Tightening begi upper and lower downpipes - Leaking - Loosening
 

Alright i'm sure i'm not the one to say this, who the hell designed this damn thing? You cant fit a wrench to tighten it, if you dont tighten it enough it leaks a LOT, i tried to force a socket on there and this is how tight i was able to get it. I'm at a point where i'm about to weld the sucker up and put a big fukin roll of high temp tape on there. i've just about had it with it. I tried using a clamp, you cant fit it at all since the damn bolt is in the way, i tried tightening it a lot but you cant do that either since again there is no clearance for even a thin wall socket on there. I tried to force one but this is what happened... then i had to brake off the other end just to get the damn thing off...

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Solutions anyone?

weld it? use a spring?

if i weld them together do you think i can take the entire thing out of the car and then put it back in? I mean it makes no sense for begi to make it 2 piece if 1 piece can fit.

Wouldn't think you could. I'd either weld it up and have it cut somewhere that you can weld a 3-bolt flange on (check and double check clearance) or weld two more small little tubes like that on the other side and try either two bolts, or two springs.

I've had 0 problems with the bolt they provided for that. The downpipe to turbo connections come loose but not that midpipe connection.

mine was fine, but I'd much rather have a v-band clamp there for an additional $50 or whatever.

the Vband is a good options but sadly i bought the kit from another guy here :(

from the looks of it i'll get a 7-8" bolt with some big spacers this way it will stick out few inches and i can fit a socket on the end of the bolt and see if i can tighten it good and then have few welds done where they can weld since i dont know what to do. I have been laying under the car every day since i installed the kit messing with this same bolt over and over. I tighten it it loosens and my exhaust starts rattling. I tighten it it loosens and starts rattling and leaking.. I am afraid to drive the damn thing because the bolt will fall off and the lower pipe will fall and catch on something on the ground as there is nothing holding the lower pipe up to the rest of the car.

i had the exact same problem. The design of this thing is horrible. I spent days trying to figure out how to make it not leak. It came loose on me a few times when getting on a highway. What i did was to get a 2.5" exhaust clamp like this

http://www.pumabuild.co.uk/catalog/i...aust-Clamp.jpg

And tightened the crap out of it.

works pretty good.

Thank you sir, i was about to get a bolt and tighten the crap out of it so i can get it welded here and there (wherever the welder can reach through) tomorrow just so it prevents it from falling off and then i was going to use the same clamp. It sucks having to redesign the damn thing when its all on your DD.

It works pretty good now with my car and does not even leak.

Jeff just had the same problem. I welded it together just tonight. So far no leaks.

did you weld it out of the car and then put it in the car or what?

I have the older FM kit, which is a begi design. It had a flange and four welded in bolt "studs" around it. IT gave me no end of problems... Then I bought a $25 (coulda been 15, coulda been 30) chinese v-band set up - both flanges and the clamp. Put it on and it's been the ONLY trouble thing on the car PERIOD since I did it.

Must be cursed.

pic of old set up:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/Miata/Modif...42_z3n8Y-L.jpg

Today i bought a 12" 1/4-20 threaded rod, i cut it to 8.5". Also bought a 2" long pipe, 2 1/4-20 locknuts and a 1/4-24 nut with ears (dont know the name of it) just like the one in the first pic. I tightened the nut with ears outside of the car.. it will be very tight since its the wrong thread. Use vicegrips to hold the rod and then use pliers to hold the nut. Tighten it so its about 1/2" into the rod. Then you shuv that rod from the rear of the car forward. It will be tough and you may need to bend the rod and whack it with a hammer (i had to). Then once you force it through both of the loops and its all the way up. Put the pipe in there then put a washer after that and then put the nuts on there. Lock the nuts together when you get it tight.

Using the pipe as a spacer will give you the room so you can use a socket to tighten it much better.

i think i fixed it but i'll get it welded anyhow.

2.5" V-Band FLANGE Kit Stainless Steel Turbo Downpipe

This kit? I may have to pick up that kit and have a local exhaust shop add those in this winter.

Omg that fucking slip joint made my life hell for awhile. It came apart twice at autox. The first time It was my last run and only slipped a little bit, was ok to drive home. The second time happened during my second run of the day and I had to fix it during lunch because it slipped all the way off. I jacked up the car and had someone apply torque to the engine so I could get it around the subframe to slip it back on. I ran a piece of coat hanger through the holes and twisted it around itself pretty well. Has stayed on through many autox's and a track day (and daily driving) since then.

