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Old 10-03-2008, 09:11 PM   #1
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Default will knock occur at idle? tuning help

Hi all, I finally got a chance to fire up my begi S tonight without the Bipes installed, didn't think I would need it at idle, anyway I'm getting some kind of knock/clicking at idle. Here are some particulars: As I said the Bipes is not installed, timing is set to stock 10 degrees, per the begi instructions the fuel pressure gauge should read between 35 and 38 psi and mine says about 34psi, also per the instructions when I clamp the return fuel line the pressure gauge should read 75psi mine reads over 80psi. New plugs installed gaped to .035, I do only have about a third of a tank of gas just putting 2 gallons of 93 octane in yesterday but have been running premium for about a month.

Because of all the horror stories regarding knock I'm too paranoid to run it for a long time let alone drive it. Not sure if itís the valve adjusters clicking or if itís a legit ping and the funny thing is the clicking/ping/knock seems to be coming from under the car but that could be me. Some questions I have; do I need to retard the timing at idle? Will the Bipes help at idle? Will a full tank of gas help? Should I just not worry about it, install the Bipes and take it for a careful drive?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

not sure if this matters but it does have an aftermarket cat and 3" exhaust back.

thanks again.
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:24 PM   #2
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Knock tends to occur when the engine is heavily loaded. I cannot possibly fathom how it could occur at idle on an engine that is otherwise capable of normal operation.
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:27 PM   #3
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clicking could be just the lifters, knocking is new engine time
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:32 PM   #4
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Knock tends to occur when the engine is heavily loaded. I cannot possibly fathom how it could occur at idle on an engine that is otherwise capable of normal operation.
Thanks Joe for the response that's what I thought also. Guess I'll install the Bipes and not worry to much about it until Iím test driving it.
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Old 10-03-2008, 10:37 PM   #5
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Hey Larry; did you by any chance do something with the timing belt? I ask because after initially installing my turbo kit I was facing issues with some knocking at low rpms and it had to do with retarded timing. Just a FYI.

BTW, the knock went away as soon as I set my base timing right.
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Old 10-03-2008, 10:47 PM   #6
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Hey Larry; did you by any chance do something with the timing belt? I ask because after initially installing my turbo kit I was facing issues with some knocking at low rpms and it had to do with retarded timing. Just a FYI.

BTW, the knock went away as soon as I set my base timing right.

Thanks Rafa for the reply. not recently I had the timing belt and water pump done over 6 months ago but was driving it no problem afterwards and have been up until two weeks ago when I installed the turbo.
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:19 AM   #7
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Thanks Rafa for the reply. not recently I had the timing belt and water pump done over 6 months ago but was driving it no problem afterwards and have been up until two weeks ago when I installed the turbo.

No worries in that regard then. Enjoy your turbo!
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:34 PM   #8
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you need to build some engine-headphones / det can. I helped a guy tune with them and was amazed at what you could hear through them. We added sooooo much time to that car from the base map and it was noticeably faster from the butt dyno. The headphones are a good way to make sure everything is safe for road tuning, prior to a trip to the dyno.
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:35 PM   #9
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you need to build some engine-headphones / det can. I helped a guy tune with them and was amazed at what you could hear through them. We added sooooo much time to that car from the base map and it was noticeably faster from the butt dyno. The headphones are a good way to make sure everything is safe for road tuning, prior to a trip to the dyno.

