will knock occur at idle? tuning help
 

Hi all, I finally got a chance to fire up my begi S tonight without the Bipes installed, didn't think I would need it at idle, anyway I'm getting some kind of knock/clicking at idle. Here are some particulars: As I said the Bipes is not installed, timing is set to stock 10 degrees, per the begi instructions the fuel pressure gauge should read between 35 and 38 psi and mine says about 34psi, also per the instructions when I clamp the return fuel line the pressure gauge should read 75psi mine reads over 80psi. New plugs installed gaped to .035, I do only have about a third of a tank of gas just putting 2 gallons of 93 octane in yesterday but have been running premium for about a month.

Because of all the horror stories regarding knock I'm too paranoid to run it for a long time let alone drive it. Not sure if it’s the valve adjusters clicking or if it’s a legit ping and the funny thing is the clicking/ping/knock seems to be coming from under the car but that could be me. Some questions I have; do I need to retard the timing at idle? Will the Bipes help at idle? Will a full tank of gas help? Should I just not worry about it, install the Bipes and take it for a careful drive?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

not sure if this matters but it does have an aftermarket cat and 3" exhaust back.

thanks again.

Knock tends to occur when the engine is heavily loaded. I cannot possibly fathom how it could occur at idle on an engine that is otherwise capable of normal operation.

clicking could be just the lifters, knocking is new engine time

Thanks Joe for the response that's what I thought also. Guess I'll install the Bipes and not worry to much about it until I’m test driving it.

Hey Larry; did you by any chance do something with the timing belt? I ask because after initially installing my turbo kit I was facing issues with some knocking at low rpms and it had to do with retarded timing. Just a FYI.

BTW, the knock went away as soon as I set my base timing right.

Thanks Rafa for the reply. not recently I had the timing belt and water pump done over 6 months ago but was driving it no problem afterwards and have been up until two weeks ago when I installed the turbo.

No worries in that regard then. Enjoy your turbo!

you need to build some engine-headphones / det can. I helped a guy tune with them and was amazed at what you could hear through them. We added sooooo much time to that car from the base map and it was noticeably faster from the butt dyno. The headphones are a good way to make sure everything is safe for road tuning, prior to a trip to the dyno.

Ok hustler you've got my attention. How and what do I need to do build these? Sounds like a great tool even If I don't need them right now.

+1 hustler; need more info please.

Ok guys an update. I installed the bipes and boost gauge today (autometer 4301). Stock timing at 10. Bipes settings: Airflow retard 4, RPM set to start retard at 2500 RPM, air temp retard 1 degree for each 55 degrees F. When I fired her up vacuum on the boost gauge read 20 which from my what I've read on the site is about right but when test driving I couldn't get her to go into boost and thought with a 3" exhaust back it wouldn't take much to start spooling up. This may be a real stupid question but how high do I need to rev her up in each gear to get her to go into boost? Also, I've read on the site that I may have a leak which may be causing my problem. Any thoughts suggestions?

question
 

I'm a noob, so take this with a grain of salt. I installed my begi-s about a month ago. My gauge reads negative pressure unless I really stomp on it. If you start in 3rd gear and go to full throttle, does your boost gauge move towards zero?

Jim

Thanks Jim don't worry about it I'm a noob too trying to learn. I have to admit I wasn't really stomping it due to the ping worry but while reving it before shift I did notice it move toward zero but never beyond. So you think I may not be reving it high enough?

Let me be more specific, I’m a noob trying to learn while at the same time not blowing up an engine. :)

Check the downpipe cross bolt. That tends to rattle loose, and needs to be re-tightened.
Stephanie

Check to make sure the "c" shaped clip is still holding the actuator bracket on to the turbine housing.
Stephanie

I know this sounds stupid, but, make sure it is not the keys on your key chain rattling.
Stephanie

Thanks Stephanie for your help I think my initial post for pinging at idle was more paranoia on my part since I installed the bipes this afternoon it seemed the rough idle was not as rough after all, if that’s possible. Anyway, on my first test drive I was disappointed when I wasn't able to produce any boost and from what I've read on other setups similar to mine, begi s with 3" back, I thought I should be able to make boost at a rather low RPM. What RPM would you expect I should make boost? Sorry for my noobishness I think I know what you’re talking about and I will check first thing in the morning and post my findings. Thanks again.

