Crank Sensor Sync Error
1 Attachment(s)
Hi Guys, after racing with the new Turbo Engine I got through two meetings which is about 2 hours of racing. On the last race, off the start line all was fine but by the second corner the car coughed, popped, missed, lost power and slowly made it back to the pits.
The ECU (Haltech Elite 1500) come up with two codes P1300 "trigger sync error" & P1301 "trigger reference error". It looks like the OE Crank Angle Sensor lost communication with the OE 4 tooth trigger wheel. The engine is a BP4W with Toda CAM wheels and OE CAM sensor My thoughts on the cause of this is possibly
photo of my Clubman/Locost for reference Attachment 227184 |
Might want to put this in the Haltech sub-forum. I get this code from time to time, but I use a CAS.
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OEM crank sensor is not a Hall sensor. Not known for sync loss with OEM wheel. OEM and aftermarket ecu filter peaks of sine wave sensor output to create on/off like square wave Hall. OEM Early megasquirts had poor filtering. OEM sensor output weakens when hot. Cam angle sensor gets hotter so fades sooner. See if you can log raw voltage and/or adjust filtering. Also carry spare new sensors. Cam angle sensors die in the heat.
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 1606007)
OEM crank sensor is not a Hall sensor. Not known for sync loss with OEM wheel. OEM and aftermarket ecu filter peaks of sine wave sensor output to create on/off like square wave Hall. OEM Early megasquirts had poor filtering. OEM sensor output weakens when hot. Cam angle sensor gets hotter so fades sooner. See if you can log raw voltage and/or adjust filtering. Also carry spare new sensors. Cam angle sensors die in the heat.
I have not done anything with the cam sensor. I do carry spares to the track. Once we get back to the Dyno I’ll see if we can log the voltage with the Haltech, I’m not sure if it will do this. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b057ff766.jpeg |
Sync error is probably the cam sensor. They suck. Since you have an NB1 engine and dont need to seal oil in you can just swap to an aftermarket hall sensor and be done with it. If you have to stick with OEM you need a used factory one that doesn't have the diamond star logo on it. Part store ones and factory ones with the diamond star on it suck.
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