Coolant Reroute for Race car
Admittedly my miata is just a miata engine.
I have no heater core. Would not miss the throttle body getting bypassed (unless there is something I dont know?) Going to add a megasquirt and blower soon but my real reason is I need the space on the front and hotside of my engine bay! Does anyone have a diagram that eliminates the heater core and gets the engine bay cleaned up ? I have no problem getting to the back of my motor. Thanks ~J |
1 Attachment(s)
I'm no expert, but this should get you started:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427222052 You should be reading THIS STICKY: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/ |
Originally Posted by dcamp2
(Post 1218023)
I'm no expert, but this should get you started:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427222052 You should be reading THIS STICKY: https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/ Few things I didnt see: 1. no heater core option 2. no throttle body coolant delete. Are there any issues with deleting #2? |
You didn't read very well.
POST #21 of STICKY THREAD ON COOLING:
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1147455)
No issues with deleting the coolant lines to the TB. Those lines are meant to heat the idle control valve to prevent ice formation under certain high-humidity conditions. Has no impact at all on engine cooling. I run without them on both cars and have never had an issue -- so the icing phenomena is rare.
|
Originally Posted by dcamp2
(Post 1218038)
You didn't read very well.
POST #21 of STICKY THREAD ON COOLING: Was just reading thru and noticed that. Was planning to come back after and edit that.. Busted :D Didnt see heater core (yet..) and wondering about the oil filter part too. |
The answer to your heater core question is at the bottom of his diagram.
|
You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1218052)
You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1218052)
You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.
|
Yes to both, although if youre eliminating the heater core, you might as well just loop them. Otherwise the "proper" way would be to weld the mixing manifold and rear cover, both are kind of a pain
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1218138)
Yes to both, although if youre eliminating the heater core, you might as well just loop them. Otherwise the "proper" way would be to weld the mixing manifold and rear cover, both are kind of a pain
|
Man, just look at your heater hoses, disconnect the ends opposite of the heater/firewall.
-Then disconnect the ends attached to the heater tubes. -Buy a 12" piece of 5/8" heater/coolant hose, connect one end to the connection at the rear of the head, the other end connects to the long metal tube that you disconnected from under the exhaust manifold. -Cut hose to length and connect -Now go remove your heater core and crap. |
1 Attachment(s)
Im a bit list on half the comments. Part of me thinks it's attitude and the other half thinks it's me doing a bad job of explaining. Here is my current setup
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427250117 So what I need is less coolant hoses so I can get that supercharger to mount under the hood :). Think the $16 reroute thread may be the ticket!! |
What's the long line over the header? If that's the old heater core return line, you'll wanna loop that to behind the head, which is looks like you already have? I can't tell.
|
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1218229)
What's the long line over the header? If that's the old heater core return line, you'll wanna loop that to behind the head, which is looks like you already have? I can't tell.
|
Anyone know of an alternate to the lower coolant neck?
I am looking for one that goes the other direction Thanks ~J |
plug the hole and flip if around if you aren't running AC i believe.
|
Yeah it's common to flip them. But it almost looks like it is in your pic. Can you light up the lower part of the engine and actually take a picture that shows us something? Take the stupidcharger out of the picture too.
|
Originally Posted by dcamp2
(Post 1218078)
Doesn't the thermostat have a small flow opening even when it's closed? Maybe that could be drilled out a little to compensate for a lack of heater line passageway? (If the OP wanted to completely delete the heater lines)
-Ryan |
I drilled a hole in my thermostat as well. Also ran my heater core inlet directly to the water pump inlet but put a reducer inline to simulate the pressure drop through the heater core. Don't know if the second part is really needed but was simple and seemed to work.
|
1 Attachment(s)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427422712
I cut and welded the hose that went to the heater core. It still does but.moves up. I would love to just have 1 hose and ideally a single outlet without having to plug anything |
Single outlet from where? You are not understanding everyone. It is really simple. Looking at the firewall, the two heater hose flow paths go like this. Left hose: motor to heater core. Right hose: heater core to mixing manifold. Just like you have it even though you have slightly changed things. Now dissconnect both of the heater hoses, remove your cut and welded steel "hose". Now take a 3 ft piece of 5/8 hose and attach it to where the LEFT heater hose connected to the motor. the other end HAS TO connect to the steel tube which HAS to connect to the mixing manifold. UNLESS you thread tap the hole that the steel tube inserts into and seals by an o-ring. You have no other choice but to keep the steel tube if you cant manage to have the hole threaded, or weld a 5/8 aluminum tube in the hole.
|
Take the metal tube that is in the way and relocate it below the exhaust manifold and below the mixing manifold (water pump inlet) since you have no A/C compressor in the way. As mentioned, it may benefit you to add a moderate restrictor to that line.
Just like in The Wizard of Oz, you'll find out in the end you already have everything you need. |
8 Attachment(s)
Hello all.
