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Old 09-26-2010, 11:47 PM   #1
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Default Track Dog over the radiator IC (Installed)

Well i started it today at 12ish. Took the bottom panel off, drained the coolant, great. Took out the radiator etc, still great, Started removing the Anti sway bar mount bolts (bolts that hold the anti sway bar mount to the body). Dumbest idea i had in a while.. i decided to use my electric battery powered impact. First bolt came off nice. 2nd bolt snapped. I tried to drill it out with no luck so i went and drilled it out and when i tried to tap it the hardened screw snapped the tap.

What are my options? i'm sure i wont be able to get the tap out.

---Other than that I got the IC hooked up, the panels were a bit pain to install but i got most of them on there. I had to cut the side panels a bit to get them to fit.
---Anyhow the PS cutting wasnt too bad. I dont know why The guys that made the kit didnt just decide to run the line directly from the pipes to the reservoir, Instead they decided to run it with a metal joining piece. I decided to go at it directly and simply put the piping directly to the reservoir. Much better than having 4" of line, then another new line. No point to it. A foot of rubber hose costs much less than the 2nd fitting and extra clamps they supply with the kit. My kit was missing a small bracket to move the power steering fluid container but i dont know since i did buy it off another guy..maybe he lost it.
-- The way they choose to mount the ac condenser sucks IMO. It is tied to radiator with push type zip ties instead of brackets. Anyways I'll worry about those tomorrow.

Tomorrow i'll try to come up with a solution for the broken screw. Any ideas?

Other than that i'm almost done.

Last edited by triple88a; 09-27-2010 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:21 PM   #2
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Same **** kind of happened to me when I did mine regarding the snapped bolt and an eventual snapped bolt removal tool(should have sprayed down with some penetrating oil). Just get a tough bit (carbide) and drill and push until you bust through that sucker. Than either use a self-tapping metal screw or tack weld (worked for me). The hardened metal takes some elbow grease and time to get through.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:46 PM   #3
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I have nothing constructive to offer.. only that it's amusing that at the time I'm reading this, you have 666 posts and it's about a tale of how you snap a bolt (a very important one) and then render it nearly impossible to remove. Good luck removing your now cursed bolt.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:47 PM   #4
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power steering and AC options suck with the kit, i got a real power steering cooler radiator, just a small cheap one. the ac strapping to the radiator works even at the track so w/e.
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Old 09-27-2010, 07:59 PM   #5
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It all seems to work for me, 3 years without any problems.

Sucks about the bolt. I had to drill out and then tap the 3 passenger side hardtop front latch screws since the PO I picked the hardtop up from buggered them trying to remove them. What a PITA that was.
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:00 PM   #6
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Well this is what i ended up doing. Drilled through it, also drilled through the bottom of the frame and slid one of these 5/16-18 inside and bolted it up (with the correct thread bolt) on the other side. Then painted the crap out of it with spray paint.
Image001.jpg

I did break off the one side since i didnt clip it on the frame, i just put it in there and once i got it started the ear prevented it from turning.

I'm sorry for the bad pic but a real camera was the last thing on my list to my buddys house. I'll have to take another pic that shows it clearer. The green thing on the side is basic sketch. You can see the ear lobe sticking out of the hole. Then when i was done i sprayed the crap out of it with paint so it doesnt rust.
Image005.jpg
Image004.jpg

The top cover did not fit perfectly. The spacing between both holes was probably 1/4-1/2 too big so i had to force it to go on there. The PS hoses i already mentioned up there. The IC mounting is was fine however the hoses that go to the SC and the TB were a bit off. They didnt fit well under the top part you have to cut out. They seemed to have too much of a right angle on them. If they were few degrees straighter fit would have been perfect. Other than that, the Track Dog IC is on and so is my BOV and my air temp sensor jig i made up.

few pics...
I ended up cutting the right pipe in this pic right by the upper bend and simply adding my piece on to it. I flipped the right and the left so the straight pipe is by the turbo, on the other hand my piece with the bov and the temp sensor is bolted right to the ic and the left over pipe i cut is bolted on top of that and leads to the TB.
JRIC.jpg


The air temp sensor bung is also welded on that piece too right next to the BOV.
complete.jpg

Image002.jpg

For the first time my fuel map is starting to look real. The autotune lowered my fuel for my 0-60kpa 1000rpm-2500rpm cells to 1.7ishms and slowly going up, Before it was at 1.9 then 1.95 then 1.85 then 1.9 again.. really screwed up since the autotune would tune a cell then tune another one little later but the air entering the engine would be different temp than before.
Today my air entering the engine was 20`C>68`F, ambinent was ~15.55`C>60`F. Before it would get in the 50C range easy before even entering the turbo and what the temp was at the TB was unknown as there was no sensor there.

Last edited by triple88a; 09-27-2010 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 09-29-2010, 12:13 AM   #7
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The bov/air temp sensor combo toy i had welded. (pipe is 1/16" wall)
Forgensensor1.jpg
Forgensensor2.jpg
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