Turbo to manifold studs: 300ZX Inconel or 304SS threaded rod (Hey, Leafy, over here)
#1
Turbo to manifold studs: 300ZX Inconel or 304SS threaded rod (Hey, Leafy, over here)
I have a FMII kit. The rear two turbo studs popped yesterday. I have to go to school tomorrow. Today's my last whole day to fix anything.
I read the "epic" thread and saw that TSE's 10 mm studs are the way to go for hard track use. However, I don't know that my car will ever see the track. I'd like to avoid drilling and tapping for 10 mm. I could possibly do it at the machine shop at school, but not on my DD. Too risky.
I can pick up a meter of 304SS M8x1.25 threaded rod from Fastenal for $13 today. Laur3ns seemed to have great success with the 304SS on the track, which would seem to indicate that it is more than capable for street use.
If I had 15+ posts I could PM Leafy, who mentioned the 8 mm 300ZX Inconel studs. Leafy, have you actually used them? Do they fit? I read some posts that call into question the thread pitch on the different sides. Are they long enough?
I can get a set of those tomorrow from the dealer for $26 or so.
I read the "epic" thread and saw that TSE's 10 mm studs are the way to go for hard track use. However, I don't know that my car will ever see the track. I'd like to avoid drilling and tapping for 10 mm. I could possibly do it at the machine shop at school, but not on my DD. Too risky.
I can pick up a meter of 304SS M8x1.25 threaded rod from Fastenal for $13 today. Laur3ns seemed to have great success with the 304SS on the track, which would seem to indicate that it is more than capable for street use.
If I had 15+ posts I could PM Leafy, who mentioned the 8 mm 300ZX Inconel studs. Leafy, have you actually used them? Do they fit? I read some posts that call into question the thread pitch on the different sides. Are they long enough?
I can get a set of those tomorrow from the dealer for $26 or so.
#3
I'm still curious about the 300ZX studs, so if anyone has info on those, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Now to see a) if I can get the turbo off and b) if I can get the broken studs out.
This will be fun. Good thing it's 20 degrees out and I don't have a garage handy. Grumble mumble complain.
#8
Its the same thread and should be more or less the same length for all T2 flange turbos. I recently found 2 nuts that loosened but they were the impossible to tighten ones so I'm currently going with the explanation that the nuts were not tight enough, the studs are not elongated. These are the studs I used. 1 of them I had to put the longer threaded side into the manifold, but that should be an EFR only problem.
#9
Its the same thread and should be more or less the same length for all T2 flange turbos. I recently found 2 nuts that loosened but they were the impossible to tighten ones so I'm currently going with the explanation that the nuts were not tight enough, the studs are not elongated. These are the studs I used. 1 of them I had to put the longer threaded side into the manifold, but that should be an EFR only problem.
I went to the 10mm ones because the car was apart, and I would rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
#10
Lovely
If I can get these out with some left hand drill bits and the threads are still OK, I think I'll stick with 8 mm and grab some Nissan Inconel (thanks guys for the part no. confirmation). If I can't get them out, I'll have it drilled and tapped for 10 mm and get some RX7 Inconel studs.
If I've learned anything from this process, it's that I don't want to do it again. What a hassle. I'm thankful I have access to another car to get me to school for the next few days.
#13
Belgium.
I tried left hand drill bits first - no luck. Bought a cheap easy-out kit from HF - size gaps between tools rendered it unusable.
I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and have a shop drill it out to 10 mm and get the RX-7 studs. As for drilling out the turbo flange, I have no idea what I'm going to do at the moment. Try as I might, I couldn't disconnect the coolant lines from the bottom, so I'd love if I could operate on the housing without removing it from the engine bay. However, I don't think that'd be a terribly good idea.
Urgh. The upside to jumping to 10 mm is that I'll likely never have to touch them again. The car probably won't ever see the track and will only be autocrossed infrequently.
I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and have a shop drill it out to 10 mm and get the RX-7 studs. As for drilling out the turbo flange, I have no idea what I'm going to do at the moment. Try as I might, I couldn't disconnect the coolant lines from the bottom, so I'd love if I could operate on the housing without removing it from the engine bay. However, I don't think that'd be a terribly good idea.
Urgh. The upside to jumping to 10 mm is that I'll likely never have to touch them again. The car probably won't ever see the track and will only be autocrossed infrequently.
#14
I tried left hand drill bits first - no luck. Bought a cheap easy-out kit from HF - size gaps between tools rendered it unusable.
I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and have a shop drill it out to 10 mm and get the RX-7 studs. As for drilling out the turbo flange, I have no idea what I'm going to do at the moment. Try as I might, I couldn't disconnect the coolant lines from the bottom, so I'd love if I could operate on the housing without removing it from the engine bay. However, I don't think that'd be a terribly good idea.
Urgh. The upside to jumping to 10 mm is that I'll likely never have to touch them again. The car probably won't ever see the track and will only be autocrossed infrequently.
I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and have a shop drill it out to 10 mm and get the RX-7 studs. As for drilling out the turbo flange, I have no idea what I'm going to do at the moment. Try as I might, I couldn't disconnect the coolant lines from the bottom, so I'd love if I could operate on the housing without removing it from the engine bay. However, I don't think that'd be a terribly good idea.
Urgh. The upside to jumping to 10 mm is that I'll likely never have to touch them again. The car probably won't ever see the track and will only be autocrossed infrequently.
#19
To update my progress:
I called scores of local machine shops and none were especially willing to take a job this small. Only one said they would, and it'd be $50 (a minimum charge). I went back at trying to remove the pieces and got one out, but the other continued to defy the extraction attempts. I dropped it off with a small engine mechanic friend who said he may be able to get the rest out. I'll be checking back in with him later on.
I hope I can stay with 8 mm. I really don't want to drill out the flange if I can avoid it.