breetime

but not an FI noob...
ive been bulding boosted hondas for quite some time now and have a pretty good understanding about FI and assosiated mods.

i have a friend driving from montreal to my home town in ny so i can put a begi kit on for him(93 miata)...it would cost him a second mortgage on the house.
i wouldnt say im nervous about this, just concerned considering i have 9 days to do te install and tune!!!! why did i agree to this
his full kits is complete with:
ram/knuckle stryle manifold-kinds looks cheap if i say so myself
turbo-i want to say 28rs with a moded cold side for MAF adaptor or some ****
oil feed and return-thats all good
lsd rear axels and clutch is all taken care of

than comes to managment.
im 100% honda..standalone plays no role in my life so this kinda erks me a little..i have a big e46 guy helping me so im half nervous.****
the managment is megasquirt pnp..red/white box
looks pretty stright forward..plug and play setup. i like.

after the install of the pnp will a base map be provided on the squirt?
id figure an ignitor would at least be equiped for initial start up and easy driving to the tuner?
i was shown a "ait" sensor delete..i think
was told deletes MAF and all maf assosiated parts?
ss bung was supplied.i take it this is welded within 48 inches of the intake mani to act as a maf singnal.

on to the next questions.
ive uncovered a couple build threads just to see what im getting into..looks easy enough...
coolant byspass?
why are people doing this?
just creating ports for water cooled bb turbos?


thank you for reading all this ****..i relize you have prolly answered these questions 12 times already..jay

hustler

iTrader: (6)

the coolant reroute is only really needed on track cars. Water is pumped from the front of the motor...out the front of the motor. The reroute fixes this.

breetime

thank you..one thing i cna knock off the list

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Ok man chill out
all miatas come with ignitors stock
Megasquirt eliminates a maf sensor all together, all you need is the AIT sensor wich your listed on things you have. Most people put this sensor somewhere post IC etc so the megasquirt can use the information to adjust your fuel and timming maps.
All megasquirts are shipped with a decent base map from what i hear. Although you will have to sink the timming of the unit and your car to make sure your adjustments and initial timming are the same. And the tunning is dead on simple man.
I have never fucked with hondata etc but the megatune interface is quite fluid and userfreindly. If you want an alternative map that is closer to your setup maybe you should let us know what size injectors and boost you plan to run man, and one of us who has a setup similiar can send you there files.

Over all they are simple light fun and durable cars man. just remeber they are rear wheel drive though :P

breetime

i have a very good friend tuning the car....
he knows megasquirt very well so im not too worried.
iat problem is figured out im pretty sure i know where im shoving it.
i believe rc 440cc will be used..the owner if hoping for around 250whp
ive seen 440's make around 300whp with a 97% duty so im not to worried..
plus i dont think the bottom end would be happy with any more power..

car will be arriving friday....
1.get mega pnp running
2.pull motor
3pull 93 drive triain
4.instal clutch/turbo parts
5.re install motor/trans and lsd rear/axles
6.street tune on the way to dyno.
7.hairy burnouts in a car meant for girls...profit
thanks guys

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

lol sounds like you have it covered, make sure you are putting in the 1.8 dif though everything else is good for 250+whp easy.

breetime

yes im pretty sure that is rear end going in...
ok good i was alittle worried about the power..thanks for you info meng

HandofTron

I was curious about the cooling myself, thanks

evank

iTrader: (2)

What turbo, what size exhaust, how much boost?

Also the bung you mentioned may be intended for a wideband.

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

Make sure you take the red fuse out before turning the key on. It is a 2 week down time and $50.00 mistake if you don't.

Ask me how I know.

Good Luck!

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

hustler; I try my darnest to not disagree with you but in this instance I have to. I was never happy with the Miata's coolant operating temp and had to go through not 1 but 2 blown headgaskets before I finally said enough is enough.

The Miata factory coolant route SUCKS BIG TIME. If he's going to be installing the turbo kit in his friend's car; he should think about doing the reroute at the same time and get it over with.

To the OP: if you want to see proof of what I just said, put another water temp gauge in the car and see the results for yourself. I'm sure others (with much more mechanical knowledge than me) will disagree but; I don't think 215* operating temp is appropriate.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck with the project and welcome aboard.

BenR

iTrader: (2)

Why not? 280 I'd worry about. 215 isn't bad when the factory thermostat doesn't open untill 190. Where are you pulling the temp data from?

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

From my Autometer gauge and my AEM ems. I log it constantly. I assume it also has to do with ambient temps where one lives. We have 90* and 80% humidity days basically all year round. And I use a 165* thermostat. I have my fans set to turn on at 175*.

BTW, my Autometer thermosensor is located in the pipe coming out of the back of the head so those temps are from the coolant coming out of the engine (before going through the radiator).

breetime

we got a couple bungs so i think were covered...
turbo size is kinda weak in my eyes...gt28r i believe..i would have liked to go bigger but thats what the begi kit offered.

i would like for him to go with a bigger exhaust too...hes currently running a buddy club spec 2...2.5' OD so it should be fine for around 250-275...
i would love for him to upgrade to a 3' but eehhh **** it

and unless i can get the coolant re-route to my house within the next 2 days its not looking so good

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

You can do it yourself to there kits just make it abit faster and easier is all. Check some of our other members out who did writeups on it. The gt28rs is perfect for his power gaols. But if say he wants 300whp awhile down the raod then a 3071, or 3270 would be more appropriate.

johndoe

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to disagree with Rafa on the reroute. I daily drive mine. It sees 15psi often every day. I'm in a lot of stop and go traffic as well. Even over the past weekend when it hit close to 90F I didn't overheat. Did I mention I have a stock radiator? The only cooling mod I have is shrouding the entire mouth to the radiator. Temps never get into the 200's. If you track the car, by all means get a bigger rad and a reroute. If it's a daily driver a little DIY work with some plastic will save you a pile of cash and headache.

breetime

i think ill go the shroud route..thank you.
ill post pics as the install goes....

Rafa

iTrader: (22)

You sure can disagree with me. I prefaced my own post.

FWIW; lucky you that you see those kinds of temps. I blew 2 headgaskets due to high coolant temps before doing something about it.

Mikeymx5

iTrader: (2)

BEGI has two coolant reroutes. One that comes with the kits and the other is a full reroute.

The one that comes with the kits i would not do if your live up North AKA NY. Reason Why you ask. The BEGI Coolent Reroute By passes the thermostat by routing the heater hose to the Radiator. On extremely cold days, your car may never heat up. I had this problem last year when it snowed in Houston, I drove for 30min and my needle just made it to the 1/4 mark.

I would change the radiator to a larger size and leave the Half reroute off.

The full reroute is awesome, it takes the coolant from the correct side of the motor and promotes even cooling, but does so in the same manor as the factory Protege cooling system would. This I recommend 100%. If you are crafty enough you can build this your self for $50 bucks.

Stephanie Turner

Well, I can honestly say your are the first to call our manifolds cheap looking. Personally, the Honda stuff I have seen is the cheap, Chinese crap. Not our manifolds. I think I am taking offense to this.

Um, and there is no MAF adapter on the turbo. If he ordered a MS PNP, there is a tube to eliminate the MAF.

Shoot me an e-mail if you need a map.

Yes there is an EXTRA bung, however, you should not need it. If the customer ordered a speed density kit, then the temp sensor bung is already on the throttle inlet tube.

No, you already have ports off of the front thermostat housing. It is located on the front, center of the motor. Just above the belts. The return line will go on the new lower radiator hose.

In case you need to read up on what you are doing, here are the instructions for the turbo kits:
http://www.bellengineering.net/articles.php?tPath=31
Stephanie