I would like some imput on my reroute. Not specificly a race car (solo and street) but it's all delete so kinda fits here. It's a 1.6 engine. Heater and idle control delete. I'm using a 180' super stant on the back of the engine with a 3/16" hole drilled in it for flow, using the stock front neck ( Ya I have a lot of room back there). Turbo coolant lines are running from the water pump inlet to the top/back of the stock neck where the fan thermostat used to be. Front neck is blocked off. The car warms up fine when idling but temps drop right off when on the move. There have not been any 'warm days here yet ( above 10'c) so may be a non issue once it warms up but does anyone see any issues with flow with my setup? Thank you. Detail of the back of the enginehttps://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427642202 To the radiator.https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427642202 Turbo coolant line To the back of the neck. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427642202 Other turbo line to be pump inlet. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427642202 |
Sidebar : I am in the market for a Lotus Seven copy.
|
Sixshotter, if you haven't already check the classified section on my links. Usually a couple for sale in various states of completion. Or get exactly what you want by building your own!
|
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1219541)
Sidebar : I am in the market for a Lotus Seven copy.
:vash: |
First major issue, you're going to have giant heat problems with that downpipe. You cannot make a 90 degree turn with an angle like that, exhaust gas does not like that.
From other member's experience, it'll turn red hot fairly quickly. Replace it with a smooth curved piece of pipe, and it'll run much cooler. And this isn't like a "small" heat issue. This is like a "fix before anything but idling" issue. I say this only because your oil-feed-clamped-on-to-a-brake-line is fairly close to the DP area, and is a recipe for an explosion of the fiery type. Otherwise your reroute is of sound design. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1219707)
First major issue, you're going to have giant heat problems with that downpipe. You cannot make a 90 degree turn with an angle like that, exhaust gas does not like that.
From other member's experience, it'll turn red hot fairly quickly. Replace it with a smooth curved piece of pipe, and it'll run much cooler. And this isn't like a "small" heat issue. This is like a "fix before anything but idling" issue. I say this only because your oil-feed-clamped-on-to-a-brake-line is fairly close to the DP area, and is a recipe for an explosion of the fiery type. Otherwise your reroute is of sound design. re: Sevens, I prefer something with a Miata drivetrain to take advantage of parts and knowledge I already have. But I'm flexible. I don't trust my welding enough to try building one. |
Gentlemen thanks for the keen observations. I will get some shielding on there right away. Fire is bad. Do you think adding a curved deflector inside the down pipe would work to smooth the flow. It's a 3" from an STI so shouldn't impede flow too much. Think I'll point my gopro down there and see how hot it's getting. Again thank you Appretiate the input.
Oh, I put the car on ramps and burped the coolant system. Had a bit of air in there. Temps are more stable now. |
You sure? That really looks like a pipe, cut at a 45* angle, twisted 180*, then rewelded. Big no no.
|
Yes, your correct. It WAS an eBay downpipe that I cut (at the weld) flipped and rewelded. Figure that's a big fail, Eh.
|
Do you expect the weld to fail, or blow a hole in the pipe?
|
Gasses will make a great big glowing red area right on the outside of that turn. The red will also then migrate away and the whole pipe will be red. It isn't disaster, but you should plan for it and wrap the pipe and shield it right there to prevent additional trouble. It will boil your brake fluid and melt the plastic brake reservoir. It will also melt throttle cables, speedo cables, heater hoses, wires, etc. anyway, even without the bend so it all needs shielding.
|
2 Attachment(s)
Thanks, I've wrapped the bottom half of the pipe (below the v band you can't see) but got sidetracked with drivng the car (had been driving without the hood, so much ventation). But I'll get that finished up.
Attachment 184229 |
Just looked at this again
I never saw the pictures before ironically. Based on the location of your water supply- isn't that on the "closed" side of the thermostat? Ie when it's closed it would flow zero water? By now I figure you would have tried it.. Is your chassis a 422? I don't have near that much space and I'm extremely jealous! |
Oh tried it I have. I've driven the s**t out of the all summer. 17+ autox events (most with codrivers) including Spring Nats in Lincoln (oh so under prepared but a blast) Some hot lapping. And 5000km or so on The street. Car hasn't missed a beat and have had no overheating issues.
I'm a little slow but if I understand your question- I assume you are referring to flow to/from the turbo. I have one coolant line before the pump routed to the turbo and from there yes it runs to the closed side of the thermostat witch is the return to the radiator. So I would expect the to act as a by pass. And As I wasn't 100% sure of the flow characteristics I added the small hole in the thermostat to ensure some flow at all times. And I built a book frame. The location of my brake and clutch along with my steering shaft drove me to build my manifold and place the turbo low and close to the block. |
Awesome to hear!
I have a bunch of parts collecting to do a turbo install soon. Just waiting for Monday to start mocking up the manifold and seeing how far forward and under I can get the turbo to mount based on the same challenges! |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:09 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands