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Old 12-24-2010, 08:24 PM   #21
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If you don't run too much boost you can get stock 1.6 injectors to support up to 165ish whp. My friends 92 miata with a greddy kit, stock injectors, and an e-manage was running just fine at 168whp (dyno dynamics).
How does boost have anything to do with it?
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Old 12-24-2010, 08:35 PM   #22
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How does boost have anything to do with it?
Not sure what he meant but imagine that less boost = less demand for fuel.
It's still possible to keep the car from a lean condition on stock injectors running higher pressure up to a certain level right?
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Old 12-24-2010, 08:40 PM   #23
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Not sure what he meant but imagine that less boost = less demand for fuel.
It's still possible to keep the car from a lean condition on stock injectors running higher pressure up to a certain level right?
Boost is an arbitrary measurement of intake manifold restriction. It has absolutely nothing to do with how much fuel you need - if you make more power, you need more fuel.

1.6 injectors are marginal, and you'll run lean without the FPR. If you're pinched for cash, leave the FPR in place to raise the fuel pressure - increased fuel pressure is a perfectly legitimate way to add additional fuel. I use a Fuelabs FPR to raise base pressure to ~70psi in my own car.
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Old 12-24-2010, 08:53 PM   #24
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How does boost have anything to do with it?
Sorry sir, I was using boost thinking that the more boost you run the more power, therefore if he keeps the boost low and makes less power, he will not need larger injectors. Seemed simple to me. But clearly I am wrong and the amount of boost you run should have no bearing at all on what size injectors and fuelling you need.
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Old 12-24-2010, 09:00 PM   #25
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Makes sense.
I have given this a lot of thought. I want to do this as "right" as possible and could use some input. Financially, I don't want to hit the wall and not have enough for "problems". Here is what I'm thinking;
I may just install the FMU, MSD and mehanical boost gauge that came with the kit and tune as per BEGi's instructions albeit quite conservatively. (retard base about 6 deg?)
I'll shelf the AEM (good deal) and drive around a few months at about 5psi to revaluate my drivetrain for possible work that needs to happen before bigger boost. I'll also take the time to change out my rear end which I have not yet done.
In the interim, I'll also be able to buy nice injectors, a COP setup and maybe one of those fancy AEM multi gauges with custom alarms for just about everything. Thoughts on a knock sensor anyone?
This way I can do the management installation and dyno tune all at once and milk maximum benefit out of the tune time.
How unsafe is this kind of scheme? Can the FMU and MSD be trusted in your experience?
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Old 12-24-2010, 09:13 PM   #26
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Ditch the MSD and install your AEM - you can leave the FPR in place to bump the pressure on the 1.6 injectors, but the AEM will give you control over the curves as well as much more timing map control.

If you're using the FMU with a stock ECU to boost fuel, it's a bit of a bandaid, but the ECU will let you fine-tune the setup so that you get the most out of it - like I said, I run an FPR with my AEM. Ideally you would just use a larger injector, but there's nothing wrong with using small injectors and more fuel pressure - you won't leave any power or safety on the table going that route.
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Old 12-24-2010, 09:25 PM   #27
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That does seem like a sensible solution. Trouble is, I'm not savvy enough to street tune an AEM myself. I'll turn wrenches all day long but computer tuning is out of my comfort zone.
If I pay what the shops in my area have asked to tune it on their dyno, I'll be tapping out my budget right now.
Cheapest offer I got was $380 if I bring a base map from BEGI.
They don't even have a base map for AEM, only MS.
I'm a little afraid of emptying my wallet because its my daily driver and a rear end catastrophe I cant afford to fix would really suck.
You still think the AEM should go in?
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Old 12-25-2010, 01:53 AM   #28
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If the car runs safely for now, there's no harm in waiting a little bit.
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Old 02-16-2011, 01:06 PM   #29
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Default Ladies and gentlemen!


For whatever reason I can't get the pic to embed but here is a link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5450728349/
In the end, I had to lose the cartech FMU and stock injectors and replace them with RX8 injectors.
Its currently making 168 horses at the rear wheels and about 178 ft lbs of torque. this may sound quite wimpy to many of you 250 folks but the limiting factor in the tune is the point where the clutch starts to slip.
I can't really afford to do the clutch and 1.6 rear end right now so I'm staying right where I am and am quite content (for a while).
The car is SO much more fun and there is hardly any useable RPM beneath the point where boost is instantly available. All of my Super vs. Turbo woes were completely unfounded. I LOVE THIS THING and don't really understand why it did not come from the factory this way.

One question, is it normal to have a pretty pervasive gas smell when idling a turbo car at a stoplight? Does this mean I am running too rich even though the wideband says otherwise?

Last edited by Hemiarch; 02-16-2011 at 01:17 PM.
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:16 AM   #30
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cool man i cant wait to get my r package turbo'd!
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:28 AM   #31
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Tuning yourself is a hairy thing. Some can do it som can't. If you do try. start rich and low timing. Better to fry plugs than pistons.
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