It isn't how long you burp it, but where you burp it. Air will not go down to come out. If you have a higher spot at the back of the head than any part of the hose coming forward you will have air in it.
And follow Hustler's advice on sealing the bumper inlet to the radiator with no leaks, after all, he is a moderator. If you don't do it he will ban you. :giggle: Actually, I think I mentioned it also. |
Originally Posted by RavynX
(Post 581476)
How is the fitment with the PWR radiator? Can you keep your AC unit with that one? Not sure if I'd have to replace the fans I have now if I went Koyo or PWR.
Originally Posted by RavynX
(Post 581476)
According to his excel sheet of mods/repairs that previous owner gave me...
110 mm s/c pulley 131 mm crank pulley For example, I'm running a 120mm supercharger pulley and a 60mm crank pulley. That gets me 225 max rwhp. This also calls into question the previous owner's claim of 250 rwhp. :doh: |
Originally Posted by Double O 86
(Post 581547)
I've got the stock A/C condenser and the Track Dog Racing intercooler in front of my PWR radiator. It had to be moved and tilted back a little, so there was some cutting done.
Well, somethings wrong there; maybe Flyin' Miata has the correct specs. Nobody would put a pulley ratio of 1.2 on an MP62 supercharger. For example, I'm running a 120mm supercharger pulley and a 60mm crank pulley. That gets me 225 max rwhp. This also calls into question the previous owner's claim of 250 rwhp. :doh: Here's the guy's tech sheet of everything he's done... http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?k...wYTRrLVE&hl=en I will say though that it does feel faster than my lightly modded s2k, but you only need about 155 whp or so on the Miata to be about as quick as the s2k if you're just using power-to-weight ratios. |
If you have a tuning question, much like you alluded to on the other forum, you should ask it here and not listen to those bench-racing ******s on the other board. BTW, Stanford is cool in my book.
You should especially ignore the guys who run around in $30k cars and brag that they outran you on their home track...yet can't seem to find their datalogs to compare for when they were gang-fucked in the wet. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 581555)
If you have a tuning question, much like you alluded to on the other forum, you should ask it here and not listen to those bench-racing ******s on the other board. BTW, Stanford is cool in my book.
You should especially ignore the guys who run around in $30k cars and brag that they outran you on their home track...yet can't seem to find their datalogs to compare for when they were gang-fucked in the wet. Yeah, Stanford is a cool guy. I autocross with him at the SASCA and SPOKES events here in town. His red s2k is a beast! |
Originally Posted by RavynX
(Post 581557)
Yeah, Stanford is a cool guy. I autocross with him at the SASCA and SPOKES events here in town. His red s2k is a beast!
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 581572)
Doesn't it now have the sequential box and the ford IRS?
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Originally Posted by RavynX
(Post 581573)
Something to that extent. Everything from the transmission back is non-honda, haha.
s2k Full Race gt35r parts (450whp or so) Motec 8c Getrag sequential box ford IRS Moton w/ external tanks ccw10's w/275f 315r Hoosiers fast fast fast and he's pretty good at tuning: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/Stan2.php |
Here's a quick vid of my Miata when I arrived in Provo, UT to stay for the night...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5uTcHh3qWI Here's Stan's S in front of me at one of our autocrosses (it was dusty that day)... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P92QeqLa0m8 |
Wow, so the previous owner sent allllll of his documentation of what has been done to the car. Receipts, installation guides, everything. Very nice!
BRPerformance Track Dog Racing MP62 Supercharger (installation guides mention R1 (205whp) and R4 (250whp) packages). The invoice does not specify a package. Invoice states: TDR MP62 supercharger kit with 6-rib pulley, 95mm crank pulley, 70mm throttle body. Below that it mentions Gates 6-rib supercharger belt for 105mm crank pulley. :dunno: All purchased 5 years ago (2005). Hydra EMS & injectors installed 2 years later (2007) Dyno Tuned shortly after Timing belt, Water pump & gasket & o-ring, fuel filter, & clutch slave all replaced at 63k miles in 2007 110mm crank pulley installed beginning of 2007 but documents state "did not work, gas mileage went down to 21mpg" Not sure if he kept or not. Supercharger rebuilt in 2008 at 70k miles Those are the main points in the documents aside from all of the suspension upgrades and the TDR Intercooler. I'll be checking the thermostat later this week or sometime on Saturday. I have engine/tranny/&diff fluid coming in soon to replace. Oh! and I finally got it registered in Texas. Woot! |
See if it has the TDR style radiator ducting. If it does, go ahead and buy a PWR radiator unless you're a cheap gay (like me). A PWR with the TDR plastic ducting/blocking plate crap is proven to work in 100* heat at the track. If you have questions about specifics, PM johnwag who works at TDR. He is my boyfriend.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 582214)
See if it has the TDR style radiator ducting. If it does, go ahead and buy a PWR radiator unless you're a cheap gay (like me). A PWR with the TDR plastic ducting/blocking plate crap is proven to work in 100* heat at the track. If you have questions about specifics, PM johnwag who works at TDR. He is my boyfriend.
