata noob
 

but not an FI noob...
ive been bulding boosted hondas for quite some time now and have a pretty good understanding about FI and assosiated mods.

i have a friend driving from montreal to my home town in ny so i can put a begi kit on for him(93 miata)...it would cost him a second mortgage on the house.
i wouldnt say im nervous about this, just concerned considering i have 9 days to do te install and tune!!!! why did i agree to this
his full kits is complete with:
ram/knuckle stryle manifold-kinds looks cheap if i say so myself
turbo-i want to say 28rs with a moded cold side for MAF adaptor or some shit
oil feed and return-thats all good
lsd rear axels and clutch is all taken care of

than comes to managment.
im 100% honda..standalone plays no role in my life so this kinda erks me a little..i have a big e46 guy helping me so im half nervous.fuck
the managment is megasquirt pnp..red/white box
looks pretty stright forward..plug and play setup. i like.

after the install of the pnp will a base map be provided on the squirt?
id figure an ignitor would at least be equiped for initial start up and easy driving to the tuner?
i was shown a "ait" sensor delete..i think
was told deletes MAF and all maf assosiated parts?
ss bung was supplied.i take it this is welded within 48 inches of the intake mani to act as a maf singnal.

on to the next questions.
ive uncovered a couple build threads just to see what im getting into..looks easy enough...
coolant byspass?
why are people doing this?
just creating ports for water cooled bb turbos?


thank you for reading all this shit..i relize you have prolly answered these questions 12 times already..jay

the coolant reroute is only really needed on track cars. Water is pumped from the front of the motor...out the front of the motor. The reroute fixes this.

thank you..one thing i cna knock off the list

Ok man chill out
all miatas come with ignitors stock
Megasquirt eliminates a maf sensor all together, all you need is the AIT sensor wich your listed on things you have. Most people put this sensor somewhere post IC etc so the megasquirt can use the information to adjust your fuel and timming maps.
All megasquirts are shipped with a decent base map from what i hear. Although you will have to sink the timming of the unit and your car to make sure your adjustments and initial timming are the same. And the tunning is dead on simple man.
I have never fucked with hondata etc but the megatune interface is quite fluid and userfreindly. If you want an alternative map that is closer to your setup maybe you should let us know what size injectors and boost you plan to run man, and one of us who has a setup similiar can send you there files.

Over all they are simple light fun and durable cars man. just remeber they are rear wheel drive though :P

i have a very good friend tuning the car....
he knows megasquirt very well so im not too worried.
iat problem is figured out im pretty sure i know where im shoving it.
i believe rc 440cc will be used..the owner if hoping for around 250whp
ive seen 440's make around 300whp with a 97% duty so im not to worried..
plus i dont think the bottom end would be happy with any more power..

car will be arriving friday....
1.get mega pnp running
2.pull motor
3pull 93 drive triain
4.instal clutch/turbo parts
5.re install motor/trans and lsd rear/axles
6.street tune on the way to dyno.
7.hairy burnouts in a car meant for girls...profit
thanks guys

lol sounds like you have it covered, make sure you are putting in the 1.8 dif though everything else is good for 250+whp easy.

yes im pretty sure that is rear end going in...
ok good i was alittle worried about the power..thanks for you info meng

I was curious about the cooling myself, thanks

What turbo, what size exhaust, how much boost?

Also the bung you mentioned may be intended for a wideband.

Make sure you take the red fuse out before turning the key on. It is a 2 week down time and $50.00 mistake if you don't.

Ask me how I know.

Good Luck!

hustler; I try my darnest to not disagree with you but in this instance I have to. I was never happy with the Miata's coolant operating temp and had to go through not 1 but 2 blown headgaskets before I finally said enough is enough.

The Miata factory coolant route SUCKS BIG TIME. If he's going to be installing the turbo kit in his friend's car; he should think about doing the reroute at the same time and get it over with.

To the OP: if you want to see proof of what I just said, put another water temp gauge in the car and see the results for yourself. I'm sure others (with much more mechanical knowledge than me) will disagree but; I don't think 215* operating temp is appropriate.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck with the project and welcome aboard.

