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Old 01-16-2015, 12:05 AM   #1
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Default From garage queen to time trial dream - '92 TTD build

Well hopefully my driving skills are better than my poetry skills!

I introduced myself here, but I have a '92 Miata that I am planning to build for NASA Time Trial.

One thing that I didn't mention is that I want to keep the car street legal and reasonably comfortable. Here in Houston that means the air conditioning has to stay and, with a dyno reclass, I will probably need to carry enough weight to keep the full interior.

The first step is to make the car safe and reliable for the track. It is low mileage, about 35K, but old of course.

Pre-track maintenance

1. Replace all fluids - what are the recommended synthetics now days for the transmission and rear diff? I have the VLSD by the way. I did like Redline on the Camaro.

2. Replace all belts and hoses, including the timing belt. Are there better than factory recommendations for these?

3. Replace brake fluid and pads. I am a Castrol SRF fan (set it and forget it!) and although I think that I could nurse the stock compound pads through a track day or two, I am afraid of the age. Will almost certainly go with Carbotech so that I can swap street pads back in if I have a couple of months between events (see the street legal comment above).

4. What am I overlooking?

Pre-track upgrades

Before the first track day I plan the following hardware upgrades:

1. Aluminum radiator - I want to stay with one of the thinner ones to keep the weight off the nose because of the a/c. I would also like one with a completely stock inlet and outlet because of the coolant reroute.

2. Coolant reroute - the full blown versions like 949racing seem like too much work to me, so I will wait until I have overheating problems to go to that. I found and ordered the racer coolant reroute kit from Bell Engineering and will hope that is enough. Besides, it is Time Trial, one lap is enough, right?

3. Braided brake lines - just good insurance because I never felt the difference when I put them on my 2007 Mustang. Maybe it has something to do with sliding calipers and or that the calipers on the Mustang possibly flexed.

Actual build

I will go into more detail later as all of the TTD cars in Texas seem to have disappeared this year. So my plan of 150-160rwhp and a race weight of 2380lbs or so has changed.

I am not sure whether to go up to TTC with more hp or down to TTE with more weight. There are about 8 TTE cars signed up for MSR Houston this weekend. Maybe I can get the car down to 140rwhp with a restrictor.

- Wayne

Edit to add: I know, search nOOb and I will, but if there are definite forum #1's I wouldn't mind if someone answered here.

Last edited by HoustonNW; 01-16-2015 at 12:20 AM. Reason: added disclaimer
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:17 AM   #2
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And since it seems that pictures are a good idea in build threads, here are a couple:


2007 Mustang GT that got me started



(Those magnetic numbers were great until one flew off at about 110!)


1998 CMC Camaro



(I think the white color and those BBS wheels are what let a Ford guy since high school buy a Chebbie!)

1992 Miata c-package



(Poor thing, sitting all those years in the garage, doesn't know what is about to happen!)

- Wayne
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From garage queen to time trial dream - '92 TTD build-twsmar20082.jpg   From garage queen to time trial dream - '92 TTD build-dsc_3444-1_zpse0dddeae.jpg   From garage queen to time trial dream - '92 TTD build-miata_zps72eed27d.jpg  
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:34 AM   #3
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Welcome Wayne!
Coming from those past cars, when you get the braking system sorted and you're on a set of stickies this car is going to blow your mind in the braking zones.

Here are some notes:

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
Well hopefully my driving skills are better than my poetry skills!
None of us are great poets, but after a few drinks we sure think we are... works the same for driving! No, wait...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
Pre-track maintenance

1. Replace all fluids - what are the recommended synthetics now days for the transmission and rear diff? I have the VLSD by the way. I did like Redline on the Camaro.
No Redline. Yes Amsoil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
2. Replace all belts and hoses, including the timing belt. Are there better than factory recommendations for these?
Gates Racing timing belt is good.
If you are going to keep your power steering, consider fire sleeve on the lines. Most track cars yank the PS, and a burst line is a common cause of on-track fires (for all cars, not miata specific)

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
3. Replace brake fluid and pads. I am a Castrol SRF fan (set it and forget it!) and although I think that I could nurse the stock compound pads through a track day or two, I am afraid of the age. Will almost certainly go with Carbotech so that I can swap street pads back in if I have a couple of months between events (see the street legal comment above).
Stock pads won't last a day. Carbotech XP10/12, Hawk DTC-60, PFC 01... Be aware that Carbotechs are very sensitive to transfer layers on the rotor, so you need a set of dedicated rotors to go with the pads if you're swapping between track/street use. I did this for a while, but later switched to the Hawks which are not sensitive to this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
4. What am I overlooking?
Safety items

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
Before the first track day I plan the following hardware upgrades:

1. Aluminum radiator - I want to stay with one of the thinner ones to keep the weight off the nose because of the a/c. I would also like one with a completely stock inlet and outlet because of the coolant reroute.

2. Coolant reroute - the full blown versions like 949racing seem like too much work to me, so I will wait until I have overheating problems to go to that. I found and ordered the racer coolant reroute kit from Bell Engineering and will hope that is enough. Besides, it is Time Trial, one lap is enough, right?

