what is the max bhp the greddy turbo will produce - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Prefabbed Turbo Kits A place to discuss prefabricated turbo kits on the market
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 07-26-2008, 04:45 PM   #1
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 0
Default what is the max bhp the greddy turbo will produce

As title, what is the max bhp the greddy turbo will produce?

cheers
Froogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 04:57 PM   #2
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southlake,Texas
Posts: 3,251
Total Cats: 17
Default

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=hp+td04h

Look at post #4 by Brain


Although I thought I used to see in mt.net members sigs that they made around 250 RWHP with it on a 1.6l....Not sure about the BHP. Either way, you would need alot of mods to get the TD04h to 250 HP, FMIC or WI, full 3'' exhaust, good tune etc.

Last edited by Bond; 07-26-2008 at 04:58 PM. Reason: clarify
Bond is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 05:03 PM   #3
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
samnavy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
Posts: 6,020
Total Cats: 175
Default

BHP means little... we only talk WHP aound here.

The turbo/manifold will support 250whp... as will about 1000other turbochargers out there that require the same "other" stuff to acheive it.

If you are going to start with a stock Greddy kit, be prepared to spend an additional $1500-$2k or more to get to 250whp reliably... the same amount of money you would need to spend on any other turbo/mani combo.

The most critical item (and most expensive sometimes) is the ECU you choose. Megasquirt is the most common and cheapest around here to get you there.

If your question is: If I buy a Greddy Kit from EBay, what else will I have to do to it to get 250whp, I'll butt-rape you over this keyboard.
samnavy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 05:16 PM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

not meaning to highjack here but at what point is it all worth it? meaning...

taking my car that already has the greddy kit and upgrading from there, say
new manifold, DP, 3in exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, ebayIC and piping, BOV, tuned on megasquirt.

sense i bought the car with the greddy already in it for 1200 bucks, would i be better off selling the greddy and going with a different kit or will the extra 1500-2500 spent on upgrades match the performance of a better kit or even surpass it?

just thinking out loud
climb_on is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 05:33 PM   #5
Guest
iTrader: (1)
 
ray_sir_6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 714
Total Cats: 0
Default

Max boost is 28psi, max effeciency 24psi. Most people make 240-250whp at 15psi and a standalone. I'll be testing just how much whp it can make (not to exceed 300whp, not that it will make that, but if SOMEHOW it does, we'll stop it there) on a stock unopened block and only some adj cam gears. My tuner is pretty sure we can make close to 280whp with it, but we also are using a water/alcohol inj kit to keep temps down. First tune (hopefully tonight into tomorrow) will be without the WI kit, and on the stock 5.5psi WG pressure, so might see 170whp at most. This is just to get it back on the road, and we will add the WI kit and boost controller in a few weeks and then tune for max power.

....

A few months ago I would have said that the kit was the best bargain for a turbo kit for a 1.6l Miata. But now Greddy has a 5% maximum discount for retail. So instead of getting it for $1100, it's closer to $1600. That makes a big difference when comparing cost effectiveness to Begi turbos. With this price adjustment, the Begi kit is the better deal, no way around it. If you can get it used for cheap, then it works well.
ray_sir_6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 05:51 PM   #6
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
If I buy a Greddy Kit from EBay, what else will I have to do to it to get 250whp, I'll butt-rape you over this keyboard.
Now that you mention it, I bought the turbo off ebay, what else will I need to get 250whp?

Only joking on a serious note....

It seems you guys in America talk about whp where as us in the UK seem to refer to it as bhp.

At the moment my car is running, rc engineering 550cc injectors, emerald ecu, with boost solenoid, FM exhaust, induction kit, FMIC and the greddy turbo kit. I've heat wrapped the manifold etc

The company who mapped the car (on the road, not a rolling road) said the MAP sensor is telling them 1.2 bar, but the boost gauge I've got on the car is struggling to get 10psi. I think the guage is broken and 1.2bar is probably correct. If I am correct isn't this about 17psi?

I still have the standard clutch, but have a 1.8 spec 2 clutch and flywheel with torsen diff set up to go on. At the moment as soon as I go over 5k the clutch slips. Sometimes it will bite, but most times it slips.

