Cutting doors
 

So I have been searching but haven't found what I am looking for.

I am planning a roll cage install and am trying to find pictures of doors that are cut. This car is a daily driver and while I do want the safety of a cage on the track I dont want it in the way during my weekly commute. The cage will be custom built based off of the tall cage design by DGE Motorsports. I will loose the soft top but plan to keep a factory hardtop.

I have looked at some photos of a single diagonal bars but they are too close to the seat and block the access to the seat. Also, i already have a problem of my hand hitting my knee when driving and i would like the extra room. Here is the list of some of the ideas that I am thinking of.

1. Keep the window and track intact
2. Keep the upper door panel intact
3. Have a lower door panel made to cover the internals
4. Use 2" webbing to raise and hold the widow closed
5. Small NASCAR bars
6. Have the upper bar removable using something like this
Attachment 18691

So why a rollcage at all?

1. The speeds I am getting to on the track are higher than what I feel safe with the Hard Dog.
2. I also want to stiffen up the car.
3. My helmet dosen't have the 2" I need below the bar. (that is a whole other issue with seats and harnesses)
4.

Make sure you'll be able to roll the window down and be sure to keep space around the dead-pedal. I'm in the same boat as you but still resisting the cage.

The hand hitting the knee problem is easily solved by moving the steering wheel closer to the driver. Get an aftermarket wheel and use a spacer or get one with a deep dish to move it 2 to 4 inches back. Not only will the knee/thigh to hands on steering wheel interfearnce problem go away you will also gain much more precise control of the steering wheel by not having to reach so far.

FWIW I have a Canadian non air bag column and the steering wheel is 1” closer to the driver than the air bag version due to the column by itself.

Bob

You can run a window without channels or mechanisms. Two clips are all that is needed. Here's an example I had in mine at one point...
Attachment 193241

And how its held in place
Attachment 193242

^So simple, so perfect. :D

Machismo comes through with glory again.

I see DOHCPanther also wanted panels to cover lower portion...
Attachment 193239

But taking a step further to still look like stock metal...
Attachment 193240

So it just rests in there for driving... then lift the glass out for track time?

Yessir. Compression fit when the door is closed and doesn't go anywhere. Great for security and inclement weather. Lifts right out and goes back in seconds.

Interesting, this might push me over the top on deciding to gut the doors. Nice to know the lower and front seal keeps it secured enough for normal driving.

Spoolin2bars is running that setup as well. Remember to vacuum line all if the sharp edges. Run nascar bars, they are way easier to get in and out of the car than a normal double straight bar.

That was the plan. Will just be running a mini pillar up front to attach them to also... I have no desire for a full cage... as I drive to and from events.

I actually shipped a race car from ATL to Colorado on an open trailer with the same principal... using masonite for windows. :giggle: Buyer said it worked excellent- car was bone dry on the inside.

If I didnt have the bracket to hold the window up would it slide down into the door and be secure? I cant see the rear track in your picture and I dont know if the third guide is needed to keep the window on track to raise and lower it. My thought is with small NASCAR bars I could close the door and the bars would clear the glass in the door. Then raise the window with 2" webbing. Sort of like this.

Attachment 18716

This would solve the problem of where to put the glass when the window is open and it would let me close and open the window from the seat.

That upper panel is nice. Exactly like I planned.

DOHCP - I have two brackets per door. Only one is visible in the pic, but two are needed. Yes, without these - the glass will just slide right on down. These basically hold the window in its stock "UP" position.
Your idea to use webbing is fine - but is more than is really needed. Just my opinion.
I'm always eager to see solutions to problems out there. There really is no "only way" to do something in this game. That's why I keep playin'.
I have some old T-top sleeves that I just put the windows in when not in use. They can be stored in the trunk, left at paddock w/ gear, or just left at home all together.
Keep us posted with what you come up with.

Here is another pic of what I am thinking.

Cut along these lines and add the strap here.
Attachment 18717

Then make a panel like this to seal it up.
Attachment 18718

I just dont know if the window will stay on track or if there will be enough room.

Gotcha... just make the webbing like a belt with a hole for a stop at the highest point for raised window. Snaps or caribeaner type setup. It will need some resistance to keep the window from falling back down.
***Edit - and with some NASCAR style door bars, the window isn't going to want be down anyways when door is shut. Depends on how much intrusion into the door they have. Just a thought.

Wow quick reply, cool then I think I can make this work. It is important to be able to function the window daily. I have to come in the main gate at post so opening the door is a pain. Also I would like to be able to raise and lower it in case of rain or for the drive thru windows.

