I will be upgrading my bushings next month. Im thinking a poly kit for all of the control arms. What do you guys recommend for diff and motor mounts

I was thinking this for the diff
http://www.miataroadster.com/miataro.../i-407776.aspx

and motor mounts no idea

maybe these?
http://www.miataroadster.com/miataro.../i-407704.aspx


any suggestions?

 

Get the Mazda competition motor mounts from Mazdaspeed. The delrin mounts will vibrate everything to the point where bolts will back out.

 

Prothane units on Ebay or from 949racing if they are still a sponsor on here.

 

even if i get solid diff mounts it will vibrate?

 

My '97 doesn't have rubber left in the suspension. Well, the mazdacomp motor mounts I guess are rubber. I don't notice any real vibrations. A little at idle if I pay attention. Road impacts are more of a whack than a thump. If the ride gets way worse you're probably bottoming out the shocks. The usual complaint from idiots doing coil overs and bushings at the same time. "how could my $100 Egay coilovers suck? Must be the bushings" My wife drives the car a lot and never complains about it. She's not a fan of the flat black paint because she gets odd looks on the road, but other than that no one has ever ridden in my car and complained. Except Clovis fried my front shocks....other than that.

 

I went Energy Suspension on my V8 car but the SAABata is getting this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prothane-199...item3f15926995

Waaayyy cheaper than ES.

 

That prothane eBay kit or get a full energy suspension master kit from renown performance on here for cheapest.

 

They went up!

I paid 134 shipped for my set.

 

The poly bushings arent much of an upgrade from rubber in the control arms unless your rubber bushings are completely shot.

If I had it to do over again, Id skip the poly and go straight to delrin.

 

I thought derlin wore quicker?

 

They can IIRC.

 

What is the difference between the 90-97 and 99-05 poly bushings, the sway bar bushing size?

 

Na kit comes with bushings for the na end links

 

Wow that is cheap! I remember getting the full ES master kit for $180 and thinking it was a deal at the time.
I would not recommend anything stiffer than poly on the diff mounts if you street the car at all. I swapped poly mounts in on the wife's 97 and it was pretty noisy, made any trip longer than 45 min unbearable, especially arounf 55-70mph under load. If all you do is drive on track, it doesn't matter. Delrin does not last as long, but will result in less "give" than poly. Once again, "long" can be relative when only used on track.

 

Thanks. So other than those bits, the NA and NB kits are cross-compatible?

 

What kind of noise does it make? I'm just trying to analyze whether my diff is going out, or if it's just the mounts

 

I have the prothane and have been very pleased. Take the time to add zerk fittings.

 

I wish I still had the sound file that I recorded before I swapped factory bushings back in. It sounds like a gear whine, is all I can say. Un misteakable. I only heard the sound under load and would only come in in a specific speed range 50-70mph. If you had a gear problem I would suspect that you would hear noises all the time and they would sound a lot more violent. I blew a 1.6 diff and had very clear indicators before I blew it. Not a lot of warning though.
I was thinking about adding the Zerks when I did my bushing swap, but started thinking what I would be squirting in there. I couldn't find the sticky suspension goop in grease gun tubes and was not about to start greasing everyjoing every 10k miles or whatever it would take. What do people use when lubing with the Zerk fittings?

 

The black Poly is supposed to be impregnated with graphite. I got a full set with diff mounts for 110.00 shipped about 6 months ago off Ebay.

My diff now makes noise almost like exhaust drone. It comes on like a switch at 4100rpms till redline. More load makes it louder up to a point. Less load doesn't always make it stop, unless under 4100rpm.

As far as the poly making a difference, it soo did. I did the upper control arms first and drove for a week just to feel the difference. Then did the rears and the diff. Like night and day even though my rubber was still good. The main change would have to be the feeling that the diff was moving around in harder cornering and with power, was gone.

 

It should actually make the car more smooth, since the suspension is more free to travel.