Ok hustler you've got my attention. How and what do I need to do build these? Sounds like a great tool even If I don't need them right now.
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Old 10-04-2008, 08:55 PM   #10
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Ok hustler you've got my attention. How and what do I need to do build these? Sounds like a great tool even If I don't need them right now.
+1 hustler; need more info please.
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:01 PM   #11
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Ok guys an update. I installed the bipes and boost gauge today (autometer 4301). Stock timing at 10. Bipes settings: Airflow retard 4, RPM set to start retard at 2500 RPM, air temp retard 1 degree for each 55 degrees F. When I fired her up vacuum on the boost gauge read 20 which from my what I've read on the site is about right but when test driving I couldn't get her to go into boost and thought with a 3" exhaust back it wouldn't take much to start spooling up. This may be a real stupid question but how high do I need to rev her up in each gear to get her to go into boost? Also, I've read on the site that I may have a leak which may be causing my problem. Any thoughts suggestions?
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:28 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by larryd96 View Post
Ok guys an update. I installed the bipes and boost gauge today (autometer 4301). Stock timing at 10. Bipes settings: Airflow retard 4, RPM set to start retard at 2500 RPM, air temp retard 1 degree for each 55 degrees F. When I fired her up vacuum on the boost gauge read 20 which from my what I've read on the site is about right but when test driving I couldn't get her to go into boost and thought with a 3" exhaust back it wouldn't take much to start spooling up. This may be a real stupid question but how high do I need to rev her up in each gear to get her to go into boost? Also, I've read on the site that I may have a leak which may be causing my problem. Any thoughts suggestions?
I'm a noob, so take this with a grain of salt. I installed my begi-s about a month ago. My gauge reads negative pressure unless I really stomp on it. If you start in 3rd gear and go to full throttle, does your boost gauge move towards zero?

Jim
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:33 PM   #13
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I'm a noob, so take this with a grain of salt. I installed my begi-s about a month ago. My gauge reads negative pressure unless I really stomp on it. If you start in 3rd gear and go to full throttle, does your boost gauge move towards zero?

Jim
Thanks Jim don't worry about it I'm a noob too trying to learn. I have to admit I wasn't really stomping it due to the ping worry but while reving it before shift I did notice it move toward zero but never beyond. So you think I may not be reving it high enough?
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Old 10-04-2008, 10:39 PM   #14
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I'm a noob, so take this with a grain of salt. I installed my begi-s about a month ago. My gauge reads negative pressure unless I really stomp on it. If you start in 3rd gear and go to full throttle, does your boost gauge move towards zero?

Jim

Let me be more specific, Iím a noob trying to learn while at the same time not blowing up an engine.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:23 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by larryd96 View Post
Not sure if itís the valve adjusters clicking or if itís a legit ping and the funny thing is the clicking/ping/knock seems to be coming from under the car but that could be me.
Check the downpipe cross bolt. That tends to rattle loose, and needs to be re-tightened.
Stephanie
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:26 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by larryd96 View Post
When I fired her up vacuum on the boost gauge read 20 which from my what I've read on the site is about right but when test driving I couldn't get her to go into boost and thought with a 3" exhaust back it wouldn't take much to start spooling up.
Check to make sure the "c" shaped clip is still holding the actuator bracket on to the turbine housing.
Stephanie
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:27 AM   #17
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Check the downpipe cross bolt. That tends to rattle loose, and needs to be re-tightened.
Stephanie
I know this sounds stupid, but, make sure it is not the keys on your key chain rattling.
Stephanie
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:56 AM   #18
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Check to make sure the "c" shaped clip is still holding the actuator bracket on to the turbine housing.
Stephanie

Thanks Stephanie for your help I think my initial post for pinging at idle was more paranoia on my part since I installed the bipes this afternoon it seemed the rough idle was not as rough after all, if thatís possible. Anyway, on my first test drive I was disappointed when I wasn't able to produce any boost and from what I've read on other setups similar to mine, begi s with 3" back, I thought I should be able to make boost at a rather low RPM. What RPM would you expect I should make boost? Sorry for my noobishness I think I know what youíre talking about and I will check first thing in the morning and post my findings. Thanks again.
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:58 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner View Post
Check the downpipe cross bolt. That tends to rattle loose, and needs to be re-tightened.
Stephanie

Thanks Stephanie, I'll check it out.
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Old 10-05-2008, 01:02 AM   #20
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I know this sounds stupid, but, make sure it is not the keys on your key chain rattling.
Stephanie

Wouldn't that be a hoot. If it did come down to my keys rattling I don't think I could bring myself to admit it to ya'll.
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