Holy $hit at $1800/door but if they're really 9.5 lbs each they're probably worth it considering the stock doors have to be like 50 lbs or more.

 

not really considering gutted stock doors are much less than 50 and probably no more than 15 lbs? I don't think anyone has weighted them but considering Moti took 80 lbs out of his NB doors, I would say they are in the ballpark of 15 lbs gutted.

 

I seriously doubt a steel door is only 5 lbs more than a carbon door.....at best 20-25 lbs. Anyone weighed their gutted steel doors?

 

Yep, here we go:
http://www.targamiata.com/tags.php?tag=weight%20loss

25 lbs with most of the metal still in place for a window crank, 14 lbs with maximum weight savings. The 14 lb door looks similar to moti's door. I think moti has a slight bit more metal on the bottom, but that stuff is light. I think Moti's door is probably no more than 2-3 lbs more.

We can meet in the somewhere in the middle and say 19 lbs for the average since most gutted doors don't have anything in the middle to allow for door bars.

 

Losing weight can be expensive, if they are saying that the Targa Miata doors are at 32 lbs and the carbon doors are 5 lbs than you have a savings of 54 lbs. But lets say you buy some FIA seats and they are $700 USD. So the factory seats are 34 lbs and the Racing Seats are 22 lbs you are shaving 24 lbs for $1400 USD.

Price to Weight Savings
I am going buy PRICE/SUBTRACTION OF WEIGHT

Seats 63
Doors 66
Hood 100
Trunk 58

Lower the Number is better

 

You are comparing an overweight gutted door with the carbon doors and an overweight FIA seat with factory seats.

You are being as optimistic as possible for the carbon doors, which are likely to get you the least amount of benefit.

a $700 fiberglass FIA seat will come in at 12-14 lbs, maybe 16 lbs with an aluminum mount.
Even the targa miata doors at 24lbs + 6 lbs for glass, will be under 32lbs (which you also need to add in the weight of the glass for the carbon doors).

 

Hey bro I heard you can just plaster a shyt lot of CF on top of the body and make a CF shell. Then, retrieve all the body panels and replace with your balled CF shell... you'll shave lots of weight and will be the fastest.

 

Wow, that really surprises me. Good to know!

It would be nice to see a comparison of a 1.8 + 6 speed.

 

:headscratch: The quoted numbers don't seem right. I've solo-lifted a 13BNA rotary keg (Equivalent to a Miata long block, no accessories, tranny or manifolds) before*, and I was nowhere near as strong as the quoted numbers claim.

In fact, I know a lot of rotary guys that have duo or even a few single wrestled the keg into the car. I don't see how it can possibly be that heavy. And yet, I know for a fact I have zero chance whatsoever to wrestle a bare Miata long block into the Miata...or even the larger RX7.

:headscratch: I don't know, but those numbers just don't seem right, unless the non-engine related stuff weighs a lot more than the Miata's.

*: Disclaimer, I was a lot younger then, and too broke to afford the proper tools at the time. I wouldn't do it now.

 

Nev's rotary build showed a weight loss somewhere between 75-90 lbs (I can't remember exactly, I think it was 86 lbs).

I think thats pretty significant considering its coming out of something that you normally can't get significant weight loss out of. Plus Rotarys center of gravity is lower, which has other difficult to quantify benefits.

 

What do you guys think of putting a MZR in a NA Miata?

 

Threads like this make me laugh.

"Hey guys I'm going to build a super awesome monster with full carbon fiber everything and NOS and tons of power and and and..............."

Sounds like the typical pimple faced ricer retard in a wal-mart parking lot trying to look cool in front of a fast car owner.

 

It's a bad idea.

IMO, putting an SR or a 13B into a Miata is a huge waste of time. Just build the 1.8L and turbocharge that. All of the motor mounts, trans mounts, etc. are all engineered for you. If you're going to go through all the hassle of an engine swap, do an LSx swap. It is the only engine that's worth the hassle.

 

What Sav said. And my money is where my mouth is.

If you want to do an LSx swap and keep the car near 2200 lbs then strip it to the bone, and use a T-5 instead of a T-56. The T-5 saves 70-80 lbs, but it is not nearly as durable as the T-56.

 

Thanks guys all I'm looking to do now is to sell my Z71 truck first, the 240sx and my dune buggy can stay where it is for now. I was running up the numbers last night and the 1.8 is going to be around $7k usd, so I will get the engine at the end of the season.

 

These are just questions, there is a chassis that is vary acceptable just like the S13 and S14 chassis, but I guess the swaps on the s13/s14 is more acceptable to better swaps than the NA/NB chassis. But yes I am asking as if I was in a parking lot asking a bunch of car people so questions. I am not some pimped faced ricer retard, I have had some semi fast cars, 1985 Camaro 500ci turbo, RB26 swapped 260z, 522hp Z32. I am just waiting to get out of this **** hole called Clovis NM when my second military contract is up then I'm going back to Tampa. But more to come on the build...

 

sav, if you don't mind i'll make a small edit: It is the only engine thats been proven to be worth the hassle.

reading MartinezA92's thread it seems there's room for a factory turbo motor option. mazda factory turbo seems the obvious choice. anything non mazda has a long way to go to account for the non-mazdaness deficit.

but if the LSx can do it, it can be done. f20c/sr20/13b has to be proven, until then its just talk.

 

Don't get me wrong, if you actually go through with it then power to you, and I'll be here cheering you on.

Its just that 99% of these kinds of threads usually end in OP just disappearing because they weren't even half serious or realistic when day dreaming about this uber kewl project of theirs.

Good luck.

 

Im taking a stab in the dark here. But do you think a lot of the weight is in the gearbox? I imagine a rx gearbox (which would probably vary in weight depending on model) would be stronger and heavier than a mx5/miata 5 speed.
But for this power you would most likely use a 1.8 mx5/miata motor with a 6 speed. I feel like you would need a comparison of these 2 motors/gbox on the same scales to get a good comparison.

Edit: Unmentioned benifit of a rotory: BRAP, BRAP, BRAP, BRAP.

 

Gearbox, much heavier turbos/manifolds, and a few other things I'd imagine, but I think you are definitely on the right track.

There's no way a rotary keg weighs as much as they say, I've handled rotary kegs, 1.6s, and 1.8s - even the 1.6s are way the ---- heavier than a rotary keg.