The damn threaded rod never ever stayed on more than 1.5 days before a nut fell off.

Wayne what did you end up doing?

I just welded mine up. The last time i worked on it there was no problem removing it all in 1 piece. I don't know how much clearance yours has between the fire wall behind it.

I don't use anything there...only thermal expansion.

And the Tac weld that the exhaust shop did.

yeah yeah yeah. like 3 years later for no apparent reason but to piss me off when i need to drop my tranny.

He welded it off the car and we reinstalled from underneath. I have the advantage of my turbo-> downpipe flange NOT being attached to the actual downpipe, therefor I'm able to worm that bastard back in there. I don't think that would be possible with a solid flange.

I ran mine with just the elbow coming from the turbo once the bolt snapped. I must say it was pretty cool hearing the turbo spool, but it sounded like a farm tractor or a small biplane coming in for a landing.:bowrofl:

Trying to put that bolt in was extremely annoying.

Solution that we came up with was to use a spring from a drum brake that we had lying around. Its been on the car for a while now, and no leaks.

Thats clever...

Well i tighten the hell out of it last night, as it warmed up on my way to work this mourning, ppprrrrrrr ppprrrrr pprrrrr > bbbrrrrraaaaaappppppp... rattle.... bbbrrraaaappp... rattle....

Got it welded as much as they could it still leaks a tiny bit on top but i have some magic potion that i will spread all over it once it cools down and hope it seals the damn thing. I'll also toss the clamp on there if it fits between the pipe and the cradle.

where is the air vent for the heater and the ac and so forth? when i'm at a stop light it smells like exhaust in the cab.. i honestly feel dizzy right now.

do you have your gasket between the firewall and hood?

but it shouldn't smell, fix your leaks.

yup that gasket is there, i looked around and could not smell exhaust in the engine bay. Its leaking at the crappy slip joint.

It shouldn't leak, like i said I never used any securing device there. Teh design on the joint should prevent leaks. since top portion fits into the bottom section with about a 4" overlap, it's going to be damn hard for the exhaust to leak out. Plus once it gets warm it should expand and get mad tight dawg.

your best be is a slip-joint band clamp and permatex muffler wrap as a sealant beneath it to really solve the issue.

4" wtf? mine barely has an inch, maybe an inch and a half. I ripped the bolt when i tried to tighten it more.


When i talked to Stephanie she did say they changed the design so now they are using a 4" bolt instead of the 6" bolt i'm using.

The problem i have with mine is my slip joint keeps slipping down. So far it hasnt come off but would make a big problem if it did. Either im going to weld it solid (then i have to take off the manifold every time i want to remove the exhaust) or vband. To me, a weld tack would eventually give way.

If your gonna tack it, just weld it. No leaks garanteed (unless you welded without gas [not flux core])

mine is not tacked, mine is welded however its not welded all around since they couldnt get to it from the top. You think i can take it off from the bottom of the car or do i have to pull the turbo to remove it?

You may be able too. Try it. You may be able to get the joint low enough to where you can get a full weld around it.

i'd do that but i gotta get it to the shop so they can weld it :(

Can't blame us for that one sorry. Not Corky's design idea. Better get back with someone else on that.....

BTW - that is the only downpipe I have seen break like that. Chances are you have something pulling on it.
Stephanie

My begi downpipe didnt hve enough clearance for me to thread the nut on the bolt more than about a few threads, its still hanging on there but it not tight, Im going to put a spring on it pretty soon

I am sorry I confused you. We use the 6" now. We used to use a 4" bolt, but it is not long enough.

It sounds like the previous owner chopped off part of the downpipe. That explains most of your problems. There is a minimum of 2" on a slip joint. Usually it much longer though.
Stephanie

I guess mine's closer to 2", but yeah, that's how mine was installed. i didnt bother with the bolt.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/exhaust/...nifold_002.jpg

try this:

http://i.ebayimg.com/21/!BO+1YJwBGk~...h8(C!~~_12.JPG

2 1/2 " STAINLESS STEEL BAND CLAMP for slip on Y pipes:eBay Motors (item 380112453669 end time Nov-17-09 05:38:38 PST)

with this wrapped around the seem:
http://permatex.com/images/DisplayIm...otos/80331.jpg
http://permatex.com/products/Automot...pe_Bandage.htm

^that's exactly what I use dawgs

Mine liked to blow off as soon as I got into boost. I ordered one of the sturdy band clamps from Jeg's and it's stayed put since April...and I drive like a total fucking douchebag.

the rattle from the damn bolt is freaking annoying

So can we remove the pipe in 1 piece from the car from the bottom with out removing the turbo??