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Originally Posted by RavynX
(Post 582235)
Are there any other solutions for the intercooler? I was at our local autocross meeting tonight and brought the Miata over. Everyone was telling me the TDR radiators don't let much airflow through it which is most likely causing the issue. They said even if I shrouded it, it wouldn't do much. One had put a fan on one side (off of the car) and couldn't feel much on the other side of the intercooler. :facepalm: I haven't gotten a chance to look up into the bumper area to see if there is any type of special TDR ducting. The intercooler, ac condenser, and radiator sit basically right next to one another since the intercooler piping enters and exists from the top rather than the sides.
There is a short list of people in Texas with reliable FI Miatas, I'm one of them, Gary who owns TDR is another and with a big radiator, blocking plates/ducting, and his FMIC set-up he sees "good" intake air temps verified with a gauge in his 300whp car and the car runs wonderfully in the heat. The kit you have is tested on the track, and has proven reliable over the past 5-years with very few problems on hundreds of cars. I've only run in Austin once but it was very entertaining to see the suspended disbelief when I ran my turbo car without overheating, like they'd seen a ghost. You can do better ducting than what Gary sells at home, though his will get the job done. We have threads here about ducting with lots of pictures or you can look at my car next time you're in Dallas. We've told you what to do, we know what works, we've done it before...so do whatever you want. |
This wasn't the Austin crew. These were the San Antonio autocross guys; I know autox and track are different so let's not get into that, they've been to the track. One currently has a turbo'd NA miata and ran into similar issues. Other friend has had super and turbocharged CRX and were sharing their experiences with me. I didn't mean to step on anyone's toes I'm just trying to get different points of view on the subject so I'm not stuck on one path hoping it'll work. This whole area of expertise is brand new to me so I'm taking in what I can.
I'm currently reading other build threads to see how people have been ducting their intercooler/radiator setup. |
Heh, interesting. I was able to view the Hydra Nemesis EMS software while driving the car tonight. AFR ranged from 14.2 - 15.2 cruising on the highway.
Ambient Temp: 20* C (68* F) Speed: 63 mph Tach: 3100 rpm ------------------------------------------------------ Fan Speed: 0 A/C: Off Coolant: 88* C Fan Speed: 1 A/C: Off Coolant: 88-90* C Fan Speed: 1 A/C: On Coolant: 89-92* C =========================== Ambient Temp: 20* C (68* F) Speed: 75 mph Tach: 4000 rpm ------------------------------------------------------ Fan Speed: 0 A/C: Off Coolant: 89-90* C Fan Speed: 1 A/C: Off Coolant: 90-92* C Fan Speed: 1 A/C: On Coolant: 92-93* C =========================== Arriving back at the apartment, idling in front of the garage with A/C off and Fan Speed at 0 temperatures climbed from 88* C to 95-104* C |
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Those tables are fine. I know a lot of the spokes guys...I don't know any that can run their car in July at HHR without overheating. They also don't understand the need for ducting. If you're referring to that teal/mint green miata...nice guy, sincerely cool dude, great driver...that car was a little "disjointed" last time I saw it.
On to the cooling discussion: See this car, it makes well over 350whp...easily. This is pic is from when "we" ran it in the Mojave desert in 101* heat. See that little air foil divider thingy 1" below the top of the bumper-mouth? That's all the air that goes to the radiator, which is ducted, and it runs cool. http://i45.tinypic.com/sg0g8i.jpg The TDR FMIC set-up works, I've seen the data first hand, you're auto-x buddies have not, and this set-up is proven to work over and over for the last 5-years in Texas heat by drivers who are no slouch. This is pretty simple, you can dick around and try other stuff and spend more money or you can put a radiator in it, duct it, drive the car...or you can waste your time and fail. There are a handful of people here who've tracked turbo Miatas in the summer successfully, we know what to do. BTW, I think Savington has a badass radiator for sale. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 582421)
On to the cooling discussion:
See this car, it makes well over 350whp...easily. This is pic is from when "we" ran it in the Mojave desert in 101* heat. See that little air foil divider thingy 1" below the top of the bumper-mouth? That's all the air that goes to the radiator, which is ducted, and it runs cool. |
Originally Posted by BarbyCar
(Post 582459)
Care to share some more details (or a link to same) on the arrangement of ducts behind that little air foil divider thingy? Would I be right to think it diverts the outlet of the IC to exit below the car?
You can also get it on Forza now: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/...a912e782a5.jpg |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 582461)
It dumps to the sides and there is a chamber built for the radiator. I don't have any more pics but you can search for them from the old magazine article now on the "modified mag" website when Matt wrote-up the build with SCC. edit: http://www.modified.com/projectcars/...ack/index.html
You can also get it on Forza now: http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4034/...a912e782a5.jpg I've never worked with sheet metal before so this ducting stuff will be quite an undertaking for me. Wish I had a bigger garage. ;) |
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