I've no idea what power I'm putting out at the moment and wont be able to check until I get the car on a rolling road. I would like to buy a standard motor and fit forged pistons etc to eventually swap the engines over with a view to get over 300bhp (not hp) I wasn't sure if I'd need to swap the turbo for another unit?

My other car is a 400bhp impreza and although the 5 is a different type of car it does lack the power my impreza has.
Froogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 05:58 PM   #7
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,899
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Froogle View Post
It seems you guys in America talk about whp where as us in the UK seem to refer to it as bhp.

because we typically dont remove our engines and dyno them outside the car.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 05:58 PM   #8
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
be prepared to spend an additional $1500-$2k or more to get to 250whp reliably
I've already spent about 5000 on the turbo set up so far (that's approx $10000 to you guys)

Greddy turbo with mods 1000
Emerald ECU 1000
FMIC 500
550CC injectors 400
Exhaust 300
Torsen diff + shafts and prop 500
Spec 2 clutch and 1.8 flywheel 400
Mapping 350
Labour 500

(prob other stuff I've missed)

I only paid 1000 for the car last year!
Froogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 06:00 PM   #9
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
because we typically dont remove our engines and dyno them outside the car.
neither do we but that's what we usually refer to.

I guess it is to make the power seem more than what it is as it would obviously be lower at the wheel than the crank
Froogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 08:12 PM   #10
Elite Member
iTrader: (22)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
Posts: 3,257
Total Cats: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Froogle View Post
I've already spent about 5000 on the turbo set up so far (that's approx $10000 to you guys)

Greddy turbo with mods 1000
Emerald ECU 1000
FMIC 500
550CC injectors 400
Exhaust 300
Torsen diff + shafts and prop 500
Spec 2 clutch and 1.8 flywheel 400
Mapping 350
Labour 500

(prob other stuff I've missed)

I only paid 1000 for the car last year!
You've paid more than twice what everyone on this side of the pond pays.

Just to give you an idea;

I paid US$900 for my AEM (ECU). BTW, the MS goes for $775.
RC550cc injectors: $350
Spec 2 clutch (I had my flywheel resurfaced) $250.

Start looking for ways to buy stuff on this side of the pond and sent to you. I'm sure you'll get better deals.
Rafa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 08:44 PM   #11
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
samnavy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: VIRGINIA BEACH, VA
Posts: 6,020
Total Cats: 175
Default

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=292679
There's a discussion about the BHP/WHP thing going on over there right now.

We all know WHP calculations are solely dependent on how good(honest) your operator is. It makes zero sense to me to then try to reverse calculate the power at the engine. What do you use as a co-efficient for driveline loss? Every car is going to be different... ****, it's been proven that dif/tranny oil is worth a 1-2%. What about a guy running 20lb vs. 10lb wheels?

Power at the wheels is all that matters for determining how fast you should go. There are simply too many variables between the flywheel and the rubber to universally use 10%/12%/15% for driveline loss. We take this as gospel here in the US... I would like to hear an argument for the other side.
samnavy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2008, 09:07 PM   #12
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Mach929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: lansdale PA
Posts: 2,500
Total Cats: 0
Default

my belief is the turbo is good for 275-300whp. 20psi is about what i'd consider the ragged egde of safety of the turbo. and as far as i know, to date nobody has found the limit. you can always run more boost but there will be certain levels of diminishing returns

i remeber years ago in the dsm world nobody thought the 14b was worth a ****, then someone with a ridiculous amount of supporting mods made like 300whp with it and ran 11s. turbo was way past it's efficient range but held together and still make more power.
Mach929 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2008, 04:30 PM   #13
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
kotomile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 7,578
Total Cats: 40
Default

It's easy enough to make 250 whp with a Greddy. Just add money!
kotomile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2008, 04:42 PM   #14
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 0
Default

The problem is we have to pay vat (value added tax) and import tax.

Taking the greddy kit for example. I think USA price is about $1200, that is roughly 600, plus shipping. It is quite heavy so prob looking at 100 shipping so 700. If you add 5% import tax and 17.5% vat it comes to nealy the same.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa View Post
You've paid more than twice what everyone on this side of the pond pays.