I can on mine, not sure about the typical t25. But i gave you a really good solution...

serious guy listen to the man......

Only way your gonna know for sure is to get under the car and try.

yeah will do tomorrow. I'll try to rip it off and hope it comes out since i hell dont feel like pulling the turbo and loosening the studs that i worked so hard on trying to tighten...

You can take it out from under the car. No problem. If it is a BEGi-S downpipe (with little or no vent tube) then the likely hood of contact in the tranny tunnel is greatly reduced. However, you will still run the risk of the downpipe making contact somewhere.

A lot of people have told me the spring on the bolt works wonders. You just have to be careful it is not too big and makes contact in the tranny tunnel. My cross bolt flew off ages ago and never got replaced. As long as the pipe stays in position, it can go with out the cross bolt. Or you could also try wiring it too. Some have told me that works.
Stephanie

for some reason my pipe can fall off fairly easily. I can push it back and it would fall off if nothing is holding it. Thats the main reason why i was concerned and got it welded. Tomorrow i'll try to pull it and get it welded all around assuming weather is not too bad.

Think of the lower pipe disconnecting from the upper pipe and getting cough on a nice hole pushing the entire exhaust back through the bumper.. aahh the possibilities :)

hey what do you know, not just rain but enough rain to flood half the streets. Doesnt look like i'll be pulling it today :( man i hate chicago.

I'm surprised we don't see more exhaust done like dirt bikes do it - tabs on each pipe, and two or three springs to hold it together. It gives, it's easy to install, it won't let go.

I don't know if it's that EXACT one, but it's the basic idea. They are so cheap, why not? And putting it on is something could you do ugly with a ~$100 welder, or pay a shop $25 bucks to do. Should be a walk in the part. It works great, though it's a little hard through between the tranny and the tunnel, but not VERY hard at all. I'm a huge fan of it, never going back.

Oh! Sorry, I thought it was. Glad to hear it, cause really, it was just plain aweful. I can never tell what's yours and what's theirs.

I'm not sure what was tugging on it. Certainly it's been through a lot of iterations, so I doubt the same thing is even there anymore.

Well what do you know? the pipe came off. Took a little bit to figure out how to pull it off but it came off. Spin the pipe towards the passenger side of the car and it should come out.

Honestly i rather pay 20 bucks extra in shipping but get 1 piece pipe than to have to fuck around with the damn thing for a month after i install it trying to figure out how to fix it.

Lesson of the day, when cutting off the loops for the bolt, cut them off completely, dont try to break them off no matter how little material is holding them. Put a nice hole in the pipe since even though it was a tiny bit of material left on there it was still enough to rip a hole in the pipe after i tried to break it off.

Sucks to hear that. I think the metal gets weak from rust and heat cycling.

If you're sitting on extra money, this is something I never thought I would say... Get a $80 harbor frieght welder. It's a total piece of shit, barely works, etc... But it gets me out of SO many problems, I've fixed chairs, several freind's exhaust, all sorts of little things.. The better ones are supposedly a lot better, but it's amazing how useful ANY ability to weld at all is.

I live in a building and the closet downstairs has just enough room for the body that i'm keeping there. Adding a welder in there would be impossible :( Once i get a house with a garage i will get a welder in a heart beat. Anyhow i got it all welded now and ready to go on the car. Now the fun stuff.. how to get it back in there :facepalm:

all done now on to the store and see if it leaks. i did take few pics of my pipe before installation.

No leaks, no noticeable gasses inside the cab. High Five :rofl:

Surprisingly it went in very easily. Twist it towards the passenger side, put the pipe up it, then slowly push up and once it hits something twist it towards the back of the car in position.

here is how i had it so i can tighten it
Attachment 202842

Surprisingly they welded it quite a bit
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As far as the hole i made i cut a little piece that they welded.
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Welds look okay. Its hard to tell in the pic but is that porosity or slag on the mig welds. I personally would of TIG'd it but thats because im a perfectionist.

honestly man i could care less.. 20 bucks for the entire thing :) most shops here charge about 50 for that. I got my jeep welded.. roughly the same job.. 60some bucks :(

did they weld the top section?