Yep - I don't have that luxury. All or nothing :giggle:

Yes the strap will be secured with either some industrial snaps like used on a tonneu cover or 2" military style velcro.

The bars would be more like these. They should give me room to work.

https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....1&postcount=37

But I am think about having this area removable.

Attachment 18719

Anyone have any better ideas?

So the door wont close with the glass in the down position? Well with large bars anyway?

Shit got to go eat midnight chow is going to close. Fuckin 24 hour war but 9 to 5 support.

I want more pictures of this interior, including the door. What was done to it? That is all.

Oh, basically just welded small holes and a few fiberglass panels made to cover bigger spans. Then Rhino lined, and then painted white. Simple, but time consuming.

Couldn't you just make the clips easily removable with some pins or something,then a small side track to keep the window secure when it's down. Then you could push it up and down by hand then pop the clips back on to keep it up and take them off to have it down?

Machismo that is just what i was looking for. glass for on-trailer and hotels, no glass when driving. clean.

do you know what your door weighs now?

Car weighed in at 2,061 lbs. at a Miata Challenge on the scales without me in it and one more door to complete. They are light, but I don't know their weights.

I don't have many shots of the interior as requested as it being rehashed for its 4th makeover. It is still a 15 ft. car, any closer and it still looks pretty rough. You know the drill.
One of the door and window clip in question -
Dash, crash pad, and bolsters are covered in "feaux" Alcantara.
***Edit*** I guess it is time to start a build thread. ;)

I zip tie my windows into place when trailer or driving in rain conditions (if they allow it)

Zip ties FTW!

oh thats right, you did a writeup on that which i had forgotten about. i haven't looked at the mechanism, are the windows secure enough to go on-track? if so, also sounds reasonably secure for hotel parking lot. i like my aim dash, would like to keep it.

muchas graz

/\ I would think so. Atleast slow them down, I mean it is just glass. But they won't know the difference, as it looks like any other Miata sitting there with the window up. ;)

I rode in a NB at midohio. It was fully caged and as far as I know was running all spec miata parts. He had those windows with the hooks. He told me though that it was only for trailering not for driving because the windows would break on the metal hooks from bumps and things. Anybody try a lexan version at all? something that is the same shape/mold as a stock window and then rivet it to the door or something? The other thing I worry about with a full cage in a street car besides the added attention is the halo bars hitting my melon. Helmets only? I dont think a ton of padding would help much less remove room from my 6'1" frame.

/\ Then let's hope he doesn't doesn't hit any bumps when its on the trailer. The compression fit that is created does not allow the window to freely move when the door is closed. I've been driving with this setup for nearly two years and have yet to have a problem. (Knocks on wood)
Clear tubing from the hardware store slipped over the "L" solves that.

Thought about using Lexan when I did the rear HT window, but there is a convex curve that needs to be there to put compression for when the door is closed. The windows are not flat. A piece of round rod used as a frame bent to shape and tabs for rivets is the solution there. Too much work for what it really is at that point. I'm not drag racing here, and windows are only for inclement weather for my purpose.

Full cage = race and Roll bar w/ door bars = street. Take your pick... I've since uninstalled the cage and installed the latter for street purposes. Yes, full cage for street is not the best of ideas.

yeah but the windshield crushing is scary too...I've come to terms with the fact that i'll probably never rock a full caged miata. If anything I'll pick one up on the cheap with a windshield removed and a big rollbar/door bars etc added in. then I can be tall and roll over and still live.

Here is what I did, if I had my car I would take a picture of how the window is held in. But its getting the cage installed. No brackets holding mine up. I did it a little different. But the same concept, the lift out and can be put back in in a few seconds. When the door is closed its nice and solid against the rubber seals on the hard top. The window is not in for this picture but it is all I have, tomorrow I take my seat down for mounting so I will snap some more pics.

-Ryan

It'd be cool to get the stringy thing in there to open the doors F40 style. i'm sure people have done it. I just wish that someone made formed lexan replacements somewhere.

that's bullshit about the windows breaking if you drive with those tabs. i have thousands of miles on mine without problem. and to hold my windows when they are out i use my mazdaspeed floor mats. keeps the glass nice and safe.

/\ Exactly. :giggle:

haha I wasn't saying that you were lying. I just was repeating what he told me. I'm not even sure if he really tried with running the windows on the street other than the trailer.

For what it is worth; I took a stock window and screwed a sheet of .060 plastic to the bottom and dropped it in so the plastic bowed to the outside skin of the door and rested on the bottom. Adjusted the final height by trimming the bottom of the plastic sheet. Pull out the whole thing when you get to the track. Sorry, no pics, car was sold.

No worries man... ;)