Trackspeed kit 6758 slowish spool
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BP4W standard low compression forged build, MS3X, 6 spd/3.63, JDM Squaretop, EFR 6758 TSE manifold Precision 600 IC.
Just got the car running with new turbo installed, light driving with 150 kpa limit. In 5th gear from about 2000 rpm I hit 150 kpa at 3100 rpm - I’ve been in touch with StefanST and we both think it should be much lower than that based on spool data Savington had in the spool data thread (7 psi at 2700). I tugged on all of my IC piping and nothing is loose. I can post a log later today when I get home. When going into boost there is a different whooshing sound that could be the intake sucking in air, I have a cone filter 3” off the compressor inlet. Or could it be a boost leak.
I’m a first time trubo guy so I’m crowdsourcing info on the turbo and what else I can look for. I’m assuming I have my plumbing installed correctly (hopefully) or else it wouldn’t be working at all, it’s just not boosting quickly enough to seem right.
Just got the car running with new turbo installed, light driving with 150 kpa limit. In 5th gear from about 2000 rpm I hit 150 kpa at 3100 rpm - I’ve been in touch with StefanST and we both think it should be much lower than that based on spool data Savington had in the spool data thread (7 psi at 2700). I tugged on all of my IC piping and nothing is loose. I can post a log later today when I get home. When going into boost there is a different whooshing sound that could be the intake sucking in air, I have a cone filter 3” off the compressor inlet. Or could it be a boost leak.
I’m a first time trubo guy so I’m crowdsourcing info on the turbo and what else I can look for. I’m assuming I have my plumbing installed correctly (hopefully) or else it wouldn’t be working at all, it’s just not boosting quickly enough to seem right.
Agree on the boost leaks. The only real way to know for sure is to plug both ends and pressure check. I burned myself by not doing that and then went off checking other BS and wasting time. BOV was leaking.
Took it apart and lubricate the shaft. It had been sitting for a while and it was sticking. But my point is that pressurizing everything from the compressor outlet to the TB is the best way to check for a leak.
Surprised nobody asked about the exhaust. What are you running?
Besides everything already mentioned the tune can play a role. I would think not more than 200 RPM though. The 400 RPM spool difference could be a combo of many things. Chase the big ones and be happy if you get within 200RPM of Sav’s since you’re running non VVT.
Besides everything already mentioned the tune can play a role. I would think not more than 200 RPM though. The 400 RPM spool difference could be a combo of many things. Chase the big ones and be happy if you get within 200RPM of Sav’s since you’re running non VVT.
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Junior Member
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From: Philadelphia
I've been spending more time driving it and running autotune and it does feel much better. I have an artech 3" exhaust through a test pipe and 22" muffler. I think I was overthinking it a bit and once i realized Sav's was indeed a VVT motor, I'm okay with how it's doing. I don't have any obvious boost leaks, I think I'm clear on that section. Just getting the tune more...well, tuned. I finally have a turbo Miata after almost 2 years on this forum
go get a real tune.
fuel mapping is only half the battle. a real ignition tune on a load bearing dyno will make the car much faster if you have a generic map in it now.
fuel mapping is only half the battle. a real ignition tune on a load bearing dyno will make the car much faster if you have a generic map in it now.
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