GR124

Hi Guys, after racing with the new Turbo Engine I got through two meetings which is about 2 hours of racing. On the last race, off the start line all was fine but by the second corner the car coughed, popped, missed, lost power and slowly made it back to the pits.
The ECU (Haltech Elite 1500) come up with two codes P1300 "trigger sync error" & P1301 "trigger reference error". It looks like the OE Crank Angle Sensor lost communication with the OE 4 tooth trigger wheel. The engine is a BP4W with Toda CAM wheels and OE CAM sensor

My thoughts on the cause of this is possibly

• Heat affecting the Hall Affect crank sensor? The car has a full floor and there is an oil line just below the sensor along with turbo about 4" away.
• Possible faulty connections? I doubt this is an issue, all new Deutsch DT connectors on new harness. I'm yet to check the connections, will do over the weekend.
• Simply a faulty sensor? not that smart to test it so I have bought a new one.
• Biggest concern is the OE trigger wheel is only 1.25mm thick with what seems to be only 1.5mm teeth, these seem to be very small, and with passing the sensor at high RPM may not be picked up by the sensor. I'm tempted to change the wheel to something with teeth that have a wider cross section both ways so there is more of a pick up there. And/Or change to a better quality crank sensor (hall affect or reluctor?)

be great to hear your feed back

photo of my Clubman/Locost for reference

Socals14

Might want to put this in the Haltech sub-forum. I get this code from time to time, but I use a CAS.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

OEM crank sensor is not a Hall sensor. Not known for sync loss with OEM wheel. OEM and aftermarket ecu filter peaks of sine wave sensor output to create on/off like square wave Hall. OEM Early megasquirts had poor filtering. OEM sensor output weakens when hot. Cam angle sensor gets hotter so fades sooner. See if you can log raw voltage and/or adjust filtering. Also carry spare new sensors. Cam angle sensors die in the heat.

GR124

thanks Emilio for your response. What I have done (as I’m still not sure what caused the lose sync) New crank sensor, new deutsch connector, changed the OEM trigger wheel to a FM 36-2, and insulated the sensor from heat. Before you ask, yes the sensor face to trigger teeth is clear of insulation.
I have not done anything with the cam sensor. I do carry spares to the track.
Once we get back to the Dyno I’ll see if we can log the voltage with the Haltech, I’m not sure if it will do this.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Sync error is probably the cam sensor. They suck. Since you have an NB1 engine and dont need to seal oil in you can just swap to an aftermarket hall sensor and be done with it. If you have to stick with OEM you need a used factory one that doesn't have the diamond star logo on it. Part store ones and factory ones with the diamond star on it suck.