Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Active rear wing test

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-16-2013, 01:07 PM
  #41  
Senior Member
 
1993ka24det's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Race Track & St Pete FL
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 57
Default

Could use a variable pressure switch, that could open new possibilities.
1993ka24det is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 01:17 PM
  #42  
Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Rallas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lexington SC
Posts: 1,176
Total Cats: 35
Default

Most of the brake pressure switches I have messed with that trigger brake lights have very low pressure setpoints so that the lights will turn on with the slightest pressure from the pedal. It would be nice to have the switch only activate at higher pressures. I am not sure what would be considered moderate brake pressure on a miata. Keith, I know you did a good bit of brake system work a while ago, do you have any idea what a good setpoint or range would be for moderate brake pressure? I will have to go take a look at the Napa book. I have sent them questions before online. They might be able to suggest some options if I can give them an actuation pressure range.

As mentioned earlier it would be nice to have something that could read a proportional signal for proportional control or just a higher setpoint so that your wing would only move to the high drag position when brakes are applied with moderate to high pressure. This should eliminate concerns with the wing actuating during light braking.

I was wondering if anyone is familiar with newer traction/stability control OEM setups that might have more useful switches/sensors that provide brake pressure info to the ECU.
Rallas is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 01:25 PM
  #43  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Keith@FM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 754
Total Cats: 118
Default

A 1991 has an approximate 17:1 pedal/fluid pressure ratio. Since "moderate" is such a general term and the actual pedal pressure for a given braking amount will vary depending on what you've got for calipers, pads and rotor sizes, I'll let you measure your "moderate" pedal pressure and do the multiplication.
Keith@FM is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 01:35 PM
  #44  
Senior Member
 
1993ka24det's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: The Race Track & St Pete FL
Posts: 638
Total Cats: 57
Default

I work 8 years on AC-130 Hydraulics and there are plenty of different switches. Just like on the boost pump activates @ 20 psi and deactivates @30 psi just to give an idea.
1993ka24det is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 01:50 PM
  #45  
Newb
 
dutchbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 9
Default

Switch: McMaster-Carr

However, I would rather have a brake pressure transducer hooked up to MegaSquirt and/or Arduino. The wing would be driven by a MOSFET, just because I hate relays.

Transducer: XT Racing 1/8" Pressure Sensor | MotoSport
dutchbag is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:05 PM
  #46  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

Oh thats a great idea using brake pressure, how hot do the actuators get just from the continuous use?
triple88a is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:10 PM
  #47  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Keith@FM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 754
Total Cats: 118
Default

I didn't check them, I was checking something else after the long test session and forgot. They certainly have lots of cooling airflow!
Keith@FM is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:18 PM
  #48  
Ben
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
 
Ben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
Default

Not a brake pressure switch, but a pressure transducer should be used. You can get one for $150, maybe less if you search around.

What other data should be used as inputs to rotate the wing?

VSS and/or deltaVSS?
Accel?
Other?
Is a time component needed?

Further, I don't see why a position sensor can not be added, allowing for variable control of the wing element, either multi stage or continuously variable.
__________________
Chief of Floor Sweeping, DIYAutoTune.com & AMP EFI
Crew Chief, Car Owner & Least Valuable Driver, HongNorrthRacing

91 Turbo | 10AE Turbo | 01 Track Rat | #323 Mazda Champcar

Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Ben is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:27 PM
  #49  
Newb
 
dutchbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 9
Default

Ben, check this little guy out: XT Racing 1/8" Pressure Sensor | MotoSport

VSS, deltaVSS, Accel, any sort of gyro input along the vertical axis, and definitely time. For safety, I would include some logic that holds the wing up until all inputs are "down" for a second or so. The reason why active aero is banned in most racing classes is because of the danger in transient conditions. If you are pushing the car with active aero, failure of the aero to do what you expect means an off or worse. Once the actuator is told to go down, it needs to complete a full rotation to get back up (1.2 seconds). A "down-delay" would prevent a lot of problems.

The Miata headlight actuator works off position sensors and has its own little logic system and cams in it. It is not designed for intermediate positions. It's a one-and-done deal for up or down, so variable position would require something else. The point of this exercise is to use the cheap and available headlight actuators to do this, so I'm happy living in the constraints of pure up/down.
dutchbag is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:40 PM
  #50  
Ben
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
 
Ben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
Default

Originally Posted by dutchbag
Ben, check this little guy out: XT Racing 1/8" Pressure Sensor | MotoSport
That looks like it will work perfect for the purpose.

VSS, deltaVSS, Accel, any sort of gyro input along the vertical axis, and definitely time. For safety, I would include some logic that holds the wing up until all inputs are "down" for a second or so.
Same train of thought I had.

The Miata headlight actuator works off position sensors and has its own little logic system and cams in it. It is not designed for intermediate positions. It's a one-and-done deal for up or down, so variable position would require something else. The point of this exercise is to use the cheap and available headlight actuators to do this, so I'm happy living in the constraints of pure up/down.
How do they respond when de-energized in mid-position?
The same controller could operate both 2-position and variable position actuators. Just a minor software difference. A position reference sensor can be incorporated for fault detection with either type of system.