Why not? 280 I'd worry about. 215 isn't bad when the factory thermostat doesn't open untill 190. Where are you pulling the temp data from?

From my Autometer gauge and my AEM ems. I log it constantly. I assume it also has to do with ambient temps where one lives. We have 90* and 80% humidity days basically all year round. And I use a 165* thermostat. I have my fans set to turn on at 175*.

BTW, my Autometer thermosensor is located in the pipe coming out of the back of the head so those temps are from the coolant coming out of the engine (before going through the radiator).

we got a couple bungs so i think were covered...
turbo size is kinda weak in my eyes...gt28r i believe..i would have liked to go bigger but thats what the begi kit offered.

i would like for him to go with a bigger exhaust too...hes currently running a buddy club spec 2...2.5' OD so it should be fine for around 250-275...
i would love for him to upgrade to a 3' but eehhh fuck it

and unless i can get the coolant re-route to my house within the next 2 days its not looking so good

You can do it yourself to there kits just make it abit faster and easier is all. Check some of our other members out who did writeups on it. The gt28rs is perfect for his power gaols. But if say he wants 300whp awhile down the raod then a 3071, or 3270 would be more appropriate.

I'm going to disagree with Rafa on the reroute. I daily drive mine. It sees 15psi often every day. I'm in a lot of stop and go traffic as well. Even over the past weekend when it hit close to 90F I didn't overheat. Did I mention I have a stock radiator? The only cooling mod I have is shrouding the entire mouth to the radiator. Temps never get into the 200's. If you track the car, by all means get a bigger rad and a reroute. If it's a daily driver a little DIY work with some plastic will save you a pile of cash and headache.

i think ill go the shroud route..thank you.
ill post pics as the install goes....

You sure can disagree with me. I prefaced my own post.

FWIW; lucky you that you see those kinds of temps. I blew 2 headgaskets due to high coolant temps before doing something about it.

BEGI has two coolant reroutes. One that comes with the kits and the other is a full reroute.

The one that comes with the kits i would not do if your live up North AKA NY. Reason Why you ask. The BEGI Coolent Reroute By passes the thermostat by routing the heater hose to the Radiator. On extremely cold days, your car may never heat up. I had this problem last year when it snowed in Houston, I drove for 30min and my needle just made it to the 1/4 mark.

I would change the radiator to a larger size and leave the Half reroute off.

The full reroute is awesome, it takes the coolant from the correct side of the motor and promotes even cooling, but does so in the same manor as the factory Protege cooling system would. This I recommend 100%. If you are crafty enough you can build this your self for $50 bucks.

Well, I can honestly say your are the first to call our manifolds cheap looking. Personally, the Honda stuff I have seen is the cheap, Chinese crap. Not our manifolds. I think I am taking offense to this.

Um, and there is no MAF adapter on the turbo. If he ordered a MS PNP, there is a tube to eliminate the MAF.

Shoot me an e-mail if you need a map.

Yes there is an EXTRA bung, however, you should not need it. If the customer ordered a speed density kit, then the temp sensor bung is already on the throttle inlet tube.

No, you already have ports off of the front thermostat housing. It is located on the front, center of the motor. Just above the belts. The return line will go on the new lower radiator hose.

In case you need to read up on what you are doing, here are the instructions for the turbo kits:
http://www.bellengineering.net/articles.php?tPath=31
Stephanie

[QUOTE=Stephanie Turner;404802]Well, I can honestly say your are the first to call our manifolds cheap looking. Personally, the Honda stuff I have seen is the cheap, Chinese crap. Not our manifolds. I think I am taking offense to this.

im sorry your taking offense but that how i feel...your right about the cheap honda knock off parts...but just like any hobbie..theres good, and bad parts.

honda has cheesy ebay manifolds from companies like ssautocrome and xs power.
but then there are companies like afi and peakboost that sport welds and bends only a robot could produce..

not saying your manifolds are complete garbage but i just have concerns on a couple things.

there is no solid heat pattern on the beads..its hit or miss all over the place...wich worries me about penetration and strength.

there is no bead....the welds are tig for sure..but there is no hand control.it looks like the welder started-then stopped to produce the ever so popular "stack of dimes affect"

sorry if you take offense but thats how i feel

I agree, with all my likes and dislikes with the begi setup, I wouldnt call a manifold, on any of their kits cheap.

