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Old 04-09-2012, 03:46 PM   #21
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IMO, track cars over 300whp should consider diff and tranny coolers. Even SM guys see high diff temps. It's something I will get around to this year - we'll have a kit for ~$500 with a pump, cooler, filter, and the necessary fittings.
Is this still on the to-do list? Any ETA?
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:57 PM   #22
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Is this still on the to-do list? Any ETA?
I would guess based on everything else on TSE's to do list that do not expect one till at least towards the end of this year.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:09 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by soflarick View Post
Simple glue would insulate and not transfer heat. There's got to be some kind of heat transfer adhesive available to use. I've used small heat sinks on RAM chips that had a tape with heat transfer ability.
all CPU heatsinks are attached with a synthetic silver grease stuff. perhaps something like that, but with more adhesive power (or make some attachment points for the heatsink).

Although I agree that you will have better results with a pump/cooler setup.
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Old 04-09-2012, 04:09 PM   #24
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I would guess based on everything else on TSE's to do list that do not expect one till at least towards the end of this year.
Yeah, they do seem to stay busy.

End of this year is fine for me. I'm not planning the major power mods until then anyway.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:13 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
It's something I will get around to this year - we'll have a kit for ~$500 with a pump, cooler, filter, and the necessary fittings.
Is this still in development, or has the turbo kit absorbed all of TSE's R&D time?
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:15 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by skeeler View Post
Is this still in development, or has the turbo kit absorbed all of TSE's R&D time?
Still on my todo list, but not near the top. I'll get something put together this fall after NASA Nationals are over.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:43 AM   #27
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New Electric Oil Pump for Diff Cooler or Turbo Scavenge Conversion Unlike VDO | eBay

Some line, fittings, a cooler, relay, wiring, and a switch.... Or get fancy and run a coolant temp switch like the OEM miata fan switch.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:27 PM   #28
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I got to get to work on mine since the flat underbody is going to trap heat even if I litter the bottom with Naca ducts.

I coping the Porsche RSR race car with 2 side ducts for Trani and Oil cooler on each side of the radiator duct.
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:48 PM   #29
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What about making ducts for each Oil/Trani cooler then run piping from those to the Trackspeed Engineering Brake Ducts?
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Old 10-26-2014, 05:39 PM   #30
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Bump!

Anybody install a trans or diff cooler on their miata? It seems reasonable that cooling the transmission would improve reliability, this at least seems accepted as true in other applications (trucks towing, automatic transmissions).

I found this Boat Marine 12V Engine Oil Change Gear Pump 3 2 GPM Transfer Water Electric DC | eBay on ebay, it's rated at 3.2 GPM, and it's a gear driven oil pump. I've searched a lot, and it seems to be the biggest oil pump that's gear driven and electric and not 1000 dollars and weighs 40 lbs.

Doesn't seem like much flowrate to me? Even if you had a 100% effective oil cooler, you'd only be pumping about 3 gallons/minute of cool oil into a box that's having to handle a lot of power on a track. I would think you would want more flowrate, but maybe 3 is enough if your cooler is awesome?
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:31 PM   #31
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At 3 gallons per minute, that's 12x the capacity of the trans, per minute. I'd almost be concerned with not getting to proper operating temps
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:33 PM   #32
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That would be a great problem to have! I will have a temp sensor for the transmission fluid so I could easily control the pump based on temp, run it only when needed. I guess in theory it will for sure help cool the trans, and the question is "how much"?
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:23 PM   #33
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Is it rated for 300*F?
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:25 PM   #34
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It says it has bronze gears and a brass housing. From what I've read about other pumps rated at less flowrate, plastic = sucks, metal = high temps ok. Also if it comes on at say 220*F and keeps the oil below 230*F, then it won't "see" 300*F oil in theory.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:40 PM   #35
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Keeping the trans temp below 230 may be a tall order, it runs a lot hotter than most realize. All the more reason for some experimentation in this area though. Personally would prefer an electric pump rather than gear driven I think..

-Ryan
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:50 PM   #36
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I'd be worried about parts like seals, which are often constructed of plastic.
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Old 10-27-2014, 01:57 PM   #37
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Well so far it's the best pump I've found under 500 bucks, so I'll probably just buy it, hook it up, and report back whether it works or not and if it leaks or not. Unless someone finds a better one!

Ryan- I agree, I don't think pumping 3 GPM of cool oil into a box that's handing 300+ hp is going to be enough to keep it cool, but I'd love to be wrong. I guess either way I'll find out.

So lets talk about heat exchangers for this. Where would you put it? How big? Fan or no fan? What size lines? I mean we're going to be pumping gear oil, so I'm thinking minimum 1/2" hoses.

Probably have the pump close to the transmission, so you don't have a lot of restriction on the inlet side, then let the pump push the fluid around to a heat exchanger and back.
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:55 PM   #38
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That pump looks fine, ryan its an gear-rotor electric pump like the same type of pump as the oil pump but driven with an electric motor. Probably only has one seal from looking at it and its probably an oring so it should be fine.

Pat, pretty spot on on pump placement. For tranny connection, were you planning on drilling and tapping or using drain and fill holes already there? A banjo fitting would probably fit on the drain hole pretty easy and have a low profile.

Heat exchange wise. Does anyone have any temperature data at all? Just knowing the mass of fluid, the mass of aluminum and the mass of steel in the tranny, and the time it took to raise the tranny and fluid to x temperature you could figure out how much heat rejection capacity you need with the heat exchanger. Or you could just guess randomly and measure temps and compensate from there.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
That pump looks fine, ryan its an gear-rotor electric pump like the same type of pump as the oil pump but driven with an electric motor. Probably only has one seal from looking at it and its probably an oring so it should be fine.

Pat, pretty spot on on pump placement. For tranny connection, were you planning on drilling and tapping or using drain and fill holes already there? A banjo fitting would probably fit on the drain hole pretty easy and have a low profile.

Heat exchange wise. Does anyone have any temperature data at all? Just knowing the mass of fluid, the mass of aluminum and the mass of steel in the tranny, and the time it took to raise the tranny and fluid to x temperature you could figure out how much heat rejection capacity you need with the heat exchanger. Or you could just guess randomly and measure temps and compensate from there.
From my couple hours of google searching, my best guess is the people that have this data, and know what works/what doesn't are either not telling or simply not on the internet posting about it. I found almost nothing.

I'm figuring that too much cooling is never bad, so build it big and see what it does. If it's too big the pump won't run all the time, so no harm their.

I will do a little calculations at some point, just haven't yet. Working on wiring design for my car right now. But the CP of oil looks like it was ~1.7 kJ/kg*K, so much less than water.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:39 PM   #40
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Too big just ends up being more weight and more blockage of the already precious airflow through the mouth of the car.
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