Battery Preferences
10-26-2011, 11:46 AM
#64
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To me having a bitchin stereo in a noisy little convertible that is more about the driving experience than anything is just silly. I have a stereo I can hear it on my way to work It is good enough.
Bob
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10-26-2011, 12:17 PM
#65
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no. newposts button makes all sections look same.
this is also not the "judge y8s" section.
my driving experience is enhanced by having excellent sound quality while driving. but since it's not primarily on the track, I'll let the non-snow-covered-daily-driver-with-subwoofer crowd take this thread back over.
I don't think the amps and the subwoofer are going to help much with lap times.
To me having a bitchin stereo in a noisy little convertible that is more about the driving experience than anything is just silly. I have a stereo I can hear it on my way to work It is good enough.
Bob
To me having a bitchin stereo in a noisy little convertible that is more about the driving experience than anything is just silly. I have a stereo I can hear it on my way to work It is good enough.
Bob
my driving experience is enhanced by having excellent sound quality while driving. but since it's not primarily on the track, I'll let the non-snow-covered-daily-driver-with-subwoofer crowd take this thread back over.
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10-26-2011, 12:52 PM
#66
http://www.ballisticparts.com/
These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
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02-18-2012, 12:18 AM
#67
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http://www.ballisticparts.com/
These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
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02-19-2012, 09:37 PM
#68
http://www.ballisticparts.com/
These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
These things are the jam. My brother is one of the owners of the company, so I'm more than a little biased, but these are the best light weight batteries on the market. I had a prototype 20 cell in my S2000 for a while that weighed 3 lbs 5oz and started the car better than the factory Honda lead acid battery that it replaced. Plus they're seemingly indestructible, and they only lose a negligible amount of charge from sitting for months at a time. For a track car, I don't think there's a better option. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
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02-19-2012, 09:53 PM
#71
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....erminal_posts/
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02-20-2012, 09:33 AM
#74
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Sorry I meant terminal posts. Will something like this bolt onto the battery so I can use my stock terminals?
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....erminal_posts/
http://www.braillebattery.com/index....erminal_posts/
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02-20-2012, 10:29 AM
#75
If you are shooting for a 3pound battery, make some note of the stock cable weight and the weight of the terminals.
The best placement IMO would be between the alt and starter with even thinner cables than stock (or keep stock for reduced resistance).
Also place the master switch in the same mix and you have shaved off the last oz from the battery circuit.
Since I'm at min weight with the stock battery and get even better corner balance with some extra lead in the battery box I don't feel that interested. But A friend of mine added a 2lbs battery to his Clubman, a 1000lbs formula like car, running carbs and no alt.
The best placement IMO would be between the alt and starter with even thinner cables than stock (or keep stock for reduced resistance).
Also place the master switch in the same mix and you have shaved off the last oz from the battery circuit.
Since I'm at min weight with the stock battery and get even better corner balance with some extra lead in the battery box I don't feel that interested. But A friend of mine added a 2lbs battery to his Clubman, a 1000lbs formula like car, running carbs and no alt.
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09-27-2013, 11:40 AM
#76
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7.7 lbs Yuasa YTX14AHL: 210 CCA, 12 Ah, 7.7 lbs; 5 5/16" x 3 1/2" x 6 9/16"
I use a Battery Tender Jr. whenever the car will sit for more than a few days at a time. I've had it since summer of last year with no issues. I also tend not to drive it when it's really cold out (e.g. 30s in the morning) so I can't speak to its starting ability in those conditions.
I use a Battery Tender Jr. whenever the car will sit for more than a few days at a time. I've had it since summer of last year with no issues. I also tend not to drive it when it's really cold out (e.g. 30s in the morning) so I can't speak to its starting ability in those conditions.
The car sometimes sits for months at a time, but always on the charger.
I also have no idea what sort of draw/drain/dark magic I have going on.
I'm trying to figure out my next move. I like the size and weight and cost (<$100) for the Yuasa. I don't like that I've had two die in a couple of years. I'm currently looking at:
- Odyssey PC680. The stats are not as good as the Yuasa and it's heavier, but people seem to find them to be a good compromise.
- A Yellow Top. Significantly heavier but reputation for taking abuse like a champ.
- Evo2 16 Cell. Even lighter and smaller than my Yuasa and allegedly doesn't need a charger but benefits from one. It's almost three times as expensive and won't work with my current charger. It's bad enough killing $90 batteries; I don't want to be replacing $250 batteries this often.
- A replacement Yuasa with a cut-off switch.
Last edited by Scrappy Jack; 09-27-2013 at 12:46 PM.
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09-27-2013, 02:53 PM
#79
If you have a short some place you'll kill a even 50 lb BMW monster battery if you let it sit for any length of time. Find your electrical issue and then put another Yuasa, or a Ballistic in it.
Put an ammeter in line between your positive terminal and battery cable, then pull fuses one at a time while sombody watches the ammeter for the current to drop off. This will at least give you a place to start looking for your short.
Also, drive your car more often.
Put an ammeter in line between your positive terminal and battery cable, then pull fuses one at a time while sombody watches the ammeter for the current to drop off. This will at least give you a place to start looking for your short.
Also, drive your car more often.
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09-27-2013, 05:34 PM
#80
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If it sits for a month I'll have to jump it. Two or maybe three weeks is no problem. After a few minutes running it will be charged and recrank like nothing happened. They last about two years.
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