Just to give you an idea;

I paid US$900 for my AEM (ECU). BTW, the MS goes for $775.
RC550cc injectors: $350
Spec 2 clutch (I had my flywheel resurfaced) $250.

Start looking for ways to buy stuff on this side of the pond and sent to you. I'm sure you'll get better deals.
Froogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2008, 09:43 PM   #15
Elite Member
iTrader: (24)
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sherman Oaks, CA
Posts: 4,481
Total Cats: 3
Default

it can do about 270whp w/ good cam and good tuning
UrbanSoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 03:42 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: England
Posts: 124
Total Cats: 0
Default

Froogle, us Brits usually talk in BHP as it's the higher figure & sounds better when you're telling your friends after a few beers in the pub.
When I dyno my car I get a rwhp readout (power at the road wheels), and then the computer calculates the BHP (at the flywheel), usually transmission losses on our cars are approx 30Hp.

I believe the Greddy (TD04) turbo can make 250Hp+, but it will be getting out of its effiecient range by then. I'm aiming to get 200-250bhp out of my Greddy kit, and plan on a built engine after that.

After all, once you've everything in place to make that kind of power, then it's not so much of a big deal to swap out the turbo, manifold & downpipe is it?
jim-NA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 05:52 PM   #17
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 0
Default

I have just bought a 1.6 engine for 200, picking it up tomorrow. Going to strip it and build it with forged internals.

No doubt I'll be posting on here shortly for help!

cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim-NA View Post
Froogle, us Brits usually talk in BHP as it's the higher figure & sounds better when you're telling your friends after a few beers in the pub.
When I dyno my car I get a rwhp readout (power at the road wheels), and then the computer calculates the BHP (at the flywheel), usually transmission losses on our cars are approx 30Hp.

I believe the Greddy (TD04) turbo can make 250Hp+, but it will be getting out of its effiecient range by then. I'm aiming to get 200-250bhp out of my Greddy kit, and plan on a built engine after that.

After all, once you've everything in place to make that kind of power, then it's not so much of a big deal to swap out the turbo, manifold & downpipe is it?
Froogle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2008, 05:58 PM   #18
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,997
Total Cats: 1
Default

I'm sorry, $800 for injectors!!!!!!!!
johndoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2008, 12:44 AM   #19
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lisle, IL
Posts: 296
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=292679
There's a discussion about the BHP/WHP thing going on over there right now.

We all know WHP calculations are solely dependent on how good(honest) your operator is. It makes zero sense to me to then try to reverse calculate the power at the engine. What do you use as a co-efficient for driveline loss? Every car is going to be different... ****, it's been proven that dif/tranny oil is worth a 1-2%. What about a guy running 20lb vs. 10lb wheels?

Power at the wheels is all that matters for determining how fast you should go. There are simply too many variables between the flywheel and the rubber to universally use 10%/12%/15% for driveline loss. We take this as gospel here in the US... I would like to hear an argument for the other side.

All the hardcore drag racers will tell you that the "best" dyno is the mph figure on your timeslip. If you keep the race weight consistent on each run and correct for density altitude (back to standard conditions and make similar adjustments for any measured headwind/tailwind component you can monitor mph/horsepower output on a run-by-run basis. For about $20 on test & tune night you can get a good 8-10 pulls on the "dragstrip dyno". Most tracks have a scale you can roll onto after making a run so you can record your actual race weight and use readily available "power" calculators to come up with your RWP. All other things equal, a setup that makes more horsepower "under the curve" will generally out MPH and ET a setup that makes more peak hp with less area under the curve.
sn95 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Project Gemini - Turbo Civic on the Cheap Full_Tilt_Boogie Build Threads 59 Yesterday 09:00 PM
WTB MP62 (Hotside) (NB2) Rick02R WTB 3 01-03-2016 08:18 PM
Expected intake temps on the track? tazswing Race Prep 20 10-03-2015 12:04 PM
ISO 1.6 turbo cast iron manifold cale saurage DIY Turbo Discussion 16 10-01-2015 12:25 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:56 PM.