Notices
Race Prep Miata race-only chat.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 949 Racing

Coolant Reroute for Race car

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 01:59 PM
  #1  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default Coolant Reroute for Race car

Admittedly my miata is just a miata engine.
I have no heater core. Would not miss the throttle body getting bypassed (unless there is something I dont know?)

Going to add a megasquirt and blower soon but my real reason is I need the space on the front and hotside of my engine bay!

Does anyone have a diagram that eliminates the heater core and gets the engine bay cleaned up ?

I have no problem getting to the back of my motor.

Thanks
~J
Reply
Leave a poscat -2 Leave a negcat
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 02:34 PM
  #2  
dcamp2's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 818
Total Cats: 69
From: Colorado
Default

I'm no expert, but this should get you started:



You should be reading THIS STICKY:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/
Attached Thumbnails Coolant Reroute for Race car-miata%2520cooling.png  
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 02:53 PM
  #3  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default

Originally Posted by dcamp2
I'm no expert, but this should get you started:


You should be reading THIS STICKY:
https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...-thread-79930/
I took a look at that.
Few things I didnt see:
1. no heater core option
2. no throttle body coolant delete.
Are there any issues with deleting #2?
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 03:00 PM
  #4  
dcamp2's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 818
Total Cats: 69
From: Colorado
Default

You didn't read very well.

POST #21 of STICKY THREAD ON COOLING:

Originally Posted by hornetball
No issues with deleting the coolant lines to the TB. Those lines are meant to heat the idle control valve to prevent ice formation under certain high-humidity conditions. Has no impact at all on engine cooling. I run without them on both cars and have never had an issue -- so the icing phenomena is rare.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 03:03 PM
  #5  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default

Originally Posted by dcamp2
You didn't read very well.

POST #21 of STICKY THREAD ON COOLING:
Yep.
Was just reading thru and noticed that. Was planning to come back after and edit that.. Busted

Didnt see heater core (yet..) and wondering about the oil filter part too.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 03:04 PM
  #6  
concealer404's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,917
Total Cats: 2,206
Default

The answer to your heater core question is at the bottom of his diagram.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 03:39 PM
  #7  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #8  
dcamp2's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 818
Total Cats: 69
From: Colorado
Default

Originally Posted by curly
You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.
Doesn't the thermostat have a small flow opening even when it's closed? Maybe that could be drilled out a little to compensate for a lack of heater line passageway? (If the OP wanted to completely delete the heater lines)
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 04:25 PM
  #9  
shuiend's Avatar
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 15,235
Total Cats: 1,700
From: Charleston SC
Default

Originally Posted by curly
You'll wanna loop the Heater core lines, not cap them. So you have water flow until the thermostat opens.
Would water flow through turbo lines be enough?
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 07:19 PM
  #10  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

Yes to both, although if youre eliminating the heater core, you might as well just loop them. Otherwise the "proper" way would be to weld the mixing manifold and rear cover, both are kind of a pain
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 09:50 PM
  #11  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default

Originally Posted by curly
Yes to both, although if youre eliminating the heater core, you might as well just loop them. Otherwise the "proper" way would be to weld the mixing manifold and rear cover, both are kind of a pain
Do you have a picture or reference of that? My main driver is getting rid of hoses and freeing up space under the hood
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:09 PM
  #12  
brainzata's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 542
Total Cats: 17
From: Bay Area CA
Default

Man, just look at your heater hoses, disconnect the ends opposite of the heater/firewall.
-Then disconnect the ends attached to the heater tubes.
-Buy a 12" piece of 5/8" heater/coolant hose, connect one end to the connection at the rear of the head, the other end connects to the long metal tube that you disconnected from under the exhaust manifold.
-Cut hose to length and connect
-Now go remove your heater core and crap.
Old Mar 24, 2015 | 10:21 PM
  #13  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default

Im a bit list on half the comments. Part of me thinks it's attitude and the other half thinks it's me doing a bad job of explaining. Here is my current setup


So what I need is less coolant hoses so I can get that supercharger to mount under the hood . Think the $16 reroute thread may be the ticket!!
Attached Thumbnails Coolant Reroute for Race car-img_20150324_221709_zps50ofaxyd.jpg  
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 12:16 AM
  #14  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

What's the long line over the header? If that's the old heater core return line, you'll wanna loop that to behind the head, which is looks like you already have? I can't tell.
Old Mar 25, 2015 | 06:09 AM
  #15  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default

Originally Posted by curly
What's the long line over the header? If that's the old heater core return line, you'll wanna loop that to behind the head, which is looks like you already have? I can't tell.
Correct. And that's that's primarily what needs to move
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 08:21 AM
  #16  
YeboGoGo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Total Cats: -11
From: Atlanta ga
Default

Anyone know of an alternate to the lower coolant neck?
I am looking for one that goes the other direction

Thanks
~J
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 08:43 AM
  #17  
Preluding's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,186
Total Cats: 4
From: Fredericton, NB
Default

plug the hole and flip if around if you aren't running AC i believe.
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 11:14 AM
  #18  
curly's Avatar
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 15,192
Total Cats: 1,398
From: Oregon City, OR
Default

Yeah it's common to flip them. But it almost looks like it is in your pic. Can you light up the lower part of the engine and actually take a picture that shows us something? Take the stupidcharger out of the picture too.
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #19  
ThePass's Avatar
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,310
Total Cats: 1,236
From: San Diego
Default

Originally Posted by dcamp2
Doesn't the thermostat have a small flow opening even when it's closed? Maybe that could be drilled out a little to compensate for a lack of heater line passageway? (If the OP wanted to completely delete the heater lines)
Yep, I drilled mine out to 1/4", no alternate water pathways for recirculation before Tstat opens other than that small hole. Works great, On a street car I would probably even step down to 3/16".

-Ryan
__________________
Ryan Passey
Old Mar 26, 2015 | 06:28 PM
  #20  
comradefks's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 351
Total Cats: -2
From: South Bay, CA
Default

I drilled a hole in my thermostat as well. Also ran my heater core inlet directly to the water pump inlet but put a reducer inline to simulate the pressure drop through the heater core. Don't know if the second part is really needed but was simple and seemed to work.
Reply
Leave a poscat -1 Leave a negcat



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:15 AM.