TimM

I'll jump in here. I run a 5 year old FMII with "all" the weak points addressed, and am still not as reliable as an upgraded MSM setup (though I hope I'm getting there). For track days & TT's my advice is this - the more factory parts you use, the more reliable the car will be. In my experience, all of the aftermarket stuff is developed on you, the customers, back. Every iteration and improvement comes from failures in the field: SS vs. rubber turbo lines - check. Downpipe clamp to keep turbo from shearing studs - check. Inconel vs. pot metal studs - check. The list goes on. The customers are doing the R&D for the aftermarket, this includes engine management too.

Granted, 95% of the market doesn't race or do track days, so the shops have had no real demand to create more reliable/expensive kits until recently. Thankfully, they're starting to pay attention to us struggling to keep these things together in the field.

DOHCPanther

Consider your goal carefully. If you are looking at the 2554 / 2560 then you could get extra power without a huge expense. Looking for some used kits shooting for the 200-250 range could be done for a few grand. Those turbos wont get you to the power range that require engines, transmissions and rear ends. If you want to make power over 300 then consider what the others here warned. It gets expensive. At that point the V8 starts to make since but it is a lump sum payment where you wont be able to do a little here and there.

I am stuck at the point where I need to address the transmission and engine before I can turn up the boost. I am running 10 psi on a system that can support well over 300. So even though I spent 7K on parts I still need to spend 4-5K more to be able to reliably play with the 3071R. Hustler warned me about this and suggested the V8 route but I cant take the car off the road for the down time and I don't have a lump of cash in the bank to do it all at one time.

Some say that once the car is turbo it looses its feel. I don't really agree with that. What happens is that you can no longer drive it on the street at nine tenths like you could with 100hp. With the turbo it quickly reaches speeds that will get you in trouble and if the suspension is done the only place you can extract the nine tenths experience is at the track.

I enjoy mine. Had it 8 years now and 2 of them turbo. It is still as good as it was and now turbo I think better. I just need another 10K and.....

Oh yea, still A/C, still daily driver and still able to drive 6 hours to VIR, race all weekend and then drive home pulling down 30mpg.

jasonb

looks that there doesn't seem to be any free lunches in search of the elusive reliable turbo miata. this particular quote interested me because it makes me feel a little bit less of a freak for having a sr20det miata. engine swap or no, you are going to have to build each part of the drivetrain in turn.

Trackwhore

Keep your car N/A and just learn how to drive it as fast as it can go.

I see a lot of people throw power at cars to make up for shitty driving, but it's almost like running before you walk.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I've changed my tune. After the baller suspension, I'll keep the turbo. Giant killer mode is awesome.

Mine is and has been dead-nuts reliable, but yes...you have to pay for it. Then, after you pay for it, you have to back the power down because any and everything is a wear item. 250whp is fast btw, very fast.


Follow my build thread, it tells a story. Savington and I broke a lot of parts to get reliable cars; the prudent forum member learns from our financial hardships.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

what suspension did you go with?