Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 1086956)
How bright is it when u grenade your motor because you've been running at 13 afr?
We just finished building my buddies turbo miata. He runs on links, old unit but I like it. Car makes a crap load of power. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1086958)
he is a 15post spambot moron that came here to sell his doodoo box equipped car
don't waste your posts on him |
ARE YOU RETARDED? Or just dense enough to think we're all as stupid as you and/or born yesterday
You join, make 10 really pointless and stupid posts, then throw up your car for sale a week later. You are not a contributing member to this forum, and an idiot if you really think we can't see past your BS. And if you PM me again I'll blow up your inbox with things you've never seen before. DIAF Good day sir. |
Originally Posted by Mmn710
(Post 1086960)
Actually did a run in 1:1 gear and afr were at 12.0. They were reading closer to 13 when going though 2nd and a little of 3rd which aren't load gears. Once it gets higher in the rpm range it comes down.
We just finished building my buddies turbo miata. He runs on links, old unit but I like it. Car makes a crap load of power. Dafaq is a "load gear"? |
Must make power if it has more than 1 link.
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Originally Posted by Mmn710
(Post 1086960)
Actually did a run in 1:1 gear and afr were at 12.0. They were reading closer to 13 when going though 2nd and a little of 3rd which aren't load gears. Once it gets higher in the rpm range it comes down.
We just finished building my buddies turbo miata. He runs on links, old unit but I like it. Car makes a crap load of power. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1388413793 |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1086964)
ARE YOU RETARDED? Or just dense enough to think we're all as stupid as you and/or born yesterday
You join, make 10 really pointless and stupid posts, then throw up your car for sale a week later. You are not a contributing member to this forum, and an idiot if you really think we can't see past your BS. And if you PM me again I'll blow up your inbox with things you've never seen before. DIAF Good day sir. |
I feel really bad for your car.
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Car runs perfect. I'm done talking to u two idiots. Not here to start pointless arguments on a forum. Yes I have my miata up for sale and yes I joined cause I have two other miatas. One is a spec miata and other is a 96 that I plan to do autox with. So grow up and calm down already.
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Originally Posted by Mmn710
(Post 1086960)
Actually did a run in 1:1 gear and afr were at 12.0. They were reading closer to 13 when going though 2nd and a little of 3rd which aren't load gears. Once it gets higher in the rpm range it comes down.
We just finished building my buddies turbo miata. He runs on links, old unit but I like it. Car makes a crap load of power.
Originally Posted by Mmn710
(Post 1087205)
Car runs perfect. I'm done talking to u two idiots. Not here to start pointless arguments on a forum. Yes I have my miata up for sale and yes I joined cause I have two other miatas. One is a spec miata and other is a 96 that I plan to do autox with. So grow up and calm down already.
Which is it? Can't have both. |
You can have both...both links in 1 car. Just ask him.
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Two Links One Asshole.
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D: What happened to my thread?
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Shhhhhhhhh....
No tears, only dreams. |
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I have owned a dozen Miatas, built my turbocharged and supercharged Miatas, fiddled with Megasquirt PNP, as well as ran AEM V2 on my 2001 S2000 with a Paxton 1200 (13 psi). And well the Corvette I can say had the cheapest and most affordable engine management to dynotune.
Of course, someone will make a joke about that, but I am saying all that for the pretext of what I am about to say. If you are wanting an easy to install, hassle-free fuel management unit that will work well with the ECU, maintain your OBD-2 readouts, keep your air conditioning, and all the hard work that is put into making a car crank immediately in adverse temperatures and conditions without flooding the engine or repeated cranking attempts, then, contrary to what most people will say, the voodoo box is an economical choice and a reliable good working choice at that. Just as long as you're power goals are practical and moderate, 6-8 psi, 160-180 rwhp based on year model and displacement. You'll have to retard timing by 2 or 4 degrees based on your available octane rating, so be expected to see a little dent in your midrange torque, but it isn't going to carbon lock your engine or clog your catalytic converter overnight, like some may suggest with impending doom in their post on here. I would like to make one note, for kicks I used to have a 2004 MSM with little enchilada and a 1999 10AE with almost the same setup, same turbo, but voodoo box instead. There was no comparison, the 1999, even with its voodoo box seemed to make more power and it's drivability hands-down decimated the MSM's craptastic tune of an ECU... Now, honestly, are they worth 415 dollars plus shipping, I have to say no, but you can pick them up for 150 dollars used. If you got a reputable and professional tuner with a dynometer that can tune your car with Megasquirt PNP, then go that route. Get it set up, load the basemaps, and then let them deal with the harder stuff. Unfortunately, for folks like me, we live in NASCAR land and our tuners would rather have someone shit in their face rather than tune a car that has four cylinders instead of eight. |
The closest tuner I know would be top speed tuning in Alpharetta Georgia, but I doubt he does Megasquirt. So I am screwed... I probably have to drive 500 miles to get my car to a Megasquirt dyno tuner lol.
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Cody, just use Tuner Studio VE Analyze Live.
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Originally Posted by Cody Strife
(Post 1087601)
If you are wanting an easy to install, hassle-free fuel management unit that will work well with the ECU, maintain your OBD-2 readouts, keep your air conditioning, and all the hard work that is put into making a car crank immediately in adverse temperatures and conditions without flooding the engine or repeated cranking attempts, then, contrary to what most people will say, the voodoo box is an economical choice and a reliable good working choice at that.
Just as long as you're power goals are practical and moderate, 6-8 psi, 160-180 rwhp based on year model and displacement.
Originally Posted by Cody Strife
(Post 1087601)
Now, honestly, are they worth 415 dollars plus shipping, I have to say no, but you can pick them up for 150 dollars used. If you got a reputable and professional tuner with a dynometer that can tune your car with Megasquirt PNP, then go that route. Get it set up, load the basemaps, and then let them deal with the harder stuff.
Also, come on man, who told you that you had to give up AC with a MS? What's with the talk of flooding and whatnot? I never had the problems you described that couldn't be resolved with something in the tune or configuration. |
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