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Happy to report that the heat shield worked like a champ and the tunnel had ZERO heat transfer into it, almost cold to touch in the cooler MRLS weather.
Bump because I'm 99% sure I found the OEM heat shield part number. Hopefully Moti can jump in and confirm.
BP4K-56-441F, a whopping $32 locally or $44 shipped brand new from a Mazda dealer on eBay.
Here's the shield I got from eBay. About 27" long, and the wide end would measure about 22" if flattened out. All the stamped ridges, indents, and edge contours match Moti's pictures as far as I can tell.
I love this. I pulled my engine yesterday for a rebuild and I was going to order the stuff that you stick on the sheetmetal. This looks much better (and is cheaper)
Nice find, Ryan!
This one might be even easier to work with if the dimensions are close enough.
Any idea about part number / cost?
Won't be needing it for my stuff, but if someone is just starting....
Mazda PN: N247-56-410A or N247-56-410B
Best we can tell the difference between the two part numbers is auto vs. manual and that just changes the hole for the shifter a bit.
List price is $244 and there's only one showing in the country. There will be more eventually, just not yet.
do you leave an air gap between the heat shield and the body? Or do you bolt it directly onto the body? I'm concerned about vibration and rattle noise in my daily driver. I had the OEM heat shields on my NA exhaust downpipe drive me nuts
do you leave an air gap between the heat shield and the body? Or do you bolt it directly onto the body? I'm concerned about vibration and rattle noise in my daily driver. I had the OEM heat shields on my NA exhaust downpipe drive me nuts
I was concerned about that too. I used some left over reflectix to create an air gap and some cushioning against rattles. I don't have the motor back in the car yet for results, but it seems to be noise free, and if temps get high enough behind the heat shield to melt it I probably have more problems than a weird smell.
Btw, these threads are fantastic, but if I keep reading them and trying to replicate, I'll never get my car finished to drive it.
Inspired by Moti's great idea in this thread. Picked up an ND tunnel heat shield from Mazda to play with. It arrives with an insulation layer stapled to the back side. The insulation can't be re-shaped so it's removed by pulling the staples out. Despite being tunnel-shaped there's still a good bit of shaping needed to fit it to an NA/NB as the ND's has large humps for cats that need to be hammered out:
There's also an insulated pad on the underside up against the top of the shield. You can see that in my pics earlier in this thread of the one installed in an ND. Drill out the aluminum rivets to remove that.
Here's my tunnel before adding this new shield. I already had one layer of shielding in the tunnel - this is the stuff with fiberglass center and reflective outer layers. I chose to leave this in the tunnel to help as insulation:
For the ND shield, altering the shape was done mostly with a mallet, using the tunnel as the mold of course. Excess is trimmed rather easily with just scissors:
Then installed with a ~1/4" air gap between the shield and the surface behind it:
Inspired by Moti's great idea in this thread. Picked up an ND tunnel heat shield from Mazda to play with. It arrives with an insulation layer stapled to the back side. The insulation can't be re-shaped so it's removed by pulling the staples out. Despite being tunnel-shaped there's still a good bit of shaping needed to fit it to an NA/NB as the ND's has large humps for cats that need to be hammered out
Wow, that looks great. Solid info, will be using this in the future.
I installed the one AFM mentioned in post #23 from a Mazda dealer. Very easy to do even with the engine/exhaust/transmission all in the car. And it works quite well. No more having to shield my right leg from the trans tunnel with my windshield visor! on long trips. Sorry I don't have pics but I don't have the car right now.
01-15-2017, 12:36 PM
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