Garage Vary CF hood installed- pics
#1
Garage Vary CF hood installed- pics
Picked this up from the painter today. Left the bits of exposed carbon fiber to thrill both teenagers and Miata-nuts alike. Truth is, the car will usually have the stock hood in place, but for track days this one should provide superior cooling. New hood pins are on order and I'm picking up the hardtop tomorrow- they still have to re-install the rear glass after painting.
#5
I have not. This is prep for the 1st track day with this car in October. I can say that the car does not have a cooling issue currently and I've got a stock radiator, A/C, intercooler and minimal ducting. Not sure why...
But I've got the GV hood and have ordered a FM crossflow and shrouds. That with an oil cooler will be installed prior to the track day so I'm hoping that not having cooling issues will continue.
I'd love to run a test- underhood, oil and coolant temps with all stock, just hood, just FM radiator etc but that seems like a LOT of work when I already know the FM radiator and vented hood should prevent any issues.
But I've got the GV hood and have ordered a FM crossflow and shrouds. That with an oil cooler will be installed prior to the track day so I'm hoping that not having cooling issues will continue.
I'd love to run a test- underhood, oil and coolant temps with all stock, just hood, just FM radiator etc but that seems like a LOT of work when I already know the FM radiator and vented hood should prevent any issues.
#8
Tomiboy, I saw a ~15* lower water temps on track by venting the center - front section of my stock hood (followed the under hood bracing and it almost looks like the Viper intake vent). About 2/3 the opening that Sean has. Very good ducting, Mishimoto 55mm, stock fans. I however have some kind of cooling issue, possibly weak water pump.
Read my temps with an OBDII scan gauge.
Are you thinking of venting yours?
#9
Carnut, Your car looks awesome! The reason I ask about the gauges is because I installed gauges and an FM crossflow prior to installing my Rotrex and saw 190* water temps on track or street, AC on or off. Once I installed an intercooler and Rotrex oil cooler I was at just under 210* on street and over 210* on track, BUT my factory gauge was still in the EXACT same spot. By the time it does move your temps are HIGH. With all the prep you are doing you'll probably be fine
Rick, yes I want to vent mine. I am pleasantly surprised you saw that noticeable decrease in temps! I was making templates in the garage tonite for the 3 openings just behind the radiator in the hood. When I put the templates on the hood I didn't like how all 3 looked, but the center one would look very good. What did you cover the opening with? Got a picture?
Rick, yes I want to vent mine. I am pleasantly surprised you saw that noticeable decrease in temps! I was making templates in the garage tonite for the 3 openings just behind the radiator in the hood. When I put the templates on the hood I didn't like how all 3 looked, but the center one would look very good. What did you cover the opening with? Got a picture?
#10
The rain would end up pouring right in front of the engine and behind the radiator. Don't see an issue with this but I'm 70% sure I'll run the stock hood everywhere but the track. The GV hood just feels a little too "rice" for me. Maybe I'll get used to it.
OBD2 giving you accurate temp readings? Using a Scangauge?
#12
Maybe true, but it's the massive vent that's throwing me over the edge. Needed, yes. But most people will look at this like the fake portholes you see along with giant rear wings...
The exposed CF... not many CF GV hoods out there. I do see your point. My painter would probably have a fit if I asked him to cover them up.
All things that actual track cars need, and people who want their regular street cars to look like race cars have. And that I hate.
The exposed CF... not many CF GV hoods out there. I do see your point. My painter would probably have a fit if I asked him to cover them up.
All things that actual track cars need, and people who want their regular street cars to look like race cars have. And that I hate.
#15
OBD2 temps came from an ELM327 w/ bluetooth "reader" and Torque on an andriod phone. Worked great and matched exactly what the car's ECU was seeing. Very close to the way my MS3 reads.
#16
Pix:
Ignore the gap at the front, hood was not latched
Close up of the vent. The orange peel is due to my rattle can krylon paint job of a previously green hood. Looks good from 5 feet.
#18
From experience, rain on the front of the engine isn't a good thing. Pulleys quickly get rust spots and the alternator does not like being wet. I have gotten caught in the rain a couple of times with my vented hood and I cringe each time it happens. Your call, but I actually carry a plastic piece and painter's tape to cover my vent if it looks like it's going to rain. (I also run the stock hood when not fighting Atlanta's summer time - 100* and 200% humidity).
OBD2 temps came from an ELM327 w/ bluetooth "reader" and Torque on an andriod phone. Worked great and matched exactly what the car's ECU was seeing. Very close to the way my MS3 reads.
OBD2 temps came from an ELM327 w/ bluetooth "reader" and Torque on an andriod phone. Worked great and matched exactly what the car's ECU was seeing. Very close to the way my MS3 reads.
#20
Thank Tomi.
Sean, I did consider that hood for a while, but couldn't come up with a good drain and agree that a pool of water is no good. :-)
rleete, the reason for the lip at the front is to create a low pressure zone and draw air out. much reading on MT.net indicates that the location of my vent is already a pretty low pressure zone and therefore no need for a lip.
Sean, I did consider that hood for a while, but couldn't come up with a good drain and agree that a pool of water is no good. :-)
rleete, the reason for the lip at the front is to create a low pressure zone and draw air out. much reading on MT.net indicates that the location of my vent is already a pretty low pressure zone and therefore no need for a lip.