3. Braided brake lines - just good insurance because I never felt the difference when I put them on my 2007 Mustang. Maybe it has something to do with sliding calipers and or that the calipers on the Mustang possibly flexed.
Sounds about right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW
I am not sure whether to go up to TTC with more hp or down to TTE with more weight. There are about 8 TTE cars signed up for MSR Houston this weekend. Maybe I can get the car down to 140rwhp with a restrictor.
I personally choose the class that allows more freedom in changes to the car and more speed. However, the sensible approach is to go down a class rather than up, so that the budget stays manageable instead of doubling

-Ryan
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Old 01-16-2015, 02:04 AM   #4
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I would start out with TTE. It is very easy and not very expensive to get the car to a power and weight that is competitive in E. Getting the car finished so that you can get plenty of seat time should be priority number 1, so don't go overboard with engine mods for 2015. Intake, exhaust, and ecu will easily get you to TTE power levels. Use 2015 to set up the suspension, scope out the local competition in E/D/C, and to become a better momentum driver, then start adding power next winter if you still think you need/want it.

We have some really useful threads here for TTE and TTD setups. Make sure you read through those before spending any money.
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Old 01-18-2015, 01:00 AM   #5
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All sounds like your well on the right track...only thing I would add is that coming from big cars with some power/torque the drive experience may not initially be very exciting....but out braking and cornering around those big cars is a LOT of fun!
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:27 AM   #6
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Is this guy getting trolled? No one has commented on the Begi RACER re-route yet?
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Old 01-18-2015, 04:36 AM   #7
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not by me, but I've never heard of the begi racer re route...presumed it was viable...?
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Old 01-18-2015, 10:55 AM   #8
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Old 05-27-2015, 05:12 PM   #9
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Default increased HP decision

I did my first track day in the Miata at a Chin Motorsports event at TWS. As I expected, it was a totally different driving experience from the CMC Camaro. There were a couple of corners that I just breathed on the brakes because I couldn't avoid slowing the car down too much if I got on them fully.

I have spent 100's of hours on this and other websites trying to decide the best way to increase HP for NASA Time Trial. I couldn't find the best thread to ask my question, so I will just throw it in here and hope for a few replies.

I would like to change the RWHP from 135 to 150 easily so that I can move between TTE and TTD as the number of entrants change:

1. 1.8 swap

Pros - lowest cost ($1500)
Cons - most work, cannot easily change RWHP

2. DIY turbo

Pros - low cost ($2000)
Cons - no fab skills, ECU required, no experience

3. FFS

Pros - easy install, pulley change for HP
Cons - expensive ($5000)

4. BEGI Shanghai-S

Pros - easy install, low cost ($2300)
Cons - not sure about HP change

There is no way I can justify the almost $3K difference between the FFS and BEGI system, so I think that I will have to go with the Shanghai-S.

Are their any alternatives that I missed? Am I missing something important in general?

Again, the goal is to run heavy with a dyno reclass to keep the car comfortable on the street.
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Old 05-27-2015, 05:25 PM   #10
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I would HIGHLY suggest not going forced induction anything for a max of 150hp.

Try a VVT swap and different ECU maps for the 15hp swing.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I would HIGHLY suggest not going forced induction anything for a max of 150hp.

Try a VVT swap and different ECU maps for the 15hp swing.
That's basically what a couple of other TTD Miatas that ran at the last NASA TWS are planning. Both have '99 engines with MegaSquirts making 137ish. They said they were planning on tuning down to 130 to make TTE.

I'm points based and still have enough to add an aftermarket ECU and stay in TTE, (when funds become available). You would have to keep a 1.6 to stay points based. You'd have to ask those with more knowledge if 150 is doable with a 1.6.
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:13 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I would HIGHLY suggest not going forced induction anything for a max of 150hp.

Try a VVT swap and different ECU maps for the 15hp swing.
Not to mention most components of the Shanghai kit are not what i would call "track worthy."
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Old 05-30-2015, 02:43 PM   #13
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Thanks for the replies. The 1.8 swap was by far my last choice because of the amount of work involved but I definitely need to look more into the VVT motors.
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Old 05-30-2015, 02:49 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW View Post
Thanks for the replies. The 1.8 swap was by far my last choice because of the amount of work involved but I definitely need to look more into the VVT motors.

1.8 swap is undoubtably less work than installing a Begi kit.
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonNW View Post
And since it seems that pictures are a good idea in build threads, here are a couple:


2007 Mustang GT that got me started



(Those magnetic numbers were great until one flew off at about 110!)


1998 CMC Camaro



(I think the white color and those BBS wheels are what let a Ford guy since high school buy a Chebbie!)

1992 Miata c-package



(Poor thing, sitting all those years in the garage, doesn't know what is about to happen!)

- Wayne

Don't stress having power do suspension wheels and tires and some safety things and get some seat time. Once you can get around 2.02s at TWS or 1.51's at MSRH then start modding more to fit the class you want to play in.

Last edited by t2couger; 06-01-2015 at 06:51 PM.
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