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Old 06-27-2006, 09:07 AM   #1
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Default need some greddy oil lines

i've posted about this before, but I finally have some extra money to spend. I need a feed and return line for my greddy turbo kit. I'm planning on tapping the pan. If anyone has a suggestion on length and person to buy it from please let me know. i'm not confident enough to run to the part store and pick it out myself. thanks!!
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Old 06-27-2006, 09:33 AM   #2
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you need a m10x1.5 to -4an adapter to screw into the block. you need a 3 ft -4an stainless braided hose to run from the block adapter to the turbo, then you need either a 90* -4an to m10x1.25 elbow (with swivel ends) or 10x1.25 to -4an adapter to 90* elbow (-4an female to -4an female, swivel ends), or a banjo fitting configuration.

for -an stuff, if you can't find it locally, summit racing has it, or goto

http://www.anplumbing.com/

or

http://www.atpturbo.com

there has been discussion anout the proper size hose for the greddy and different atachment methods, so i'm going to let others suggest to you which is the best way to do that.

for the drain line, you can heat and bend the stock greddy return, so it points straight down, or try to find a threaded return. kind of like this.

i think if you called atp, told them what turbo you have and what you needed thet could help you all in one step.

a lot of this depends on how much you want to spend and what you can live with.
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:11 AM   #3
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i re-read that and it may seem a bit confusing. i don't think my coffee kicked in yet so let me try to better organize what you need and your options:

oil feed:

block-->10x1.5 to 4an adapter-->3ft 4an braided hose (female swivel ends)-->4an to 4an 90* elbow (female swivel ends)-->4an to 10x1.25 adapter-->turbo

block-->10x1.5 to 4an adapter-->3ft 4an braided hose (female swivel ends)-->4an to X adapter ( X = the thread/pitch of banjo fitting)-->banjo fitting with 10x1.25 banjo bolt-->turbo

block-->10x1.5 banjo to 3an-->3ft 3an braided hose (female swivel ends)-->3an to X adapter ( X = the thread/pitch of banjo fitting)-->banjo fitting with 10x1.25 banjo bolt-->turbo

oil drain:

turbo-->stock greddy drain-->rubber hose-->3/8" npt to hose barb-->oil pan
(i say 3/8"npt based off what FM/BEGI uses to tap the oil pan)

turbo-->threaded oil drain-->threaded adapter to hose barb-->hose-->3/8" npt to hose barb-->oil pan

turbo-->threaded oil drain-->threaded adapter to -8an or -10 an-->-8an or -10an braided hose with female swivel ends-->3/8" to -8 or -10 an adapter--> oil pan

not sure of the length of hose needed for the oil return.
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:23 AM   #4
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I would suggest 3AN fittings instead of 4AN. Compared to the stock greddy line 3AN is nearly identical.

I used Banjo fittings on both ends instead of the M10X1.5 to AN (block) and M10X1.25 to AN (Turbo).

You'll want a 90* on the turbo side.
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Old 08-23-2006, 01:56 PM   #5
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is there a significant difference to get a steel adapter or an aluminum adapter?
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:15 PM   #6
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or a combination or steel and aluminum, because i can't find a 10x1.5 to 3an adapter, but i can find a 10x1.5 to 4an adapter and a 4an to 3an adapter
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Old 08-23-2006, 02:55 PM   #7
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-4an will work, others have used it before and haven't reported problems with blowing oil seals out. -3AN appears to be closer when comparing to the stock greddy oil FITTING.

You can do both ends using a -3an to banjo adapter, and just buy the right sized banjo bolt. You'd need m10X1.25 and m10X1.5 banjo bolts. I think everything I picked up were Earl's fittings, with the exception of the 10X1.5, which was Aeroquip.

Jay
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:05 PM   #8
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Braineack put me on to this drain kit, which I ordered for my greddy turbo.

http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html

Its the TD04 one
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:14 PM   #9
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was 24" long enough for you Newbsauce? also, there isn't one for a tdo4, only the td05. is that the one you meant? or the t04? thanks
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Old 08-23-2006, 05:24 PM   #10
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Yes, the TD05 drain kit from JGS will work. And, yes, 24" is what you'll want.
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:50 PM   #11
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I dont have any way to weld a bung into my oil pan... take it somewhere or JB weld or just skip the entire tapping the oil pan and do it on the oil filter bung?
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Old 08-23-2006, 11:56 PM   #12
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Drilling and tap the pan, use JB weld to seal and call it a day. It's easy, maybe a little intimidating.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:42 AM   #13
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i think i'm gonna have my oil pan removed when my mechanic does my clutch, and have it welded on just to make sure there are no extra shaving.
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Old 08-24-2006, 02:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrillntBlk92 View Post
i think i'm gonna have my oil pan removed when my mechanic does my clutch, and have it welded on just to make sure there are no extra shaving.
If you scroll sown on this page to a bit over 1/2 way: http://bellsouthpwp.net/P/o/PopVII/G...0Part%20II.htm ... will find all the tools and instructions needed to tap the oil pan. Can get the fitting for $3 at home depot .... inflation since I made the page!

If mechanic will be pulling and installing the oil pan, plan on at least an extra $400 in labor. The first one I did I brazed in place and the second one just used JB Weld. Suggest the easiest and better method is the JB Weld. Doubt many shops will be able to weld together brass and aluminum.
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:38 AM   #15
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Yeah, the JB weld is the way to go. A couple of things, the thickness of the oil pan is thin so you'll only end up with two or three threads and that's why the JB Weld is necessary. Make sure you put on plenty around the entire nipple, do it when the engine is cool, and let it cure at least 24 hours before you start the engine. I only gave it a few hours on my first attempt and had to do it over
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Old 08-24-2006, 09:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrillntBlk92 View Post
i think i'm gonna have my oil pan removed when my mechanic does my clutch, and have it welded on just to make sure there are no extra shaving.
You still have to pull the motor to pull the pan even if the tranny is out of the way this will mean abit more money the tap and jb weld mehtod is a staple of the miata communitie. as for the lines and fittings a would go to the local hydraulic shop and ge them to make you up some teflon inner stainless lines dont use that rubber crap you will regret it. good luck
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
You still have to pull the motor to pull the pan even if the tranny is out of the way this will mean abit more money the tap and jb weld mehtod is a staple of the miata communitie. as for the lines and fittings a would go to the local hydraulic shop and ge them to make you up some teflon inner stainless lines dont use that rubber crap you will regret it. good luck
pull the engine? wouldn't i just be able to lower the crossmember? i haven't gotten a good look myself down there yet, but i have heard the crossmember sits in the way. i have an extra oil pan sitting in my garage, so i hoping to get that tapped, then just swapped out for.
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:28 PM   #18
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I think it is debatable which is more work, pulling the engine or dropping the cross member. That's why nearly everyone taps the pan in place. Once you do it you'll wonder why you stressed over it. If you don't have A/C it's easy, just disconnect the power steering line and have at it.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:34 AM   #19
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I still have an open offer to do the oil pan tap for any visitor here at my house. Want to do one with the AC and PS. Your cost is $3 for the fitting, 1/2 gallon of mineral spirits, and parts for an oil change. Your job is to take pictures so I can make a better web page.

Have all tools needed.
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:09 AM   #20
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you can tap further back on the pan if you have a right angle air tool and bits. I did it this way it gives a straighter down shot to the pan. but hey if you want to pull the entire front suspension loose and drop the subframe and then put it all back together and get it aligned then have at it. But i personally would tap the pan.
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