Thanks Stephanie, I'll check it out.

Wouldn't that be a hoot. If it did come down to my keys rattling I don't think I could bring myself to admit it to ya'll.

With the GT2554 turbo that comes in the "S" kit, you should be seeing the onset of boost no later than 2,500 RPM or so in the higher gears. In other words, put it in 3rd or 4th, get it to 2,000 RPM, and floor it. If you're not at maximum boost by 4,000 RPM, something is wrong.

Where exactly is the hose to your boost gauge connected to the system? Be as specific as possible.

As Steph said, verify that the wastegate actuator rod is firmly attached. Though even if it weren't, I'd expect a couple pounds as you approach redline.

There really aren't that many things that could be wrong here.

Thanks Guys for all your help its much appreciated. Joe my boost gauge is tapped into the vacum line that goes from the throttle body to the begi FPR.

3rd or 4th gear 2k rpm and floor it and I should be at 5 to 6psi by 4k. Got it!!

And I'll double check the actuator rod in the morning. Thanks again guys.

And again, and again, until you put a hose clamp over it :)

Hey Larry; it sounds to me like you must definitely have a leak. With a 3" exhaust you should be seeing boost way before you get to 4,000 rpms.

Success!!!! I check the actuator rod and c-clip and both were in place, tightened all the hose clamps just to make sure I didn’t have a slight leak and took her out. Joe, I did exactly as you said and you were exactly right one of my four passes I did hit 5psi at around 4k rpm the other passes I was close. It’s kind of hard to look at the RPM, boost gauge and the bipes all at once. My final pass it looked like my oil pressure may have dropped a couple of psi but that’s probably normal since I was getting on it pretty hard and while driving home I didn’t see an oil trail so I don’t think any damage is done. Rafa just posted a reply regarding a possible leak and I’m thinking I agree with him so I’ll get better clamps to help with that. Finally, my timing is set to 10 but I may bump it up to 12 it seems like the sweet spot for my car. To all who posted on this thread, thanks alot you guys/girls are awesome.

Hey Rafa, I'm inclined to agree with you and want to get the better clamps can you give me an Idea of what I ask for at the parts store? Are they called T-clamps? Should I get them for the turbo all the way to the intake manfold or just for the clamps around the turbo? Thanks again for you imput.

Thanks for the tip ya I think with all I've read regarding leaks I'll be buying a bunch of better clamps tommarrow but money well spent.

Someone else has before. That is the only reason I think to mention it. :)
Stephanie

I'm entering this thread a little late, but....

if the car has been stood for a while then the "pinging" is likely to be the HLA's, my car was the same but thankfully it quietened down after a few days use.

Is there not a "running-in" period with the Begi kit? ie. doing a few hundred miles with No boost as I had to do with my GReddy kit?

Nope.
Stephanie

ahh... yet another reason why I should have gone Begi instead of GReddy...;)

Jim, I think you hit the nail on the head my car had been sitting for a while during the intstall so I think the inital startup the noise was more HLA's. Seems fine now, I'm having a hard time finding premium in NC but once I do I'll go play some more.

i just installed the begi-s on my completely stock 90 with 96 swap and have the car retarded 4 degrees and it runs great no ping/knock. but it does really rattle loud at certain rpms though pretty sure its the downpipe flex joint though

Im pretty sure your not giving it enough gas to make the boost your looking for but my turbo will have spooled up shortly after 2k rpm. Im running the 2554. Put the peddle to the floor and have a blast! lol