robertw

I don't think i'll have room for the stock fans. No to blanket, so I guess I need to improve the heat shielding around the turbo then, the FM kit shield doesn't protect the motor side, the powder coat on the vc is all wrinkled on that side lol.

fwman1

iTrader: (3)

Just a big thank you for the help this thread gave me. I had my car dyno tuned last week. The tuner (a nationally recognized expert on VW Audi cars including race cars) had only one compliment for my 2000 miata. He said that the cooling setup on the car was 'superb'. The car has a FM no-electronics kit, good ducting, reroute, hood vents and a Supermiata crossflow radiator.

So, thanks Emilio for the support you give the miata community both with your sharing of information, and development of superior products.

robertw

Trackspeed radiator is in, this thing is massive. Current setup, intercooler, 25 row setrab oil cooler, radiator, and a power steering cooler above the intercooler. I can feel the stock fan pulling air through the intercooler up front, so that's good. I have a drift event this Saturday, so that'll be the test to see if this radiator can keep the car cool hot lapping.

MetalMuffins

iTrader: (1)

Oh no, you used the "D" word on MT.net

Back on topic, it looks good, could be worth ducting the front as well if you still have issues with heat.

robertw

Drifting vs Grip on MT.net lol. I drive grip and drift, and I'm decent at both so I guess I might be safe on here haha.

I put some foam on either side of the radiator end tanks to help a little, but if I still have cooling issues, like you said ducting will be the next step.

robertw

Whelp, the car still overheats at the track. $600 well spent I guess lol. Time to vent the hood, better fan/shroud, ducting, and move the oil cooler to who knows where. Really thought just dropping in the trackspeed radiator would take care of my temp problems, track ambient temp was only 52 F......

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

If it only overheats in drifting, you are probably going to need some big Spal's running 100% D/C. Road course specific cars tend do be OK with only one small fan as they rely on good pressure differentials and axial flow. A drift car has neither.

codrus

If your car is overheating at 52F ambient, then there's something wrong. You shouldn't need vents, ducts, reroutes, etc at those kinds of ambients.

(Edit: when the car is pointed forwards, at least. Emilio's point about proper airflow when the car is sideways makes a lot of sense)

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

If you are sideways you might.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I mostly agree, however, if he's good at what he's doing, he should essentially be presenting high loads and boost to a motor that is getting similar airflow that it would sitting at rest in a garage.

That said, it's not like the "runs" are 20 minutes long and his capacity should be huge with that setup.

I'm undecided, but i know my car would likely eventually overheat on a dyno with no fan in front of it if i sat there and railed through some gears for 10-20 minutes.

robertw

It's a 1.3 mile course, I enter turn one sideways (as sideways as miatas can get) at around 80mph, then I probably average around 50-60mph the rest of the time on the track, mix of sideways and straight driving. I'm out there for 20-30 min hot lapping during a session. I have a reroute, 25 row setrab oil cooler, track speed rad, factory under tray, water wetter 60/40 distilled water / coolant mixture, one stock fan, and it was raining all day. I'm a little frustrated to say the least.

For reference this is how I typically drive the track. Not a ton of angle, I don't have an angle kit. The car should be getting enough air into the rad.

Track in question, awesome place btw.
http://www.canaanmotorclub.com/

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Overheating at 52F indicates something else is going wrong.

robertw

I'll be doing a compression and leak down test when I get a chance. I have a few weeks before the next event.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

How are you burping the coolant?

robertw

One of those tall yellow funnels with a radiator cap on them, something like this.

Ran the car flat till the t stat opened up, coolant went down, added my mixture, bubbles out, more coolant in etc. Then did the same thing with the front of the car up in the air, the back of the car on the ground, and got more air out of the system, added more coolant. Finally drove the car around to get it nice and warm, parked it, and added a tad bit more water to top it off.

robertw

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Art

.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

You are going to need a fan shroud and more than one stock fan's worth of flow, imo.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Ditto the recs for power supply. You will need a separate harness and relays. Stagger the temps they trigger at. Starting two big Spal's messes with system voltage which can play havoc with WBO2, Injector D/C, boost solenoids.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Out of curiosity, what does your FMIC look like? Is there a path for air to get around it to the radiator? Radiator airflow takes a huge hit if a FMIC is mounted so far forward that all the air entering the mouth has to go through it.

52F with rain and still running hot . . . that's pretty outrageous.