Not sure if I'm going turbo or not, but the reroute is my first project this winter

 

Are you sure both fans are working properly? If you're not overheating at speed when air is being forced through the heat exchanges, then I'm thinking air isn't being sucked through at idle/low speed. It wouldn't be the first time fans have died and cause overheating.

 

As requested here is a thread for my personal situation so we don't overwhelm this thread.

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...2/#post1551691

 

So after reading all of this I need to ask for a little clarification.

I'm working on a 99-00 BP-4W.
I bought a head gasket at a local miata shop that runs SM, and claims they use the BP6 01-05 head gasket in all of their builds. They sold me this to use in the car I am putting together tonight.

Can anyone (slmhofy included) who has run this setup verify that it worked well enough as a street setup?

I'd hate to put it all together tonight just to have to pull out the headgasket when it starts overheating cylinder 1.

I understand the shop's logic, that forcing the water to go out through the rear of the head forces more cooling of the number 4 cylinder the problem on the previous generation, due to proximity to the firewall and the coolant neck up front, but is it so bad to run this combo that I will encounter detonation/accelerated wear issue down the road as a result of inadequate cooling of cylinders 1&2?

I need to get this done tonight, so I may be the guinea pig for this venture.

 

Spec Miatas are not allowed reroutes so this shops experience is likely limited. BP6D gasket works fine with rear exit reroute. BP4W/BP05 gasket works better.

 

The shop has pushed in the past for me to run a VVT head, so I assume their limited experience revolves around the use of this particular setup, SM VVT head, 01-05 HG, No Reroute.

I'm not running a re-route on this head, do I need the BP26 HG?

The water moving through the back of the head has to go past cylinders 1&2 to get out of the thermostat neck (if it doesn't exit through the heater core), it'll just be a bit hotter due to coming into contact with the rearward cylinders first.

I'm thinking this could work fine. Unless there's evidence to say otherwise.

If it works fine with the rear exit reroute then it should work at least as well, if not better, minus the reroute due to the fluid needing to flow past cylinders 1&2 in a system without a reroute, and not needing to do so if the thermostat had been moved to the back of the head.

Looks like I can keep moving forward.

Thank you Emilio!

 

After reading the first 25 pages or so I think I got most of the info I was looking for...
I am building a w2w track car from a 1990 that has a 2004 NA1.8vvt swap in it with a MS3.
It had a interesting cooling re-route done.. the front hose was tee'ed into the re-route hose.. bet you haven't seen that.
Had an aluminium rad with 2 fans and a shroud. The heater circuit was eliminated with the return line from the heater attached to the reroute fitting.
I wasn't happy with any of it so... before reading the post I was going to replace the head gasket with the older 1.8 gasket, and redo the reroute as the inline t-stat housing was welded together due to a leak.
I guess that's why the front housing was still in play as the t-stat was in there.
The aftermarket rad and fans set-up was in contact with the sway bar as well.
I relocated the rad mounts when I added upgraded sway bar mounts, deleted the shroud and one of the fans, I have replaced the coolant mixing fitting completely and added a single fitting for the lower rad hose,
The plan now is to complete the re-route with a rear t-stat housing and drill the t-stat out and leave the stock head gasket for now. I will cap the front of the block, add an oil filter relocate, an oil cooler. and hood vents. Do you guys see any glaring issues?

 

It's super easy to fix. That thermostat neck should be able to be removed from the head. The opening can then be plugged with a freeze plug available at any auto parts store. It's the same size diameter as the other freeze plugs in the head, and they make them out of zinc, a perfect match, just remove the neck and tap it a plug.

You may need to remove the plate behind the timing belt to get to the bolts holding the neck on, but it's worth it to fix the botch job.

Make sure you have a T-stat inline at the hose near the back of the head though.

 

Has anyone run the downflow CSF and compared it to the Supermiata crossflow?

https://supermiata.com/CSF-radiator-miata.aspx

If the conventional downflow really can work with a 300whp car in SoCal, it will certainly work for my really well ducted car with <300whp in Europe.

I've not run into any cooling issues with cheap components and basic recipe
- Large bonnet vents
- Reroute
- Thorough ducting sealed to bumper, even a twin scroll arrangement for IC
- Tubular bumper bar
- Basic 50mm IL Motorsports radiator

But I am thinking for the relatively low effort (no need to redo my over the rad intake pipework with a downflow), I am tempted by the CSF for a bit of extra headroom for Spa and Nurburgring next summer.

