good win racing claims they are great but Ive not heard any comments.

first off, I have a set of new Willwood E front and porterfield R4 rears.

but my first event with this car ( been doing em for 10 years) is a 3 day event so I need a second set.
car is pretty set up 245 wheel, no abs no bias controller, good win front and rear willwood brake kit.

also thinking of adding an adjustable proportioning valve but I dont know if I really need it or not. I would want it in the cockpit so I either need to run hard lines but might it be possible to use one of those balance bar adjusters ?

something like this.
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content....ist2&id=34&m=b

 

I know somebody on here made a balance bar adjuster work with a wilwood propvalve mounted in the engine compartment with the adjuster on the dash.

 

I've tried a few Wilwood compounds for the front on my car. I don't remember exactly which was which, but IIRC:

E: terrible track pads, I was overheating, fading, and destroying them.

H: IIRC, these worked better than E, but still didn't have enough bite for my purposes (rear was still locking first).

B: Solved the rear lockup problem, but still not quite what I wanted.

I might be confusing H and B, don't remember. Wilwood has an application guide PDF that gives the temperature range/etc of the various compounds, and it's good to look at. Alas, their site appears to be down right now.

I went with a set Hawk Blues for the track and have been the happiest with them. I thought about some Carbotechs, but they cost three times as much as the Hawks and I didn't want to pay that much.

--Ian

 

awesome, thats what I needed to hear. I know FM has some good stuff but I really was doubting their recommendation when I ordered them. my bad for not being clear I guess, said best track pad and I had tons of things to think about and learn since I'm a miata noob.oh well 15 bucks to ship back is worth it to get the right I have experience with hawk and carbotech.

 

Yes I have done this myself. Cut the adjuster **** (carefully) off of the prop valve, leaving the threaded rod intact (do not cut the rod). Buy a Wilwood remote cable adjuster. Mount it, route it, and screw it into the prop valve with a dab of loctite. Done. Works great.