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Old 02-06-2011, 01:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
In various racing classes (Autocross - Stock and C-Street Prepared) the use of the actual Racing Beat sway bar brace component is not allowed. However, the use of the brace kit hardware components that add bracing to the stock sway bar mounts are allowed. (We suggest you refer to your specific class regulations for current rules.) These components offer critical reinforcement to the stock sway bar mounts and provide a "cheap" form of insurance against possible breakage of the stock sway bar mounts.
Not sure why emilio isn't running the bar, as he's obviously not conforming to stock autocross class. Not that I know of at least.
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:43 AM   #22
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We use the brace hardware, the little blocks, on every car we build. We never use the transverse brace nor have discovered a need for it.
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:50 AM   #23
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Good to know. If it's not needed, it's just extra weight IMO. I was kind of wary looking at the stock sway bar mounts recently, and will be ordering the racing beat mount this week.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:44 PM   #24
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So who of the 1.25 tubular RB crew is using the .125 thick bar vs. the "RACE" .188 thick bar?
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:12 PM   #25
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Sell me your 1.6 RB tubular sway bar and get your RB race bar.
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Old 04-28-2012, 12:49 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Not sure why emilio isn't running the bar, as he's obviously not conforming to stock autocross class. Not that I know of at least.
The RB Blocks are Stock + CSP legal.

e: I'm running RB hallow front w/ blocks, 11mm stock rear.
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:10 PM   #27
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1) 1.25" RB hollow front, stock sport rear
2) 949Racing
3) RB blocks and beam
4) The RB bar and bracing were available locally, so I bought them. Not sure if the 1.25" is too thick for my use.
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:29 PM   #28
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Track car:
1) 1.6 hollow front RB bar, FM rear bar
2) 949 links
3) FM/AWR front mounts
4) I just realized the 1.6 front bar is shorter/stiffer, no wonder I didn't like the MSM rear as much on my track car.
Street car:
1) 1.8 hollow front RB bar, RB rear bar
2) stock links, lol
3) FM/AWR front mounts
4) Drift set-up, I am not kidding, lol. 600lb front springs, 400lb rear...the price was right.

I spent a lot of time with mid-corner push, I never knew the longer links I had from TDR were making the FSB hit the upper control arm.
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:51 PM   #29
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Okay since the Race thickness bar specifically says "not recommended for street use", I'll be skipping that.

Ordering the 1.125 tubular .125 thickness, with the blocks. And a pair of the super miata end links. This is for autocross and street use.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wittyworks View Post
Okay since the Race thickness bar specifically says "not recommended for street use", I'll be skipping that.

Ordering the 1.125 tubular .125 thickness, with the blocks. And a pair of the super miata end links. This is for autocross and street use.
Don't worry about what does and doesn't say "race" because a swaybar doesn't really affect ride quality. Two years ago people though we were crazy for putting 700/400lb springs on Miatas, today its standard practice.
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Old 04-28-2012, 06:39 PM   #31
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1) 1" Solid FM front, none rear
2) Stock, but have 949's on (back)order. Can't reach all the adjustment holes on the bar or corner weight the car without them. Definitely worth it
3) Haven't seen any need with current bar

It's nicely balanced at the moment, but I'd like to go with a stiffer front bar and add a bar in the rear.

EDIT: Checked out the FatCat worksheet. Thats very useful! Looks like I should be able to maintain the same balance I have now with the RB "race" front bar and 12mm rear bar.

Last edited by Handy Man; 04-29-2012 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:04 PM   #32
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1) Racing Beat 1.125" front / Racing Beat 16mm on soft
2) 949 end-links (current generation)
3) Racing Beat front brace hardware, + the beam itself
4) Check sway mounts to subframe for binding and shim if needed
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