 

There's a reason we created the crossflow. If you want it from an independent 3rd party, here's some info from Summit:

https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...flow-radiators

 

Tran, I can attest to the capability of the crossflow vs cheaper options. It offered a noticeable improvement in the efficiency and effectiveness of engine cooling for my car.

My setup has similar points to yours:
- 300whp
- bonnet vents
- reroute
- ducting

I'm located in the south eastern area of Australia, where ambient temps are typically somewhere between 15-35deg C.
Temps now with the Supermiata crossflow, are almost always a steady 85degC. (Target temps set by ECU controlled electric water pump / no traditional mechanical thermostat).

The cost was exorbitant to purchase and ship a fairly large part all the way from the USA, circa 4x the price of a generic aluminium ebay radiator that would work fine for most 'normal' cars.
But in the end, for me, it was worth it.

 

I know this is an older thread but it seem to have a ton of good information in it.

Does anyone have the code/year for the VVT heads. I own 3 and I'm trying to understand what year they are from.
BP-6D-1-2, BP-6D-3-2, BP-6D-1-1.

Thank you in advance.

Max

 

No idea, sorry.

But wouldn't this be better as its own thread? Doesn't have much to do with cooling systems

 

Is there any benefit to engine and/or underbonnet and/or cabin temps in adding an extra sideways bonnet vent behind the turbo and exhaust manifold?

 

Got a picture or an example? I don't quite get it.

 

I assume something like this is what you are asking about? I'm sure emilio would know more but I think it is a higher pressure zone near the rear of the hood on an NA so probably wouldn't be the best location for a vent.

 

So I've started to implement some of these things on my recently turbo'd track car and under street driving, I'm not sure if things are worse or what. Here's whats up:

• nb2 w/ 7psi efr 6258 roughly 200whp
• AC
• Large FMIC that covers 90+% of the opening
• Cobalt aftermarket radiator
• Single fan on the driver side only
• FM reroute
• oil cooler
• No undertray (trying to fix this but the stock one I have can't go back on due to the removal of the shroud for the FMIC install)
• Custom block off of the areas around the edges of FMIC in the front hole to force all air to go through it
• No hood vents
• FM 20psi coolant cap
• FM 185F thermostat
• 100% water with water wetter
• Turbo blanket

Do all of the changes recommended REQUIRE the hood venting when doing this in order for them to work properly? It seems we are sort of making a sealed container and without the hood vents the hot air has no where to go especially if I add back the undertray. I've setup my MS3 Pro to kick on the fan at 195 and shut off at 190 as well as disable the radiator fan over 40, 50 and now 70 as each time the fan not coming on would result in the AC completely not working and resulting coolant temps going from 190 to 195 up to 208 to 210- with the ac off and 220 with it on (but still blowing not cold air) while cruising at 60ish MPH on a 80+F degree day. I am wondering if I'm missing something and that's why I'm seeing such high temps during regular cruising. I'm afraid to bring it back to the track at this point.

EDIT: I understand these temps aren't dangerous but seem high for just standard street hot weather driving.

 

Yes. It's like a recipe for the dish that you would cook. Leave out one key ingredient and it doesn't work. It's not like a cumulative thing like you can pick and choose from a nine item list and say well I'm only going to get seven so I'll be mostly good.

Unless you're above 450whp, there is no reason to block that much of the rad with IC. With AC, you are going to need everything last item on our cooling to-do list.

If you haven't already, remove the plastic bumper support and cut the center section of the beam across the front of the car. Full sealed undertray, 4 hood vent, 95% distilled water + water wetter: profit.

 

Couple additional notes - make sure your IC is pushed back closer to the radiator rather than mounted right in the grille opening, if possible. This allows more air to get around it. You also mention that once you put the undertray back on it might be worse vs now, but that's incorrect - undertray in place is far better than with it off. But still, with that power and IC and AC you'll def need hood vents like Emilio said.

 

The intercooler is significantly less important to get air to than the radiator. Plan your airflow routing and ducting accordingly.

Single fan unless shrouded is going to be horrible for air conditioner use. You need one large fan and shroud or two smaller fans and shroud to make the air conditioner work when sitting still.