what is the max bhp the greddy turbo will produce
 

As title, what is the max bhp the greddy turbo will produce?

cheers

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=hp+td04h

Look at post #4 by Brain


Although I thought I used to see in mt.net members sigs that they made around 250 RWHP with it on a 1.6l....Not sure about the BHP. Either way, you would need alot of mods to get the TD04h to 250 HP, FMIC or WI, full 3'' exhaust, good tune etc.

BHP means little... we only talk WHP aound here.

The turbo/manifold will support 250whp... as will about 1000other turbochargers out there that require the same "other" stuff to acheive it.

If you are going to start with a stock Greddy kit, be prepared to spend an additional $1500-$2k or more to get to 250whp reliably... the same amount of money you would need to spend on any other turbo/mani combo.

The most critical item (and most expensive sometimes) is the ECU you choose. Megasquirt is the most common and cheapest around here to get you there.

If your question is: If I buy a Greddy Kit from EBay, what else will I have to do to it to get 250whp, I'll butt-rape you over this keyboard.

not meaning to highjack here but at what point is it all worth it? meaning...

taking my car that already has the greddy kit and upgrading from there, say
new manifold, DP, 3in exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, ebayIC and piping, BOV, tuned on megasquirt.

sense i bought the car with the greddy already in it for 1200 bucks, would i be better off selling the greddy and going with a different kit or will the extra 1500-2500 spent on upgrades match the performance of a better kit or even surpass it?

just thinking out loud

Max boost is 28psi, max effeciency 24psi. Most people make 240-250whp at 15psi and a standalone. I'll be testing just how much whp it can make (not to exceed 300whp, not that it will make that, but if SOMEHOW it does, we'll stop it there) on a stock unopened block and only some adj cam gears. My tuner is pretty sure we can make close to 280whp with it, but we also are using a water/alcohol inj kit to keep temps down. First tune (hopefully tonight into tomorrow) will be without the WI kit, and on the stock 5.5psi WG pressure, so might see 170whp at most. This is just to get it back on the road, and we will add the WI kit and boost controller in a few weeks and then tune for max power.

....

A few months ago I would have said that the kit was the best bargain for a turbo kit for a 1.6l Miata. But now Greddy has a 5% maximum discount for retail. So instead of getting it for $1100, it's closer to $1600. That makes a big difference when comparing cost effectiveness to Begi turbos. With this price adjustment, the Begi kit is the better deal, no way around it. If you can get it used for cheap, then it works well.

Now that you mention it, I bought the turbo off ebay, what else will I need to get 250whp?

Only joking on a serious note....

It seems you guys in America talk about whp where as us in the UK seem to refer to it as bhp.

At the moment my car is running, rc engineering 550cc injectors, emerald ecu, with boost solenoid, FM exhaust, induction kit, FMIC and the greddy turbo kit. I've heat wrapped the manifold etc

The company who mapped the car (on the road, not a rolling road) said the MAP sensor is telling them 1.2 bar, but the boost gauge I've got on the car is struggling to get 10psi. I think the guage is broken and 1.2bar is probably correct. If I am correct isn't this about 17psi?

I still have the standard clutch, but have a 1.8 spec 2 clutch and flywheel with torsen diff set up to go on. At the moment as soon as I go over 5k the clutch slips. Sometimes it will bite, but most times it slips.

I've no idea what power I'm putting out at the moment and wont be able to check until I get the car on a rolling road. I would like to buy a standard motor and fit forged pistons etc to eventually swap the engines over with a view to get over 300bhp (not hp) I wasn't sure if I'd need to swap the turbo for another unit?

My other car is a 400bhp impreza and although the 5 is a different type of car it does lack the power my impreza has.

because we typically dont remove our engines and dyno them outside the car.

I've already spent about £5000 on the turbo set up so far (that's approx $10000 to you guys)

Greddy turbo with mods £1000
Emerald ECU £1000
FMIC £500
550CC injectors £400
Exhaust £300
Torsen diff + shafts and prop £500
Spec 2 clutch and 1.8 flywheel £400
Mapping £350
Labour £500

(prob other stuff I've missed)

I only paid £1000 for the car last year!

neither do we but that's what we usually refer to.

I guess it is to make the power seem more than what it is as it would obviously be lower at the wheel than the crank

You've paid more than twice what everyone on this side of the pond pays.

Just to give you an idea;

I paid US$900 for my AEM (ECU). BTW, the MS goes for $775.
RC550cc injectors: $350
Spec 2 clutch (I had my flywheel resurfaced) $250.

Start looking for ways to buy stuff on this side of the pond and sent to you. I'm sure you'll get better deals.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=292679
There's a discussion about the BHP/WHP thing going on over there right now.

We all know WHP calculations are solely dependent on how good(honest) your operator is. It makes zero sense to me to then try to reverse calculate the power at the engine. What do you use as a co-efficient for driveline loss? Every car is going to be different... shit, it's been proven that dif/tranny oil is worth a 1-2%. What about a guy running 20lb vs. 10lb wheels?

Power at the wheels is all that matters for determining how fast you should go. There are simply too many variables between the flywheel and the rubber to universally use 10%/12%/15% for driveline loss. We take this as gospel here in the US... I would like to hear an argument for the other side.

my belief is the turbo is good for 275-300whp. 20psi is about what i'd consider the ragged egde of safety of the turbo. and as far as i know, to date nobody has found the limit. you can always run more boost but there will be certain levels of diminishing returns

i remeber years ago in the dsm world nobody thought the 14b was worth a shit, then someone with a ridiculous amount of supporting mods made like 300whp with it and ran 11s. turbo was way past it's efficient range but held together and still make more power.

It's easy enough to make 250 whp with a Greddy. Just add money!

The problem is we have to pay vat (value added tax) and import tax.

Taking the greddy kit for example. I think USA price is about $1200, that is roughly £600, plus shipping. It is quite heavy so prob looking at £100 shipping so £700. If you add 5% import tax and 17.5% vat it comes to nealy the same.

it can do about 270whp w/ good cam and good tuning

Froogle, us Brits usually talk in BHP as it's the higher figure & sounds better when you're telling your friends after a few beers in the pub.
When I dyno my car I get a rwhp readout (power at the road wheels), and then the computer calculates the BHP (at the flywheel), usually transmission losses on our cars are approx 30Hp.

I believe the Greddy (TD04) turbo can make 250Hp+, but it will be getting out of its effiecient range by then. I'm aiming to get 200-250bhp out of my Greddy kit, and plan on a built engine after that.

After all, once you've everything in place to make that kind of power, then it's not so much of a big deal to swap out the turbo, manifold & downpipe is it?

I have just bought a 1.6 engine for £200, picking it up tomorrow. Going to strip it and build it with forged internals.

No doubt I'll be posting on here shortly for help!

cheers

I'm sorry, $800 for injectors!!!!!!!!

All the hardcore drag racers will tell you that the "best" dyno is the mph figure on your timeslip. If you keep the race weight consistent on each run and correct for density altitude (back to standard conditions and make similar adjustments for any measured headwind/tailwind component you can monitor mph/horsepower output on a run-by-run basis. For about $20 on test & tune night you can get a good 8-10 pulls on the "dragstrip dyno". Most tracks have a scale you can roll onto after making a run so you can record your actual race weight and use readily available "power" calculators to come up with your RWP. All other things equal, a setup that makes more horsepower "under the curve" will generally out MPH and ET a setup that makes more peak hp with less area under the curve.