The S2 Manifold, is very nice, and the S4 is a work of art! Many of the Ebay manifolds that I have seen are not a cast and will crack, the S2 one that i have I dont think will ever have that problem.

nah bree trust me the begi stuff is mostly hand made by corky bell. I have'nt seen any issues with them at all as far as stability etc, quality etc. For the money its a good deal man.

no i understand what you guys are saying..the kit is very nice and a great deal for the price..
the turbo is a true garret and looks flawless
the downpipe and hoses look up to par and everything else is very nice..
the manifold is the only part that bothers me...
another question..are the head and turbo flanges 304 as well?

When Installing anything on the car, I always figure it'll take about 1.5 times how long I think it'll take. Sounds like you're doing a lot in nine days, and not leave much room for any mistakes. Just the other day, I was fixing an exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold. With almost everything back together, I was tightening litterally the last screw, which happened to be the oil feed banjo bolt, and it snapped in two. Took me two hours to find a place in town that carried an M10x1.25 banjo bolt, and drive out to get it.

You described a lot of work even for me to do in nine days, and I'm fairly experienced with Miata's. Good luck though, just post here if you have any issues.

I hope that you have tools! I installed the kit in about 48hrs, but I had to take alot of breaks to find tools such as a drill with a 3/4in chuck. I also made some mistakes like stripping the adapter for the oil return (duh), I was lucky I found one by accident... usually you will have to special order it.

Good Luck but i suggest that you reserve the last two days for testing leak check, and tuning.

And no offense but when ever I hear a Honda person talk about turbos, it makes me cringe.

the only thing i see that you didnt mention is a wideband sensor. I personally use the lc1 but i had a few problems with it and i think i would go aem eugo if i did it all over again. just something to think about

[QUOTE=Mikeymx5;405039]I hope that you have tools! I installed the kit in about 48hrs, but I had to take alot of breaks to find tools such as a drill with a 3/4in chuck. I also made some mistakes like stripping the adapter for the oil return (duh), I was lucky I found one by accident... usually you will have to special order it.

Good Luck but i suggest that you reserve the last two days for testing leak check, and tuning.

And no offense but when ever I hear a Honda person talk about turbos, it makes me cringe.[/QUOTE]

ahah really?...alot of honda owners suck..but the ones that know what there doing are usually pretty skilled.

i thought i mentioned monitoring?
yes i am installing the aem wideband...
even tho the megapnp is set up for an lc1 i will convert the setting to the aem so i can reap the benifits of megatune

Man! Sounds like you've got it under control...

Look forward to finished pics, will check back(even though it's finals week) to see if you need troubleshooting help before then.

I just finished turboing mine last month, so a lot of the "dipshit...you forgot to check this" moments are still fresh in my mind.

haha thanks ill keep you in mind

I will agree with you on that one,

lol Bree you keep on leading us on like this and we will demand high quality pics from you man. Its not often we get a noob who isnt realy a noob, and is willing to evaluate things independantly. :D

ha...ill try not to ruin my o so new reputation

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took it all apart just to relize i couldnt clock the motherfucker
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http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/r...jay/148jpg.jpg
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so the waterneck from the block was really being a rotten ---- and hitting the compressor housing....
i found the fix on begi...unfortunately i didnt feel like spending 300bucks on the begi water neck so i modded the stock..
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is this a charcoal box? can i throw this shit out?
http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/r...jay/169jpg.jpg
tucked up there just for now
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:yippee: :yippee:

Dammitt wrong thread. Eehh fuckit I'll have this my other build thread

Nice pics.