It may also be worth looking at other cars with flippy headlights and low cost actuators to see if there's possibly a better option out there. S13 240SX comes to mind as a possibility, but that's because I think there's a pair of them around here somewhere.
__________________
Chief of Floor Sweeping, DIYAutoTune.com & AMP EFI
Crew Chief, Car Owner & Least Valuable Driver, HongNorrthRacing

91 Turbo | 10AE Turbo | 01 Track Rat | #323 Mazda Champcar

Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Ben is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:48 PM
  #51  
Newb
 
dutchbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 9
Default

dutchbag is offline  
Old 09-16-2013, 02:50 PM
  #52  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Keith@FM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 754
Total Cats: 118
Default

The Concentric 5:1 linear actuators that scenturion mentioned would be a good option for full control, I think. They've got position sensors in them and the Ardunio controls are already worked out. Search eBay for linear actuators and you'll find all sorts of interesting options. I never did that before his suggestion because the SPAL unit basically fell into my lap.

If you pull the power from a Miata headlight motor mid-cycle, it will complete the cycle when power is restored. And they only spin one direction, so you'd have to go all the way down and up again.
Keith@FM is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 11:46 AM
  #53  
Ben
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
 
Ben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,659
Total Cats: 134
Default

Thoughts on using a wiper motor instead of a headlight motor? It would allow for variable position, variable speed, and bi-directional control.
__________________
Chief of Floor Sweeping, DIYAutoTune.com & AMP EFI
Crew Chief, Car Owner & Least Valuable Driver, HongNorrthRacing

91 Turbo | 10AE Turbo | 01 Track Rat | #323 Mazda Champcar

Originally Posted by concealer404
Buy an MSPNP Pro, you'll feel better.
Ben is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 01:54 PM
  #54  
Newb
 
dutchbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 9
Default

Originally Posted by Ben
Thoughts on using a wiper motor instead of a headlight motor? It would allow for variable position, variable speed, and bi-directional control.
The headlight actuator is basically a wiper motor with built in positional controls. You could reverse the drive polarity of the headlight actuator and apply PWM with an H-Bridge to accomplish all of that open-loop. Using a wiper motor would definitely require closed loop feedback through an encoder and home switch, or if you're feeling confident of your controls, a potentiometer.
dutchbag is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 01:55 PM
  #55  
Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
 
Rallas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lexington SC
Posts: 1,176
Total Cats: 35
Default

How about this guy for us cheap bastards? $36

Pressure Transducer or Sender 1000 PSI for Oil Fuel Air | eBay

The same seller has a 1600psi sensor. I asked the seller for a datasheet(attached). These sensors can withstand 200% full scale pressure so 1600psi sensor should be good to go for our aplication and even the 1000psi could work.
The 0-4.5V input would be easy to use on Arduino.
Attached Files
Rallas is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 02:12 PM
  #56  
Newb
 
dutchbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 9
Default

Nice find. For $36, it's worth a shot to see if it gives good data.
dutchbag is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 02:43 PM
  #57  
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
mr_hyde's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 798
Total Cats: 24
Default

Wiper motors like to just spin and spin in one direction and they only have logic to return to a single position, not two (or variable). Without complicated controls, the headlight motor is much better.

My only concern with this being hooked to the brake light is triple digit trail braking at the limit where you are counting on a certain level of grip that might not be there with the wing in air brake mode.

Edit: I typed this about 2 hours before my phone sent it. Psi switch on brakes would be better to trigger.
mr_hyde is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 02:53 PM
  #58  
Newb
 
dutchbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 35
Total Cats: 9
Default

Originally Posted by mr_hyde
My only concern with this being hooked to the brake light is triple digit trail braking at the limit where you are counting on a certain level of grip that might not be there with the wing in air brake mode.
Indeed, that reliance on a complicated system is why active aero is banned across most racing classes. Still, it's fun to play with!

I wonder if anyone has ever applied this to a diffuser, where you would have more aggressive channels on a multi-element diffuser that are opened at low speed...You could probably make the system quite stealthy and invisible for TT classes...
dutchbag is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 04:04 PM
  #59  
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
triple88a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 10,454
Total Cats: 1,799
Default

Originally Posted by dutchbag
Indeed, that reliance on a complicated system is why active aero is banned across most racing classes. Still, it's fun to play with!

I wonder if anyone has ever applied this to a diffuser, where you would have more aggressive channels on a multi-element diffuser that are opened at low speed...You could probably make the system quite stealthy and invisible for TT classes...

The only work you need to the defuser is a motorcycle engine with a giant fan on it to suck the life out of the ground and give you 400 mph downforce at 20mph. We're messing with banned mods, might as well go nuts at it.
triple88a is offline  
Old 09-17-2013, 04:15 PM
  #60  
Junior Member
 
M.Adamovits's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 323
Total Cats: 23
Default

Sucker..

Attached Thumbnails Active rear wing test-2j1.jpg  
M.Adamovits is offline  


Quick Reply: Active rear wing test



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:14 AM.