No?... I thought with the 2.0 stroker kit, ported head, full valvetrain, cams,... 200 doesn't seem unreasonable for about $4k... does it? Assuming you had a Hydra or other full EMS... does it? Maybe not.

But now that we've got the whole story... Efini is right. If the number you've set is 200rwhp, this should be real easy. The Begi kit is a great choice in your pricerange and will get you far more than 200. If you're really stuck on psi, you should be able to see 200rwhp on a 1.8 with about 10-11psi using a T25.

You need to check the compression levels in each cylinder to see whether this motor is a candidate or a rebuild is in order.
... and what about all that other stuff I've been asking about.

well, as i said earlier my friend started this forum while i was away. i didnt see it until last night for the first time. he tried to answer these questions the best he could as if he were me... i know, it sounds crooked. but i am the true owner of the miata and i havent purchased any other parts to date, and i really dont know why he would think i did. like someone said earlier, more homework must be done, so thats all im trying to do now.

Well, shit, yeah, things change if you can just assume a $2,000 ECU has already been procured and paid off...just the same, a 2.0L stroker kits rings out to over $6k, assembled: http://flyinmiata.com/enginebuilder/index.php?option=1

Like I said, you could maybe shoot for 150-170rwhp for ~$4k...not including ECU. User by the name of "popstoy" has probably put $4-5k into an engine and is making like ~180 crank horsepower, as I recall.

Sorry, lots of confusion based on the fake Matt's posts.
I also assumed he'd build it himself so I was just looking at the parts cost of a full stroker kit... but moot now as the real Matt is in control.
Matt, where are you located. We might know somebody or two with a car to look at or drive to get a feel of what different power levels are like.

im just outside of pittsburgh in a small town known as beaver... yes some find the name amusing. but that sounds like a pretty good idea as far as taking a look, i dont think i'll be doing much driving at the time however (i lack a license right now) i figure i can be working on this project until then

okay, what do you guys think about this... BEGi Series 2 turbo system with intercooler #3 and the BEGi fuel system, then i'll get Xede once i save up some more money

used car salesman voice- "tell ya what, lets get you set up with a niiiiice TD04H and an HKS manifold"
seriously matt, try banging around at 180hp first, AND WITH A GOOD SUSPENSION AND BRAKE SET UP. and then see where you want to go from there, because assuming that in your case the car is 95% street driven, its still gonna be fast. I think if you sink tons of money into this engine and then blow it without starting small then youre just going to be giving everyone on this forum a great xmas, buying all your turbo stuff for cheap.

Penpen is right. Matt, I've said it several times. Throwing more power at an otherwise stock Miata is like this little guy :cjerk: Throwing 200hp at an otherwise stock Miata is borderline dangerous.

Think about it with some larger numbers. A new '06 Mustang comes with 300hp out da' box. Would you just throw on a 15psi turbo to get 600hp and do NOTHING ELSE to the car? Provided you didn't fry the clutch just backing out the driveway, you'd wrap it around the first tree of the first corner you came to. DANGEROUS!

1.8's come w/about 95-100rwhp stock(1.8 guys, is that right?). More than doubling that power with an otherwise stock car is DUMB! At a minimum, you need some good rubbber. What size wheels do you have. Here's a link to all stock Miata wheels: http://www.miata.net/faq/wheel_weights.html#weight I suspect you've got some versions of the 14" 7spoke. How to tell which one: http://www.miata.net/garage/mx5wheels/index.html
I think it probably snows where you live. I've got two sets of tires, 15"Konig Heliums w/ToyoProxesR's, and a set of stock semi-hollow spoke 14" w/Falken Zeix512's if it snows.

I would say in addition to good rubber, you also need a set of shocks. The debate can go for hours on this. The easiest good decision is a set of used KYB AGX's from a forum. http://www.miata.net/cgi-bin/isc/cla...revaction=show You could also pick up a set of swaybars and I HIGHLY RECOMMEND A ROLL BAR. Here's a good place to look at different rollbars: http://www.good-win-racing.com/mazda...me=Roll%20Bars

You could do tires/wheels/shocks/rollbar for $1000 easily sourcing used. OH YAH, NO STYLE BARS. Make sure it's an actual ROLLBAR.

YOU MUST ALSO BUDGET FOR A CLUTCH. Again, much debate. For Begi power, you'll want to go w/a stage II from someone. I'm a Spec guy, but there's also ACT, RPS, and three or four others. Do homework.

You can't go wrong w/a Begi turbo. Bell Engineering, ie Corky Bell is a legend in the turbocharging world. He won't steer you wrong and you can call his shop and talk to him. Mary or Stephanie will probably answer the phone, just tell them your story and they'll patch you through to Corky. Although Steph is getting pretty good at the technical stuff:bigtu:

Or you could grow a pair and put a kit together yourself.:gay: There's nothing like buying parts from 20 different places to give you a VERY GOOD understanding about how the thing works.

Brakes, how are they? What kind of life do you have left on the pads and rotors. You can do a new set of RPS or Hawk pads, and Goodridge lines about $250. I think stock rotors are fine for the street (again, much debate). A guy online here called Braineak has a website called rev2red.com, check with him about a deal for pads or rotors.

Matt,

Another thing to think of when wanting to make 200whp in a miata is the rear end. If your car is not equiped with an LSD, get one. Currently my '91 has the factory open diff and @ 7psi, (intercooled Greddy kit), you have to have great control of the skinny pedal in the twisties. My advice, like most others on this board, would be research, research, research and then make sure you have the rest of the car built to support that kind of power before you make the leap.

John

i completely agree with you guys about not wanting to put a turbo of that sort on a basically stock car. ive already started pricing most of the items you listed above, sam. and the really good news is i should have all of those items collected and installed before i even try to drive the car. the boost controller i was looking into getting has two boost settings, so i dont have to run around with such high boost all the time. i dont plan on driving the car in the snow, but i do plan on getting a new set of tires. i think i have the 14" 94-97 solid 7 spoke alloys.

thats a good start. ive had my car for 5 years or so and im just getting boosted. it took that long to save for and buy everything i thought i needed to run safely and reliably. that includes- Roll Bar, coilovers (highly reccomend tein flex) wheels, tires, LSD, ss brake lines, ebc pads, slotted drilled rotors, replacing just about anything that can wear out (steering rack, gaskets, belts etc) sway bars, good seat and harness, emanage, injectors, and TONS of time reading this forum.

If you only do street driving, mostly in straight lines and rarely "push it" around corners, you'll never miss the limited-slip differential.

If you do upgrade to an LSD, make sure you get a 7" from a Miata or RX-7, as the LSD in the '90-'93 cars is the same 6" size as the opens, and is every bit as weak.

if i can make 200 whp at 8 psi on my 100,004 mile 1.6 he can to he just needs atleast a t28, or 16g sized turbo so he will have the neccesary efficiency also i dont think that short of 300 whp you need anything but more attention to the motor keep good stuff in it. and you should be fine. your tranny will have problems before the motor.

yeah, most of the racing we do around here is in a straight line anyway. okay, so clutch, shocks, coilovers, brakes, tires, sway bars, and roll bar. and you really dont think i need to do anything to the motor, not even a new gasket set, even if i do spend the extra 200 bucks and get the s3 w/ the T28?

For 200rwhp, you should be perfectly fine on the stock motor, as long as you have properly tuned your fuel and timing curves.

excellent