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Old 02-21-2007, 07:15 PM   #1
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So i'm geting pricing for the kit. But for some reason im scared to blow the motor. What should i check to make sure nothing will go?... I went over the FAQ page but dont seem like enough?.. and other problems

1. I live in an apartment in san diego with no garage, Sould i buy this kit an try to do it out in the nice weather over the weekend under the shelter?

2. Would i need to buy anyhting other than the what the kit provides so im not stuck halfway in the install with out parts...
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:32 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOOINEY View Post
So i'm geting pricing for the kit. But for some reason im scared to blow the motor. What should i check to make sure nothing will go?... I went over the FAQ page but dont seem like enough?.. and other problems

1. I live in an apartment in san diego with no garage, Sould i buy this kit an try to do it out in the nice weather over the weekend under the shelter?

2. Would i need to buy anyhting other than the what the kit provides so im not stuck halfway in the install with out parts...
It's impossible to predict the future on your engine blowing, but there's no reason to think it's going to. Things you should check before you start is doing plenty of tuning research. Then you'll know what conponents are necessary, and that no, you don't have to worry about your engine blowing. This assumes the obvious up to date maintenance. You could do a compression check as well.

1. Something will cause a problem, delays will happen. It's that simple. That said, round up your boys, start Friday night, ignore apartment manager

2. If it's a kit, then you should be good to go.
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:52 PM   #3
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Don't worry man, I did mine in front of my apartment in a day easy. Have the relief cuts done beforehand and be prepared to clearance the water line bracket, I used a dremel.

FWIW, my apartment manager gave me some flak too, but what're they going to do??
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:52 PM   #4
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Do the compression check and make sure that no cylinders are low or that there is a big variance in the numbers. Change out the timing belt and the water pump if you are unsure of their condition. And give the car a general tune up to get it running in tip top condition. If it is high mileage, the head will have to be rebuilt (50/50 chance here). Good luck
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:37 PM   #5
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To start off, if you are worried about the integrity of your motor, do a compression or leak down test (like everyone has suggested).

2nd: Invest in a wideband O2 sensor and gauge at the same time your purchase your FI system. A bad tune will lead to engine knock, which will kill your engine. The AFR gauge allows you to see if you are running rich/lean etc..

3rd: Don't over rev the motor. Be nice to the transmission. yadda, yadda

4th: Plenty of people boost older engines. IF you do blow the motor, it is just an excuse to upgrade to a 1.8L.

Stephanie
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Old 02-22-2007, 04:30 AM   #6
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Would it be smarter to buy the emanage with the kit.. or buy a wideband ?
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Old 02-22-2007, 11:23 PM   #7
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Damn. I am amazaed at what some people are capable of on this forum. A Turbo install without a garage... Amazing... Well here are my 2c. I would say it is doable but be very patient.

Don't rush throught the install. If its not ur first turbo install, you'll be ok.

Was the first one for me. I managed to snap the oil fitting and thus delayed my install by almost a week waiting for a replacemenet to arive. Getting the manifold removed was a pain as well. Especially the side that attached to the exhaust. Make sure you spray it before you work on it. And then spray again... I actually had to heat the bolts up to get em to move.

Make sure that the water line bracket doesn't get in the way of the manifold. I got caught on that one too. Car sounded awsome, but was undrivable.

If you have a strut bar, it can't be used with this kit unless you relocate the filter. Mine faces the radiator and is pushed down.

Replace the bolts for some nice 10.9 grade. Get some extra copper washers in case you screw up the ones that come with the kit. I did...

Gluck.

Last edited by beasty555; 02-22-2007 at 11:26 PM. Reason: Spelling sux...
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Old 02-23-2007, 12:31 AM   #8
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Buy both, or buy a wideband and then save up for the megasquirt. There is a lot of support on this forum for the megasquirt. I have the EMB, and wish I would have bought a megasquirt now. You definately need the wideband though. Plan that into your budget now. I thought that I was not going to get one, but quickly realized that when I up the boost, doing my own tuning is so much more satisfying.
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Old 02-23-2007, 04:11 AM   #9
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This isn't anyhting new to me being that my last car "was" (sold it last monday) a 240sx/SR20DET. So i know all about turbos and tunning but only on that engine.The B6 seems to be a whole new ground to me. And the garage problem is because i know no one in san diego with cars yet but maybe i will get lucky a find a garage to use.

Back to topic... When I go to upgrade, megasquirt is the way to go i see. Do i need piggyback for just the basic kit tunning? or wait a just jump to standalone when needed? And for widdebands i've used the AEM UEGO but it was hard to seat tune with. Anyone know of one that data logs for a desent price?
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Old 02-23-2007, 08:34 AM   #10
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Lc-1
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Old 02-23-2007, 02:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOOINEY View Post
i know all about turbos and tunning but only on that engine.
So you know nothing about turbos and tunning then... you just know how to work on nissans. Turbos are a simple system, if you understand one you understand them all. Tuning is the same affair... the only thing that varies is the ecu, software, and technic.

I'm sorry, but you sound ignorant.
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Old 02-23-2007, 04:31 PM   #12
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

Doesn't seem engine specific to me :gay:
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Old 02-23-2007, 08:43 PM   #13
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I know how turbos work... If you have ever tuned an swaped SR with vented bov with hot wire MAF on a SAFC then you know what im talking about... Alot of tweaking done with little things as such temp out side and warm up times before boosting. So im wondering things such as is it picky with air flow?.
Such as?
1. Can the MAF on the B6 burn out do to boosting being its for N/A?
2. Does it have problems with backfiring with vetned BOV on flap MAF?
3. Does the flap MAF react with minor boost leaks?

So its more i dont know the turbo "systems" on the miata.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOOINEY View Post
I know how turbos work... If you have ever tuned an swaped SR with vented bov with hot wire MAF on a SAFC then you know what im talking about... Alot of tweaking done with little things as such temp out side and warm up times before boosting. So im wondering things such as is it picky with air flow?.
Such as?
1. Can the MAF on the B6 burn out do to boosting being its for N/A?
2. Does it have problems with backfiring with vetned BOV on flap MAF?
3. Does the flap MAF react with minor boost leaks?

So its more i dont know the turbo "systems" on the miata.
1. No.
2. No. Provided your bov doesn't leak at idle.
3. See 2.

4. I don't like you.
5. "Alot of tweaking done with little things as such temp out side and warm up times before boosting." -wtf do those factors have to do with tuning? If your ecu can't deal with IAT changes then you need a new ECU. If you can't let your car warm up before you "start boosting" and you care about such things, then you have poor self control.
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Old 02-23-2007, 10:46 PM   #15
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Wow nvm... im not going to explain. But thanks for the help kinda
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Old 07-28-2007, 10:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Arkmage View Post
1. No.
2. No. Provided your bov doesn't leak at idle.
3. See 2.

4. I don't like you.
5. "Alot of tweaking done with little things as such temp out side and warm up times before boosting." -wtf do those factors have to do with tuning? If your ecu can't deal with IAT changes then you need a new ECU. If you can't let your car warm up before you "start boosting" and you care about such things, then you have poor self control.
what a hater!
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Old 07-28-2007, 10:56 PM   #17
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I put my Greddy kit on my engine with 151k miles on the clock and it still runs strong. Although I think I might be burning oil a little, but I am in the process of building up a Japanese import engine to replace mine.
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