Hi all, I recently purchased a 93 NA with a Greddy turbo kit. As usual the bolts have backed off and I've had to send out the manifold to a machine shop. In the mean time I've noticed that the car is missing the Vortech fuel riser. The previous owner did not know much about the car but he said it was tuned. I'm not sure how much I believe that as the car cuts fuel @5psi 3500-5000 rpm range at WOT. So can anyone tell me specifically what fuel riser I would need? There are several on the Vortech site. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/product.php?p=31

Also I would like to know If I should also get the flyin miata o2 Clamp in supplement to the Fuel riser.

My goals for the car are a reliable day driver that I may take to a few track days until I get the motor rebuilt on my actual Race car.



Thanks In advance.

 

The car doesnt cut fuel. It starves and missfires due to being SO lean it cant even burn the fuel.

For Fu_ks sakes, stop driving it and get a megsaquirt.
It wont last a week like this.

Dann

 

Few things to clarify. I only picked up the car a week ago and took it off the road soon as I got it back. I drove it almost 500 miles home without issue. The plugs on the car are perfect which makes me wonder if indeed there is some sort of tune.. which I will look into before I put it on. And I drove it for a few days before the turbo became a bigger problem. I can't afford a megasquirt nor the tuning and this is my daily so I need to get it on the road and reliable as quickly as I can. I know the Vortech is not ideal but It's all I can afford at the moment and would only be to tide me over until I can afford to get it properly tuned.

 

Remove the turbo then, or cheaper, wire the wastegate open.

Dann

 

First you need to investigate whether there are larger injectors installed and open the ECU area under the passenger footwell to see if there have been any changes or additions.

 

I will say one thing. I don't see the factory 1.6 AFM...

 

I know I totally need to open the ECU and will as soon as I get the car back. I just moved and just had it towed to a shop to fix the broken manifold bolts.

JTpaintball: That brings up a good point if there is no afm would that mean there is some sort of engine management? If it were the stock ECU the car would basically not run at all I assume?
I know the other car I drove with the Greddy kit did have it for sure.
Is it common to remove the afm on these cars for one reason or another? I know the car has been tracked and at least 3 owners have had it with the turbo kit.

If there was 0 fuel management I would think the motor would have grenaded long ago. The plugs do not show lean or rich whatsoever.
How would I be able to discern the larger injectors for stock ones?

I'm not new to cars but I am with Mazdas.And I'm trying to make it as reliable as possible as quickly as possible within a reasonable budget. There's alot of issues besides what I'm mentioning now.

My story briefly is I got caught in a bad situation and ended up without a car, I purchased this last minute and am on a limited time table before I have to drive to work every day again,so pardon me if I sound ignorant. I'm just in panic mode. Thanks for everyone's help in advance.

 

Follow the tubes off the intake manifold (might be one off the rear of it too) and see if they go to a little black box :-)

 

Definitely running some kind of aftermarket fuel management due to the lack of AFM (Unless is is in a blow-through setup). It also looks like the fuel injectors aren't stock. The one I can see in that picture looks yellow, almost like the valve cover. Maybe they've been painted.

 

Where are you located? Maybe one of the members can help you figure it out.

 

Are there any gauges in the car?

 

The car is guilty until proven innocent.

For all you know, the spark plugs look perfect because the previous owner replaced them an hour before you arrived to look at the car.

+1 on "where are you located" - it bugs me to no end that newbs have an issue with putting their location in their profile, yet their concerns could be most easily addressed by having someone nearby actually look at their car.

You made your first minor mistake buying someone else's project and needing it to be your "immediate daily driver". Disconnect the wastegate actuator until you understand what's going on with your car, and your "minor" mistake stands a much smaller chance of becoming a "major" mistake.

 

The only gauge in the car is a boost Gauge. I have no problem with displaying my location, I created the profile at 4am so I didn't have time to fill it out. I'm in San Diego. Thanks for everyone's help thus far. With the research I have done there are no EProm options available for this car is that correct? If so, if I crack the ECU I should be see a daughterboard soldered onto the ecu if it is running some aftermarket support.
I know of the voodoo box, hydra, aem,megasquirt and the powercard as stand alones and they would be obvious. I guess my main concern is that it is running fuel tuning somewhere and I'd like to be able to tell what I'm running and just seeing if there are any exotic options that I'm maybe unaware of that I should be looking for. My main worry is that it 'stumbles from 4-5k but everywhere else it runs smooth as can be, which is why I was concerned there was no tune at all.

 

Pull the carpet and take a look. It should be pretty obvious if its a standalone vs stock ECU.

 

Take pictures and post them including the injectors

 

Will do as soon as I get it back from the machine shop!

 

Whats the wideband say under boost?

 

Looks like two vacuum lines are going into the firewall on the passenger side. It's probably a megasquirt PNP with the onboard map sensor. Could also be a f/ic as you can eliminate the MAF with that as well. One of the vacuum lines will probably be going to the sensor for your gauge, and the other to the ECU.

 

Hmm, I'd think a MegaSquirt would include a AFR gauge. But I've been surprised before.

Blaen, if the PO replacd the plugs they wouldn't look good after 500 miles.

Inthink you're fine, I'm going with "innocent until proven guilty".

And to clarify, the miata ECU (stock) is completely unmoddable. A few folks have changed the crystal frequency (by soldering a new one), there by upping the rev limit. It's an unknown factor though, the same crystal won't make the same change on two different miatas.

And that's it.

So you're not opening up the ECU, you're opening the foot rest on top of the ecu to access it. Anyaftermarket ecu will be painfully obvious.

 

Wut? I posted in this thread before now?